RIP Super Record Front Derailleur...
#1
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From: Pico Rivera, CA
Bikes: 1983 Basso Gap...2013 Colnago CX-1...2015 Bianchi Intenso
RIP Super Record Front Derailleur...
I spent some time today with the Giro build figuring out what to do next...what bar tape to use...what tires to buy...what color housing to choose.
As I fiddled with the front derailleur and noticing some grime and dirt on it I started cleaning and removing the limit screws. That was until i heard something snap. The limit screw broke off with half the screw still inside.
Another bonehead move I took it apart but couldn't get a clear path use needle nose pliers to attempt extracting the screw.
Well now its 20 minutes later and the screw is out but the threads are stripped and im pretty sure ive committed homocide. No longer does the derailleur have threads to hold new limit screws.
A question i have is if the front cage, bolts, screws and cage are of some value to others.
A moment of silence please........
Thank you.
As I fiddled with the front derailleur and noticing some grime and dirt on it I started cleaning and removing the limit screws. That was until i heard something snap. The limit screw broke off with half the screw still inside.

Another bonehead move I took it apart but couldn't get a clear path use needle nose pliers to attempt extracting the screw.
Well now its 20 minutes later and the screw is out but the threads are stripped and im pretty sure ive committed homocide. No longer does the derailleur have threads to hold new limit screws.
A question i have is if the front cage, bolts, screws and cage are of some value to others.
A moment of silence please........
Thank you.
#2
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Bikes: 1987 Trek 1500, 1989 Pinarello Montello, 1998 Trek 7000 MTB
Yes, a handy person could chase the threads and replace the screw or drill out
Yes, a handy person could chase the threads and replace the screw or drill out and use a larger screw. The body is somewhat sacrificial because the cage and arms come off without drilling out rivets so that’s still useable. These bikes are simple, don’t over complicate it. Need a good set of tools and well stocked hardware store near by or old school bike shop.
#3
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From: Pico Rivera, CA
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It does seem like it does all come apart easily but getting the threads redone or chased seems a bit pricey.
I always find it easier to replace a broken part than attempt to fix.
Nearest vintage bike shop is pretty far off and pricey to begin with. I may just buy another.
I always find it easier to replace a broken part than attempt to fix.
Nearest vintage bike shop is pretty far off and pricey to begin with. I may just buy another.
#5
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FWIW, you're not the only person around here that occasionally learns by breaking. Trust me on this.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#6
I spent some time today with the Giro build figuring out what to do next...what bar tape to use...what tires to buy...what color housing to choose.
As I fiddled with the front derailleur and noticing some grime and dirt on it I started cleaning and removing the limit screws. That was until i heard something snap. The limit screw broke off with half the screw still inside.
Another bonehead move I took it apart but couldn't get a clear path use needle nose pliers to attempt extracting the screw.
Well now its 20 minutes later and the screw is out but the threads are stripped and im pretty sure ive committed homocide. No longer does the derailleur have threads to hold new limit screws.
A question i have is if the front cage, bolts, screws and cage are of some value to others.
A moment of silence please........
Thank you.
As I fiddled with the front derailleur and noticing some grime and dirt on it I started cleaning and removing the limit screws. That was until i heard something snap. The limit screw broke off with half the screw still inside.

Another bonehead move I took it apart but couldn't get a clear path use needle nose pliers to attempt extracting the screw.
Well now its 20 minutes later and the screw is out but the threads are stripped and im pretty sure ive committed homocide. No longer does the derailleur have threads to hold new limit screws.
A question i have is if the front cage, bolts, screws and cage are of some value to others.
A moment of silence please........
Thank you.

DD
#7
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From: Pico Rivera, CA
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#8
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From: Pico Rivera, CA
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#12
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FWIW, you're not the only person around here that occasionally learns by breaking. Trust me on this.

Good advice accompanies this thought - always ensure that the threads are greased, more so when one is alloy and the other steel. Anyway, my boy's bike and it is not bad for a city junker, in my opinion...
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"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#14
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It's only aluminium
Use a lock nut and bolt of the same thread to set the hanger travel stop. If not enough space go for a different TPI thread or even imperial/Raleigh thread and cut a new thread in the Al body as you go to the sweet spot. It just means get the adjustment correct the first time you wrench it home.
#15
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The Super Record rear derailleur does have titanium upper and lower pivot bolts and a slightly different pulley cage than the Nuovo Record.
#16
Use a lock nut and bolt of the same thread to set the hanger travel stop. If not enough space go for a different TPI thread or even imperial/Raleigh thread and cut a new thread in the Al body as you go to the sweet spot. It just means get the adjustment correct the first time you wrench it home.
#17
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Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes
Yes. You have a stripped M 3 mm thread in Aluminium. A 1/8 imperial bolt should track down tight. If not a imperial tap will. Failing that a nut on both sides of the stripped housing will secure a M3 bolt at the correct depth for correct chain positioning.
What have you got to lose.
What have you got to lose.
#18
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Yes. You have a stripped M 3 mm thread in Aluminium. A 1/8 imperial bolt should track down tight. If not a imperial tap will. Failing that a nut on both sides of the stripped housing will secure a M3 bolt at the correct depth for correct chain positioning.
What have you got to lose.
What have you got to lose.
#19
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#20
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#21
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Bikes: '68 Raleigh Suberbe, '92 (German) Centurion Equipe, '85 Schwinn Peloton, 1983ish Zunow Road Racer project, '69 Squanch Super Tourer, 1980 Bianchi Super Corsa, '82 Austro-Daimler Vent Noir, '89 Miyata 914 project, 1982ish Bianchi Rallye
No, the only difference between the Record and Super Record front derailluers is that the arms of the Super Record were anodized black.
The Super Record rear derailleur does have titanium upper and lower pivot bolts and a slightly different pulley cage than the Nuovo Record.
The Super Record rear derailleur does have titanium upper and lower pivot bolts and a slightly different pulley cage than the Nuovo Record.
Pretty sure the SR adjusting screws are titanium.
Edit: Nope. Same steel part number, 774
Last edited by artclone; 09-14-18 at 02:29 PM.
#22
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#24
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#25
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From: Pico Rivera, CA
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Not sure why you have this rude attitude, but if you look now at Grand Bois' post you'll see what I saw, which explains what happened here.
Grand Bois must have corrected "rally" to "really" after you replied but before I read this thread.
In the future maybe assume people are being helpful, not stupid.
I didnt see his correction.






