I'm thinking specifically about cups and cones. The pedals on my '52 Raleigh have so far been the rustiest part of the bike. The surfaces of the cups and cones have slight pitting, but they seem to be in remarkably good shape for a part that is 67 years old and doesn't seem to have been well maintained. There's some surface rust where the ball bearings don't roll, so I was thinking about putting everything in some Evaporust, but I didn't know if it would affect the surface negatively. I would have the same question about any chrome part with rust, (which, right now, I don't have any of, but I thought others may want to know).

Thanks


Cone, lock washer and nut from my 1952 pedals.

Evaporust will not harm aluminum or any plastic that I have experience with. I would suggest that you clean the parts with detergent before soaking, and use Evaporust in a relatively warm environment. I tried using it in a nearly freezing garage last winter and it took days to work effectively. Another note: You can extend its life by straining it through a coffee filter when it begins to turn blackish.

Evaporust is good stuff. It won't hurt chrome plated parts or steel in general, but I'm not sure what it would do to a black oxide coated steel part. I do know it eats off zinc plating on steel parts.

Thank you. I've trusted my cones to it. I thought I was going to buy the bike and simply ride it, but I think it's going to be weeks before I am actually on it. The bike mechanic said he had rebuilt most of the bearings, but I"m finding that not to be true, so I want to get through everything before I take it out on a longer ride. I have a cotter press on the way from Bikesmith, so the bottom bracket will be my next job.

I just keep hoping that I'm not going to come across anything that will halt me in my tracks, but so far so good.

It will remove any kind of 'surface treatment' (bluing/other oxide treatments) that is present on steel, but that's the only thing that you really need to worry about, ime. Don't drop a Regina Oro or the like in there

Check carefully how the Bikesmith press lines up on the drive-side cotter, talk to Mark Stonich about what to do if it does not line up well. Mine On my 1952 Rudge the drive side did not line up well, and two weeks later I'm still removing the old cotter from its inside - drilling and filing. I tried the press, then the hammer, then the drills. Finally the files, but there is more to do.

Is Frame Saver used to spare inside the tubing to inhibit rust?

The back residue is the carbon that was in the corroded steel. As the rust dissolves the carbon remains. It can be easily removed by flushing the part in water. Sometime wire brushing is required.

If it's not a cosmetic issue, the black residue will help prevent future rusting.

verktyg

From my experience, I've placed aluminum parts into Evaporust to remove rusted areas that have come into contact with steel components. But if I leave those aluminum parts for too long, say for several days, there's a noticeable dullness in the tarnish. My solution to that is to use fine steel wool with dishwashing liquid, and lightly rub the dull areas. After a while those areas return to their aluminum shine.

Evaporust works great on lightly rusted chrome. Much faster than vinegar, but still usually takes an overnight soak. Once chrome rusts, it won't be as rust resistant as it was originally, but liquid car wax does a good job of protecting it. I did come up with a way of restoring hard to replace parts that have that gray finish. I'm not sure what to call this finish. Bonderizing, galvanizing, parkerizing...something like that. If you soak these, they will turn rust red again quickly. With these parts, like this 1950s guide wheel, I don't soak in Evaporust. I leave the rust in place. In this photo, I'm burnishing in a dry lubricant called Action Magic with a match stick. I gave this wheel 2 coats. It closely resembles the original finish and holds up very well. The second photo is almost a year later and it shows no sign of red rust on the surface.

Thank you for that idea. I think I'll give it a try with my guide wheel. Things are almost together for my bike. I replaced the dynohub assembly that was shorting out with an assembly from a 1955 front dynohub I found on eBay for $22.50. That all works beautifully now. At this point, I'm just waiting for Santa Fe to warm up enough to finish my touchup spraypaint outside. My first coat didn't look as nice as I wanted, but then I reminded myself that I was spray painting on top of another not quite skillful coat of spray paint from the bike's past. I am aiming for functional but not tempting to thieves. I'm probably doing well on that ground.