Does the C&V community have a preferred clipless system?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 1,921
Does the C&V community have a preferred clipless system?
I ride mostly with toe clips and loose straps, which I have no big problems with other than my wide-ish feet not playing well with some pedals.
When I built my Ironman, I opted for Wellgo MG-5 platforms - an inexpensive experiment that has not been bad.
But, I do miss some foot retention. I am favoring two systems out of all the options I've seen, but am curious what some of you guys and gals have experienced. I am a complete rookie when it comes to clipless pedals - no experience.
Have you a preference? If so, why?
Of course, photographic evidence is very, very welcome.
Thank you in advance.
When I built my Ironman, I opted for Wellgo MG-5 platforms - an inexpensive experiment that has not been bad.
But, I do miss some foot retention. I am favoring two systems out of all the options I've seen, but am curious what some of you guys and gals have experienced. I am a complete rookie when it comes to clipless pedals - no experience.
Have you a preference? If so, why?
Of course, photographic evidence is very, very welcome.
Thank you in advance.
#2
Speedplay: +1
Badly in need of toe clips and straps on my recent C&V 73 Raleigh Competition.
Some shifting shenanigans and botched stoplight get-aways make the pedals roll over on me, and they've only got one good side.
On my road bike, I've used Speedplay for 3+ years now: double sided pedal makes entry easy, good retention (and exit), grease axle once a year( no other maintenance by me), good cleats, durable overall.
Pretty good "float", if you need that. A bit strange at first, dont notice it at all now.
Some shifting shenanigans and botched stoplight get-aways make the pedals roll over on me, and they've only got one good side.
On my road bike, I've used Speedplay for 3+ years now: double sided pedal makes entry easy, good retention (and exit), grease axle once a year( no other maintenance by me), good cleats, durable overall.
Pretty good "float", if you need that. A bit strange at first, dont notice it at all now.
#3
I use Speedplay. Mostly because they need no orientation. And while it doesn't matter much, Richard Byrne does have a wonderful Flick account of vintage components.

Umberto Dei 01 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Umberto Dei 01 by iabisdb, on Flickr
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 1,921
#7
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 550
Likes: 21
From: San Marcos, CA
Bikes: Too many, but sometimes not enough.
I don't mind toe clips and straps, but prefer walkable mountain bike cleats / pedals for longer rides. Lots of folks love Shimano SPD, but I've been pretty happy with MKS's version of the Time ATAC system their MKS US-B pedals. Currently, the pedals with cleats are available at clearance prices of $9.99 from Bikewagon.com. The key, and it's a big one is that you need to disassemble the pedals and swap the axles, left for right. Takes a 5mm Allen, and a 9mm socket.
Apparently, probably for patent reasons, the default MKS pedals are reversed from the ATAC system (they use a fixed front bar, with a spring loaded rear, opposite the real ATAC pedals.). Unfortunately, their ATAC clone cleats don't take that into account, making them almost impossible to clip into as delivered.
Once swapped, they're just like the ATAC pedals - easy to clip into, very secure, with a bit of float. None of the duck walking most road cleats force you to endure when you're off the bike.
Apparently, probably for patent reasons, the default MKS pedals are reversed from the ATAC system (they use a fixed front bar, with a spring loaded rear, opposite the real ATAC pedals.). Unfortunately, their ATAC clone cleats don't take that into account, making them almost impossible to clip into as delivered.
Once swapped, they're just like the ATAC pedals - easy to clip into, very secure, with a bit of float. None of the duck walking most road cleats force you to endure when you're off the bike.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 550
Likes: 21
From: San Marcos, CA
Bikes: Too many, but sometimes not enough.
I forgot to add, I've got a set of Speedplay pedals and cleats / shoes too. They're wonderful for actual riding, being comfortable and easy to clip into. I just can't get over how horrible they are to walk in. Clomping around the house, and out to the garage is almost enough to drive me bonkers. Any sort of mid ride stop, or heaven forbid walking up a hill is torture.
Maybe I could live with all that if walkable shoes and cleats rode any worse, or had any downsides, but I just don't see it.
Maybe I could live with all that if walkable shoes and cleats rode any worse, or had any downsides, but I just don't see it.
#10
#11
The Left Coast, USA
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,757
Likes: 25
Bikes: Bulls, Bianchi, Koga, Trek, Miyata
Another nod for classic SPDs because there are endless options. I prefer VP pedals; two sided, cheaper, nice springs. SPDs because I can use them on spin bikes and use light weight SPD mountain shoes because I can walk normally when off the bikes. Lots of SPD shoe options at different price points and my more substantial legit MTB shoes are also SPD.
__________________
There is more to life than simply increasing its speed. - Gandhi
There is more to life than simply increasing its speed. - Gandhi
#12
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,180
Likes: 5,313
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I need the benefits of the real C&V pedal systems though I often get there by other means. No-float. My knees not only want no float, they want my feet forcibly toed-in. The system developed probably around 1895 for racing works very well for me, rattrap style pedals and slotted cleats. I do use the modern Exustar cleat set up top mount on LOOK compatible 3-bolt shoes and use Shimano 600 semi-platform pedals and make big pick-up tabs but the concept and riding is super old-school.
I also use LOOK Delta compatibles (FORTE) and the LOOK or Wellgo black (no-float) cleats. Riding I see no difference between the two. The LOOK style offers un-cleating without having to remember to loosen the laces. Toeclips, straps and traditional cleats are FAR MORE secure pedaling fast downhill on a fix gear, something I do a lot.
I also use MTB SPDs for my gravel/geared winter/rain/city bike. For that I have to crank in absolute max rotation of the right cleat and a lot on the left to keep my knees happy. Also set the release to tight. They work but not ideal.
Needing no-float puts me in a minority. Also rules out a lot of pedal types. The good news is that it has freed up a lot of those Shimano 600s!
Ben
I also use LOOK Delta compatibles (FORTE) and the LOOK or Wellgo black (no-float) cleats. Riding I see no difference between the two. The LOOK style offers un-cleating without having to remember to loosen the laces. Toeclips, straps and traditional cleats are FAR MORE secure pedaling fast downhill on a fix gear, something I do a lot.
I also use MTB SPDs for my gravel/geared winter/rain/city bike. For that I have to crank in absolute max rotation of the right cleat and a lot on the left to keep my knees happy. Also set the release to tight. They work but not ideal.
Needing no-float puts me in a minority. Also rules out a lot of pedal types. The good news is that it has freed up a lot of those Shimano 600s!
Ben
#13
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,180
Likes: 5,313
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I forgot to add, I've got a set of Speedplay pedals and cleats / shoes too. They're wonderful for actual riding, being comfortable and easy to clip into. I just can't get over how horrible they are to walk in. Clomping around the house, and out to the garage is almost enough to drive me bonkers. Any sort of mid ride stop, or heaven forbid walking up a hill is torture.
Maybe I could live with all that if walkable shoes and cleats rode any worse, or had any downsides, but I just don't see it.
Maybe I could live with all that if walkable shoes and cleats rode any worse, or had any downsides, but I just don't see it.
#15
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,400
Likes: 8,319
From: Seattle area
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Look Deltas.
Why??? Nice wide platform. The earliest to 'grab' the market. The only true C&V roadie cleat; are the others even vintage yet? I don't follow component timelines.
edit: had Look release-able ski bindings before cycling shoe bindings. It just works. The compatibles work well, too - generally.
Why??? Nice wide platform. The earliest to 'grab' the market. The only true C&V roadie cleat; are the others even vintage yet? I don't follow component timelines.
edit: had Look release-able ski bindings before cycling shoe bindings. It just works. The compatibles work well, too - generally.
__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Last edited by Wildwood; 07-21-19 at 12:29 AM.
#16
Me duelen las nalgas

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13,519
Likes: 2,832
From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Look Delta and Shimano SPD-SL. The designs are pretty similar. Better than the toe clips and cleated Detto Pietros I used decades ago.
Look has more float, easier to clip in and out -- more positive snappy feel. Tricky to walk in. Feels like backward high heels.
Shimano is easier to walk in. Clipping in and out feels a bit mushy compared with the Look. Less float but still adequate. Better for halfway pedaling without clipping in -- the SPD-SL has little rubbery feet that grab the pedal.
I like the larger cleats and rigid sole shoes for better foot support. I get arch cramps and hotspots on the metatarsals unless everything is jussst-so.
Both cleats/pedals retain well. Occasionally I pull up on the pedal when standing to climb. Never pulled out of a pedal yet (and hope I never do -- that would be painful). Both are equally tricky to clip into. Usually takes me 2 or 3 tries to clip in. Some folks manage it the first time but I rarely do.
Most folks I ride with prefer Shimano SPD mountain biking type cleats/shoes. Easier to walk with, adequate foot retention. Some of them switch to SPD-SL or Look for races -- local crits, time trials.
I know a few folks who use other cleat/pedal systems, but they mostly seem to be into mountain biking.
Look has more float, easier to clip in and out -- more positive snappy feel. Tricky to walk in. Feels like backward high heels.
Shimano is easier to walk in. Clipping in and out feels a bit mushy compared with the Look. Less float but still adequate. Better for halfway pedaling without clipping in -- the SPD-SL has little rubbery feet that grab the pedal.
I like the larger cleats and rigid sole shoes for better foot support. I get arch cramps and hotspots on the metatarsals unless everything is jussst-so.
Both cleats/pedals retain well. Occasionally I pull up on the pedal when standing to climb. Never pulled out of a pedal yet (and hope I never do -- that would be painful). Both are equally tricky to clip into. Usually takes me 2 or 3 tries to clip in. Some folks manage it the first time but I rarely do.
Most folks I ride with prefer Shimano SPD mountain biking type cleats/shoes. Easier to walk with, adequate foot retention. Some of them switch to SPD-SL or Look for races -- local crits, time trials.
I know a few folks who use other cleat/pedal systems, but they mostly seem to be into mountain biking.
#17
Full Member

Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 497
Likes: 853
From: Weston-super-Mare, Somerset, UK
Bikes: Gitane Course, Paris Sport, Peugeot AO8, Peugeot Bretagne, Peugeot Premiere 85, Peugeot Premiere 86, Peugeot ANC Halfords Team Replica, Peugeot Festina Team Replica, Motobecane Grand Sport, Motobecane Super 15, Raleigh Pro Race, Raleigh Stratos, BSA
Look Delta for me, fitted to every one of my C&V bikes.
They look right on a C&V bike, they work very well, the pedals are cheap and easy to get hold of via eBay, and the aftermarket cleats are widely available, work as well as genuine Look cleats, and are very cheap.
And here's the photo - 1980s Gitane with 1980s Look pedals.
They look right on a C&V bike, they work very well, the pedals are cheap and easy to get hold of via eBay, and the aftermarket cleats are widely available, work as well as genuine Look cleats, and are very cheap.
And here's the photo - 1980s Gitane with 1980s Look pedals.
#18
Senior Member


Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,710
Likes: 2,084
From: Sussex County, Delaware
For me it is dual sided spd, one side clip-in, the other platform. I do have a pair of shoes in which the cleats are not recessed. They have the 2 holes for spd and 3 holes for spd-sl. I use them with spd if I know I am in no need of walking during the ride.
#19
Another vote for Look pedals.
__________________
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 1,976
From: SW Ohio
I've been using LOOK pedals since they came out in the early 80s. Currently I use the LOOK Keo 2 Max pedals. I have a couple bikes with toe clips and straps but they're more "lookers" than riders. Any bike I'm serious about riding will have LOOK pedals and a modern saddle.
Last edited by nomadmax; 07-21-19 at 06:16 AM.
#21
I prefer spd pedals with the cage around them like this (note, I don't actually spring for xtr):

because the shoes are walkable, I have a fairly wide platform and, if I am just going to go a couple of miles with the family, these are comfortable enough with just running shoes, so I don't have to swap shoes for a little jaunt around the neighborhood. I used to have the one sided spd pedals because I thought they looked more appropriate on the bike (and eliminated any possibility of pedal strike when I really aggressively cornered), but I always had problems with the wrong side being up when I wanted to clip in in a hurry (traffic, etc.). This style can cause pedals strike if you're pedaling through a corner and are tilted pretty far over (and run 175 mm cranks like I do - might not be a problem with shorter cranks and to be fair, I only had it happen a couple times), but I just either don't take the corner quite as aggressively (I am getting older so this is smart), or just coast with the inside pedal up if I'm leaning the bike that far.

because the shoes are walkable, I have a fairly wide platform and, if I am just going to go a couple of miles with the family, these are comfortable enough with just running shoes, so I don't have to swap shoes for a little jaunt around the neighborhood. I used to have the one sided spd pedals because I thought they looked more appropriate on the bike (and eliminated any possibility of pedal strike when I really aggressively cornered), but I always had problems with the wrong side being up when I wanted to clip in in a hurry (traffic, etc.). This style can cause pedals strike if you're pedaling through a corner and are tilted pretty far over (and run 175 mm cranks like I do - might not be a problem with shorter cranks and to be fair, I only had it happen a couple times), but I just either don't take the corner quite as aggressively (I am getting older so this is smart), or just coast with the inside pedal up if I'm leaning the bike that far.
#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 1,921
[MENTION=443587]ExPatTyke[/MENTION], cool bike. 
I appreciate the responses. As said, Speedplay is on my list for the reasons others have said they like them. I really like the idea of dual-sided functionality. There's a good amount of adjustability. Nice and light, too.
Walkability isn't really a huge issue in this case. With my other bikes I just wear old soccer-style sneakers that work well with the clips and straps.
My second choice is the Look system. I like the idea of a wide platform (wide feet). I really like the way they look, and the color options.
Last night I found a pair of Speedplays for sale cheap, so I might very well end up with those.
I appreciate the responses. As said, Speedplay is on my list for the reasons others have said they like them. I really like the idea of dual-sided functionality. There's a good amount of adjustability. Nice and light, too.
Walkability isn't really a huge issue in this case. With my other bikes I just wear old soccer-style sneakers that work well with the clips and straps.
My second choice is the Look system. I like the idea of a wide platform (wide feet). I really like the way they look, and the color options.
Last night I found a pair of Speedplays for sale cheap, so I might very well end up with those.
#23
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,411
Likes: 1,876
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
To those who use clips and straps on some bikes and some form of snap-in/clipless on other bikes -- do you ever have a problem getting your foot stuck because you make the wrong motion for the system you are using at the time? This would be my biggest concern. I have been riding clips and straps for 50 years and will probably simply continue to do so, because they serve my needs so well.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#24
Super Moderator

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,987
Likes: 1,169
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Ditto on the Deltas.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html







