Working on removing a stuck Campy bb insert on the chain ring side. Haven't pulled one apart before. Left side came apart fine, but right side seems seized. Want to be sure of the thread direction, I assume it's left hand thread, based on pics I've seen of other such inserts. I don't have a 'correct' bb tool yet, but I haven't heard any encouraging reviews about the Park HCW-4 BB tool for trying to get this off. Tempted to apply some heat but no so much as to melt the silver solder joints. Also may MacGyver some other method. Tempted to thread a bolt and nut through it and try with an impact gun - if the bracket is left hand thread then tightening the nut/bolt should be the right direction to loosen the insert.
Ideas? What bb tool would you recommends? If all else fails I may leave it in and proceed with the resto without removing it.

Any pics? Assuming a plastic insert is left hand because you've seen left hands is bad. I think you might have the wrong Park tool number, Park HCW-4 BB is for older cup and cone type BBs.

Plastic insert came out with a bit of wrangling...see pic. 1.416" Late 70's Paramount

70's Paramount

OH I see now, the insert was the plastic protector inside the BB shell. I though you had some sort of new BB with a threaded plastic cup.

OK first of all there is a reason this is called a fixed cup. Unless you are changing the BB you should try and just leave it in. Does the threading on the cup read 36x24 or 1.37x24? 1.37 is left hand thread and 36 is right hand.

To get that off you best bet is to get or make a fixed cup tool. You leave the spindle in and thread the tool into it to help hold the wrench in place. You may also need more leverage than you get with the stock tool, mine has about 3 to 3 1/2 foot piece of aluminium bar on it.





Ina pinch you can make on with a PVC pipe cap and bolt.

Campagnolo bottom bracket cups and cartridges are marked with the thread spec. What does yours show?

"1.37 x 24F" is English thread, and will be a left-hand thread on the drive side (clockwise to loosen).

"36 x 24F" is Italian thread, and will be a right hand thread on the drive side (counter-clockwise to loosen).

"35 x 1" is French thread, and will be a right hand thread on the drive side (counter-clockwise to loosen).

"35 x 1G" is Swiss thread, and will be a left-hand thread on the drive side (clockwise to loosen).

Thanks, I called it an insert, meaning the metal outer race that threads into the chain ring side of the BB. That plastic bearing spacer sleeve came out with a little wrangling and a needlenose, as it swelled into the openings of the bottom stays and is no longer concentric. I don't want to leave that outer race in if it will come out, as I am stripping this frame for either paint or powdercoat. I realize these bikes were built to be lightweight, but it seems they went overboard when it comes to the thinness of the paint. That brown stuff is the rust coming thru the paint. Other spots are bare metal, like under the top tube where the rear brake cable passes by. I doubt there's much if any primer under that white, and it seems like a flat white, to boot. Even under the headbadge it was flat white

On a related topic, does anyone know who the paint vendor was for Schwinn? Were there different paint vendors used on the two separate paint lines at Schwinn (electro-forged and fillet-brazed vs. Paramount)? Some of the colors seem the same on both lines but the Paramount line had some finishes not offered on the lesser priced bikes. I've seen cans of Schwinn touch up paint in cases from a company called Fix-All (still in business by the way), but this was enamel. Some of the better finishes I've seen resemble automotive finishes (ie: acrylic enamel with hardener, or lacquer...) and I'm thinking there has to be a paint chip book out there with the formulations for mixing these colors. These things exist in the automotive world today, even back into the 60's and beyond.

THANK YOU! 1.370 x 24 TPI...English left hand it is...

[MENTION=385493]72SuperSport[/MENTION]

On a related topic, does anyone know who the paint vendor was for Schwinn? Were there different paint vendors used on the two separate paint lines at Schwinn (electro-forged and fillet-brazed vs. Paramount)? Some of the colors seem the same on both lines but the Paramount line had some finishes not offered on the lesser priced bikes. I've seen cans of Schwinn touch up paint in cases from a company called Fix-All (still in business by the way), but this was enamel. Some of the better finishes I've seen resemble automotive finishes (ie: acrylic enamel with hardener, or lacquer...) and I'm thinking there has to be a paint chip book out there with the formulations for mixing these colors. These things exist in the automotive world today, even back into the 60's and beyond.[/QUOTE]

You might be able to find a Schwinn color chart, but they would still have to match it by scan and or computer. Any good paint shop can get pretty close now days, if they give you any funny looks find another it's not rocket science for a good shop. They can try and match what you have or you can pick from 1000's of chips they will have. We have a place that puts it in a 2 part spray can for about $35. Many here mix and match rattle can from HD with good results as well.

Also, we need pics of this Paramount in full or it didn't happen.

Me loves a Mitutoyo gauge.

It's a british cup (you can see 1.370 in the pic) so the fixed cup is LH thread (wrong way).

Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

Thanks everyone...pics to follow once it's finished...need to hunt down the correct decals...

Are you talking about the fixed cup of the bottom bracket? If so, why remove it? Replacing the bottom bracket or powder coating the frame?

Either re-paint or powder coat. Haven't dealt with a powder coater before so no idea how well they prep things to keep plastic out of threads, cable looms. May just paint it myself...the bottom cup is out, used a method a member sent me, and I have the proper tool for the reassembly coming in the mail.

Because it is the proper, correct, right thing to do. Service is incomplete and remiss without doing so, period.

The cup must be taken out so it will come out later when necessary.

Yeah, no thanks. I'll pass on removing the fixed cup when I overhaul a bike. Make sure it's tight in the frame, the race looks good (using a flashlight), and we have the greenlight to proceed...

Not on my watch, not ok to pass the buck if it's stuck.

It's an easy task, if your not comfortable with it, well then........

I make sure it's tight. I don't try to remove it. If you call that "stuck," so be it. The stays are also "stuck" to the seat tube.

Calling one of my comprehensive rebuilds "incomplete" or "remiss" because I leave the fixed cup in place is just ... [refrain]

Suffice to say your definition of comprehensive and mine differ. If it's stuck it will be tight, the difference is that if it is stuck, it should be unstuck so it doesn't get damaged later by someone who is not up to the task. As stewards of these pieces of history doing the right thing should go with the territory. Even if it's not stuck, a proper service includes cleaning and lubing the threads and correctly torquing the cup.

We've had this discussion before.