Help for Campy Record cable adjuster bolt
#1
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Help for Campy Record cable adjuster bolt
Ok...so in receiving a gruppo from overseas, I found that the cable adjuster bolt is not what I would like it to be...questions:
1. Does anyone have a suggested repair
2. If replacing, how do you take that rivet-y thing off and install a new one.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


1. Does anyone have a suggested repair
2. If replacing, how do you take that rivet-y thing off and install a new one.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


#2
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
The pressed-in nut is likely knurled and pressed tightly in place, so might not retain itself later if you were to press it out.
Look at the direction the cable tension applies to it, once it comes out it will probably not hold so well later!
The adjuster itself almost looks like the low-end pot-metal version, installed as a replacement. Verify by removing it and inspecting the threads for a casting seam. These are weak and unsightly as compared to the original part.
You can polish pot metal but it does not sustain a nice finish for long. The good ones are prized little pieces.
Possibly your adjuster is the good chromed steel one but has lost it's chrome?
Look at the direction the cable tension applies to it, once it comes out it will probably not hold so well later!
The adjuster itself almost looks like the low-end pot-metal version, installed as a replacement. Verify by removing it and inspecting the threads for a casting seam. These are weak and unsightly as compared to the original part.
You can polish pot metal but it does not sustain a nice finish for long. The good ones are prized little pieces.
Possibly your adjuster is the good chromed steel one but has lost it's chrome?
#3
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From: Goose Creek, SC
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The pressed-in nut is likely knurled and pressed tightly in place, so might not retain itself later if you were to press it out.
Look at the direction the cable tension applies to it, once it comes out it will probably not hold so well later!
The adjuster itself almost looks like the low-end pot-metal version, installed as a replacement. Verify by removing it and inspecting the threads for a casting seam. These are weak and unsightly as compared to the original part.
You can polish pot metal but it does not sustain a nice finish for long. The good ones are prized little pieces.
Possibly your adjuster is the good chromed steel one but has lost it's chrome?
Look at the direction the cable tension applies to it, once it comes out it will probably not hold so well later!
The adjuster itself almost looks like the low-end pot-metal version, installed as a replacement. Verify by removing it and inspecting the threads for a casting seam. These are weak and unsightly as compared to the original part.
You can polish pot metal but it does not sustain a nice finish for long. The good ones are prized little pieces.
Possibly your adjuster is the good chromed steel one but has lost it's chrome?
#4
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rivet vs adjusting bolt
The way i would remove it would be to saw it off. probably using a small hacksaw blade or jewelry blade. Look online for options unless you're in a big city. Can even wrap the blade end in tape to make a handle if you don't want to buy a holder. Maybe original threads are still ok... But if needed, re-tap the hole for proper adjusting screw, (which might require adding material depending on what was done to put existing piece in place.) Sorry for your discovery, amazing what people will use to "make do", and neglect to inform next buyer about... I try not to inspect bikes at night for this very reason.
#5
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
I would attempt to grab the adjuster with a Vice-Grip, using some inner tube to protect the part and to provide grip.
Then I would maintain high pulling force while turning the adjuster, hopefully with some of the threads engaging below where the (cast zinc?) threads are probably stripped off of the adjuster.
If this works, possibly some limited amount of adjuster travel can be exploited engaging a few remaining threads on the adjuster
The adjuster appears to have been screwed all the way in with the soft threads having sheared where they engage the nut, but seems there is some threading below the nut threads still holding the adjuster in.
Then I would maintain high pulling force while turning the adjuster, hopefully with some of the threads engaging below where the (cast zinc?) threads are probably stripped off of the adjuster.
If this works, possibly some limited amount of adjuster travel can be exploited engaging a few remaining threads on the adjuster
The adjuster appears to have been screwed all the way in with the soft threads having sheared where they engage the nut, but seems there is some threading below the nut threads still holding the adjuster in.
#6
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I would attempt to grab the adjuster with a Vice-Grip, using some inner tube to protect the part and to provide grip.
Then I would maintain high pulling force while turning the adjuster, hopefully with some of the threads engaging below where the (cast zinc?) threads are probably stripped off of the adjuster.
If this works, possibly some limited amount of adjuster travel can be exploited engaging a few remaining threads on the adjuster
The adjuster appears to have been screwed all the way in with the soft threads having sheared where they engage the nut, but seems there is some threading below the nut threads still holding the adjuster in.
Then I would maintain high pulling force while turning the adjuster, hopefully with some of the threads engaging below where the (cast zinc?) threads are probably stripped off of the adjuster.
If this works, possibly some limited amount of adjuster travel can be exploited engaging a few remaining threads on the adjuster
The adjuster appears to have been screwed all the way in with the soft threads having sheared where they engage the nut, but seems there is some threading below the nut threads still holding the adjuster in.
#7
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Nice of you to follow up, jdawg!
Hopefully the parts are serviceable. You were wise to put some penetrant in there to help get the parts apart without damage.
Hopefully the parts are serviceable. You were wise to put some penetrant in there to help get the parts apart without damage.
#8
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You were absolutely correct that someone tried to keep screwing it in and it stripped those parts of the threads. Might be able to use it if I start it higher when I install the cables. Otherwise, might have to pirate for a new adjuster. The pulleys are closing in on replacement so maybe a parts only find on ebay might do the trick.
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