Pedals without dust cap?
12-04-18 | 08:12 PM
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2018
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Pedals without dust cap?
I've got some old pedals from the 79 schwinn collegiate I am working on. I was going to give them an overhaul, but it appears that these are not serviceable? No dust cap, it looks like the entire riveted end cap is the dust cap? 
12-04-18 | 09:17 PM
#2
Old fart
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Probably not user-serviceable. I've opened up similar pedals and found the internals permanently swaged in place.
I'd just dribble some oil in and let it spread around and call it good.
I'd just dribble some oil in and let it spread around and call it good.
12-04-18 | 09:41 PM
#3
SE Wis
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
I use this on stuff like that. Gets in then sets up
https://www.northwoodstm.com/tuf-gel...oof-lubricant/
https://www.northwoodstm.com/tuf-gel...oof-lubricant/
12-04-18 | 10:48 PM
#4
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 78 Masi Criterium, 68 PX10, 2016 Mercian King of Mercia, Rivendell Clem Smith Jr
It was very common for low end pedals to not be serviceable. If anything ever went wrong, which was doubtful, you spent $5 on a new pair.
I agree with the above advice to simply dribble some oil in there. You could go nuts and try to flush them out with kerosene or something first I suppose, but I wouldn't bother.
I agree with the above advice to simply dribble some oil in there. You could go nuts and try to flush them out with kerosene or something first I suppose, but I wouldn't bother.
12-04-18 | 11:55 PM
#5
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As others have said, I lean the pedals against something with the threads pointed up, and then squirt some heavy oil around the opening, and let it run down to the non servicable bearings
could try shooting some aerosol white lithium grease down in there also
could try shooting some aerosol white lithium grease down in there also
12-05-18 | 02:27 AM
#6
Banned.
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Cambridge UK
Bikes: 1903 24 spd Sunbeam, 1927 Humber, 3 1930 Raleighs, 2 1940s Sunbeams, 2 1940s Raleighs, Rudge, 1950s Robin Hood, 1958 Claud Butler, 2 1973 Colnago Supers, Eddie Merckx, 2 1980 Holdsworth, EG Bates funny TT bike, another 6 or so 1990s bikes
Throw away the throwaway
Unless they have stood immobile, whilst rusting to that extent, the bearings and their racers will most likely be worn out. Any resurrection using oil and grease will probably crack the ball bearings during the first serious outing.
12-05-18 | 02:45 AM
#7
Mike J
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,587
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From: Jacksonville Florida
Bikes: 1975 Peugeot PX-50L, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1974 Peugeot PX-8
This mini-video shows the nuts that have to be removed.
12-05-18 | 03:20 PM
#9
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From: Alta California
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Another lubrication technique posted by a member for non-disassemblable pedals is to make a small hole in the end cap and use a grease gun with a nipple small enough for the hole to pump clean grease into the assembly from the outer end until clean grease begins to flow out between the spindle and body at the inner end.
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Another lubrication technique posted by a member for non-disassemblable pedals is to make a small hole in the end cap and use a grease gun with a nipple small enough for the hole to pump clean grease into the assembly from the outer end until clean grease begins to flow out between the spindle and body at the inner end.
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12-06-18 | 10:54 AM
#10
feros ferio
Joined: Jul 2000
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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I like the make-your-own-lubrication-hole and drill-out-the-rivets ideas, but if the pedals are old, just letting some oil settle into them should be adequate.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
12-07-18 | 09:29 AM
#11
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I decided to go the disassembly route, but found that the one end will also be difficult as the cup side is also assembled with a press on washer. Now I think I'll just try giving it a good cleaning and get some grease in there as best I can. 
12-07-18 | 10:08 AM
#12
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I always love it when I get to open up and tinker with "non-servicable" things as I get to say "OH YEAH?!,..SAYS WHO" in my mind while I explore its forbidden "secrets"......(Insert evil mad scientist laugh.......)!
12-07-18 | 02:32 PM
#14
Mike J
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,587
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From: Jacksonville Florida
Bikes: 1975 Peugeot PX-50L, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1974 Peugeot PX-8
12-07-18 | 02:52 PM
#16
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