Need help with finding Crank Bearings
#1
Thread Starter
FatTire
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Boulder, CO
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix & Turner Burner
Need help with finding Crank Bearings
Hi there vintage bike enthusiasts! I’m having a heck of a time finding crank bearings for this 1970s era Sears 3-Speed. It’s a ladies model made in Austria. The bearings are 1/4” balls and there’s 9 of them in the cage. There’s plenty available that meet the 1/4”x9 criteria but they’re way too small and other bearings sold for Sears 3 speeds are too big. I was hoping someone could give me a lead on a source for the bearings.






#3
Thread Starter
FatTire
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Boulder, CO
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix & Turner Burner
Also if anyone has a lead on a Tl3-S20 ballcup removal tool so I can fix the rear hub that’d also be greatly appreciated.
The bike was my girlfriends grandmothers and she’s got sentimental attachment to it. It needs a little TLC so she can safely ride around with our 9mo old son

The bike was my girlfriends grandmothers and she’s got sentimental attachment to it. It needs a little TLC so she can safely ride around with our 9mo old son

#4
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Berkeley CA
Bikes: 1981 Ron Cooper, 1974 Cinelli Speciale Corsa, 1975 Alex Singer, 2000 Gary Fisher Sugar 1, 1986 Miyata 710, 1982 Raleigh "International", 1985 Trek 720
I'm a little confused here. Are you saying that replacement cages are too small in diameter? If so, then just reuse the old cage and snap the new balls into it. Alternatively, dump the cage and just use loose balls. Stick them to the races with grease. If you use loose balls then you will probably use more than nine...just be sure to leave approximately the space of one ball...don't use too many balls by crowding them all together.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 109
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HI,
just pull a single bearing from your retained bearing holder, clean it thoroughly, and use your caliper to accurately it. Count the number of nalls in the holder and doble it. take away 1 of them so that 2(x) -1 = number of loose bearings. Use the best waterproof grease you can, something like "red" bearing grease which is tenacious holding onto metal parts.
As far as the tool, do you have a local bicycle co-op?
just pull a single bearing from your retained bearing holder, clean it thoroughly, and use your caliper to accurately it. Count the number of nalls in the holder and doble it. take away 1 of them so that 2(x) -1 = number of loose bearings. Use the best waterproof grease you can, something like "red" bearing grease which is tenacious holding onto metal parts.
As far as the tool, do you have a local bicycle co-op?
#6
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race

Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
No, no, no. Fill the cup with 11 bearings, no added space. This is how half the bikes out there did it, and is perfect for the dimensions of the Steyr Cups and spindle.
You won't find an original bike out there that was factory assembled (intentionally) with one ball missing.
And same for the Steyr headsets, but where the original bearing cages had about 14 evenly-spaced balls instead of a much better "full compliment" of balls filling the races.
You won't find an original bike out there that was factory assembled (intentionally) with one ball missing.
And same for the Steyr headsets, but where the original bearing cages had about 14 evenly-spaced balls instead of a much better "full compliment" of balls filling the races.
#7
Francophile

Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Seattle
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It’s not really “missing” one ball. The point is, you don’t want to put in so many balls that they all rub against each other when they roll. There must be a bit of space between them when assembled properly.
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#8
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-1977 Univega Grand Rally, S LTD, 1973 Sears Free Spirit 531, 197? FW Evans
Whenever I have replaced the cage with loose balls, it was pretty obvious when I had the correct amount of balls. With the balls neatly lined up around the cup there will be a small space left that is too small to fit one more ball.
#9
+1 I like to pack the cup with grease, lay the bearings in, then take the spindle and give a spin or two. This assures that the bearings are seated properly and makes any gap pretty obvious.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,449
Likes: 309
No, no, no. Fill the cup with 11 bearings, no added space. This is how half the bikes out there did it, and is perfect for the dimensions of the Steyr Cups and spindle.
You won't find an original bike out there that was factory assembled (intentionally) with one ball missing.
And same for the Steyr headsets, but where the original bearing cages had about 14 evenly-spaced balls instead of a much better "full compliment" of balls filling the races.
You won't find an original bike out there that was factory assembled (intentionally) with one ball missing.
And same for the Steyr headsets, but where the original bearing cages had about 14 evenly-spaced balls instead of a much better "full compliment" of balls filling the races.
#11
Thread Starter
FatTire
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Boulder, CO
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix & Turner Burner
I'm a little confused here. Are you saying that replacement cages are too small in diameter? If so, then just reuse the old cage and snap the new balls into it. Alternatively, dump the cage and just use loose balls. Stick them to the races with grease. If you use loose balls then you will probably use more than nine...just be sure to leave approximately the space of one ball...don't use too many balls by crowding them all together.
#13
Ditch the bearing cage, additional ball bearings is far better.







