First step in new project - rust removal
#1
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From: Great White North
Bikes: I have a few
First step paint then rust
I have almost all the components gathered for a restore of a 71' Jackson but the first step will be removing paint and rust. I did some light sanding to the heavier rust areas and was pleased to see that it was easily taken down to bare metal and the paint seems to come off fairly easily as well. I am considering a shallow tank and either using OA, evaporust, or even simply vinegar. If I use a chemical it will need to be outside but I am uncertain if the chemical will freeze or not. Vinegar could be used indoors in the basement but would it get the same results? Something that would remove the paint at the same time and leave the chrome work unharmed would be nice as the grooves around the lugs would be difficult to sand out. I will probably just work away in small areas with a chemical stripper but I am hoping for a easier solution.
Last edited by daviddavieboy; 12-27-18 at 03:10 PM. Reason: added information
#2
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From: PDX
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
I have almost all the components gathered for a restore of a 71' Jackson but the first step will be removing paint and rust. I did some light sanding to the heavier rust areas and was pleased to see that it was easily taken down to bare metal and the paint seems to come off fairly easily as well. I am considering a shallow tank and either using OA, evaporust, or even simply vinegar. If I use a chemical it will need to be outside but I am uncertain if the chemical will freeze or not. Vinegar could be used indoors in the basement but would it get the same results? Something that would remove the paint at the same time and leave the chrome work unharmed would be nice as the grooves around the lugs would be difficult to sand out. I will probably just work away in small areas with a chemical stripper but I am hoping for a easier solution.
#3
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From: The Le Grande HQ
Bikes: Gängl, Trek 938, Raleigh Professional, Paramount, Allez, Guerciotti, Specialized Stumpjumper, Trek 750, Miyata 1000 < Huffy
I need to do this to a project I just picked up. Fill it up w/ Evaporust, let it soak, then spot-treat external scrapes.
#4
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
I have only used EvopoRust on small parts. I am impressed with how well it works and the finish that it leaves behind. Much better than Oxalic Acid. OA will remove the rust. The problem is that it eats up some steel and leaves more pit marks, in my opinion, than Evaporust. I would start with Evaporust. Try it on small parts first. Then try the frame.
The 6 months ago, I cleaned up a rusty cassette. I ended up painting it to get a nicer finish. This time I used Evoporust and figured that the chemical rust removal would just save the work. When I cleaned the parts off I was impressed to see that I would not even have to paint them. I will need to get some oil onto the steel, because the rust will come back if I don't do something.
The 6 months ago, I cleaned up a rusty cassette. I ended up painting it to get a nicer finish. This time I used Evoporust and figured that the chemical rust removal would just save the work. When I cleaned the parts off I was impressed to see that I would not even have to paint them. I will need to get some oil onto the steel, because the rust will come back if I don't do something.
#5
You could try electrolysis -
Google "electrolytic rust removal" - Lots of info on it
I can testify that it works like a charm, and it will also usually remove paint, which OA does NOT.
It would need to be done in a ventilated space, as it produces hydrogen gas.
Google "electrolytic rust removal" - Lots of info on it
I can testify that it works like a charm, and it will also usually remove paint, which OA does NOT.
It would need to be done in a ventilated space, as it produces hydrogen gas.
#6
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From: Lancaster, Pa
Bikes: Cambodia bike,2012 Fuji Stratos...
Electrolysis works, I have used it for 2 full frames now. Be careful it will dull unprotected chrome and remove paint.
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72 Geoffery Butler, 72 Gugificatizion Witcomb, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 74 Raleigh GrandPrix dingle speed, 74 Raleigh international, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 85 Gazelle Primeur, 29rBMX, Surley Steamroller 650b
72 Geoffery Butler, 72 Gugificatizion Witcomb, 72 Raleigh Gran Sport SS, 74 Raleigh GrandPrix dingle speed, 74 Raleigh international, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 85 Gazelle Primeur, 29rBMX, Surley Steamroller 650b
#7
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From: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
For me, the first step in a restoration is to build the bike good enough so that I can ride it safely. I don't care about a transmission so shifting is a non issue. I only care about the bike's handling qualities. If satisfied that the bike rides and tracks well, then and only then, will I start a build...
The test ride build - no gear shifting just go and stop on the list of worries...


Once satisfied, I build the bike before attempting to address cosmetic concerns...

If everything is all good, I get it all ready for paint and art, confident in the fact that I know the frame/fork set to be true and good to go...

Final pics next summer when I get back to Canada.
The test ride build - no gear shifting just go and stop on the list of worries...


Once satisfied, I build the bike before attempting to address cosmetic concerns...

If everything is all good, I get it all ready for paint and art, confident in the fact that I know the frame/fork set to be true and good to go...

Final pics next summer when I get back to Canada.
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#8
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From: Great White North
Bikes: I have a few
I pretty much changed direction and didn't use any chemical stripping at all. I was quite paranoid about harming the chrome so I opted using a little heat and razor blades to strip the bike. on stubborn sections I softened the paint with a torch and then scraped the paint off. It turned out well IMO and I will treat the inside of the tubes with evaporust then prime/paint then use framesaver or similar.






#9
Mr. Anachronism


Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff
Looks like you did just fine. You can see how the areas meant for paint have a dull or scuffed surface.
I've had great success media-blasting chrome parts with baking soda. Walnut shells would probably also work well.
I've had great success media-blasting chrome parts with baking soda. Walnut shells would probably also work well.
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Last edited by Hudson308; 12-27-18 at 04:23 PM.
#10
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From: Whittier
Bikes: 1973 Colnago Super, Litespeed Classic , Pinarello Gavia TSX,Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra,Eddy Merckx EMX-5 , Eddy Merckx AXM , Vitus 979 KAS. Diamant SLX,60's Meteor , Giordana Gravel Bike mod
Those lugs look very familiar. I have an old Mondia with similar lugs.
#12
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From: Whittier
Bikes: 1973 Colnago Super, Litespeed Classic , Pinarello Gavia TSX,Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra,Eddy Merckx EMX-5 , Eddy Merckx AXM , Vitus 979 KAS. Diamant SLX,60's Meteor , Giordana Gravel Bike mod





