Handlebars?
#76
I never finish anyth


Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 137
From: Western KY
Bikes: 2008 Merckx LXM, 2003 Giant XTC mtb, 2001 Lemond Alpe d'Huez, 1997 Lemond Zurich, 1989 Cannondale ST, 1988 Masi Nuovo Strada, 1983 Pinarello Turismo
The Nitto Technomic is tall at 225mm for 25.4mm bars. The Nitto Dynamic is 150mm tall, but it is for 26mm bars. The Nitto NTC-150 stem is for 25.4 bars, but is not as tall as the Technomic, by 75mm. Also the Nitto Pearl is 150mm tall, and available for 25.4 or 26mm bars - also available in black - I picked one up from Ben's Cycle a couple of months ago.
Nitto stems are very nicely finished, the Pearl is probably the best finished of the bunch. Hard to go wrong.
Nitto stems are very nicely finished, the Pearl is probably the best finished of the bunch. Hard to go wrong.
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Dale, NL4T
Dale, NL4T
#77
(rhymes with spook)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,786
Likes: 749
From: Winslow, AR
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
the technomic is also made for 26mm
#78
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 906
From: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Bikes: More bikes than riders
And I'll throw in yet another idea for a different handlebar style. I have a butterfly bar on my '97 Trek. It's often called a "trekking bar". I have it double-wrapped and it's pretty comfortable. You can hold it like a wide steering wheel, or near the "bottom flats" where the brake levers are, or at the bottom corners (or top corners). I will often ride it with my palms extended flat on the lower corners, like we used to do hand prints in grade school. It's very comfortable and offers a lot of hand positions. Most of this style bar, to my knowledge, uses the 22.2mm diameter size, compatible with flat bar/MTB style controls, so it would require a different type of brake lever. I use short-pull MTB levers with mine (compatible with your caliper brakes).
IMG_20190919_183831811_HDR by jnjadcock, on Flickr
IMG_20190919_183819644_HDR by jnjadcock, on Flickr
IMG_20190919_183831811_HDR by jnjadcock, on Flickr
IMG_20190919_183819644_HDR by jnjadcock, on Flickr
#79
The Nitto Technomic is tall at 225mm for 25.4mm bars. The Nitto Dynamic is 150mm tall, but it is for 26mm bars. The Nitto NTC-150 stem is for 25.4 bars, but is not as tall as the Technomic, by 75mm. Also the Nitto Pearl is 150mm tall, and available for 25.4 or 26mm bars - also available in black - I picked one up from Ben's Cycle a couple of months ago.
Nitto stems are very nicely finished, the Pearl is probably the best finished of the bunch. Hard to go wrong.
Nitto stems are very nicely finished, the Pearl is probably the best finished of the bunch. Hard to go wrong.
#81
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 75
Likes: 14
From: N,W. Ohio
Bikes: 1972 Raleigh Tourist
#83
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
Handlebars?
I've seen one road bike around town with the handlebars reversed, so that the bars curve up and over instead of down and under. Not sure how it would feel, but there's at least one person trying it. :-) Definitely more upright...
I've had the same issue, and have switched over to using my hybrid more (including for a 3000km ride down the west coast a few years back). It's slower of course, but very comfortable. In some ways it's more pleasurable - you spend more time looking at the scenery and less at the asphalt.
In the end I've decided that it's the riding that's most important, not the bike. :-)
I've had the same issue, and have switched over to using my hybrid more (including for a 3000km ride down the west coast a few years back). It's slower of course, but very comfortable. In some ways it's more pleasurable - you spend more time looking at the scenery and less at the asphalt.
In the end I've decided that it's the riding that's most important, not the bike. :-)
#84
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,063
Likes: 294
From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Hello,
Another oldster here who has a few years on you. Check out the pix posted by “noobinsf” & “Thumpism”. When building or rebuilding bikes, I often use threadless adapters. They enable me to tryout various stem lengths as well as different angles of rise or drop fairly easily.
If you have a co-op near you, check out their selection of used riser quill stems. This will give you some economical options. Personally, like to use riser stems to get more upright than messing with the bars.
Cheers,
Van
Another oldster here who has a few years on you. Check out the pix posted by “noobinsf” & “Thumpism”. When building or rebuilding bikes, I often use threadless adapters. They enable me to tryout various stem lengths as well as different angles of rise or drop fairly easily.
If you have a co-op near you, check out their selection of used riser quill stems. This will give you some economical options. Personally, like to use riser stems to get more upright than messing with the bars.
Cheers,
Van
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Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#86
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 531
Likes: 60
From: Williston FL
Bikes: 1988 Panasonic, 1989 Fuji, Schwinn Beach Cruiser
I am 54, so a few years younger. I have had some back issues in the past, but healthy now. I would repeat the advice to take up yoga. It also helps with strength.
In the meanwhile saddle position, type and handlebar adjustment. My handlebars have actually dropped in the past year or so to about 4” below seat nose, which makes for a pretty aero ride as well.
In the meanwhile saddle position, type and handlebar adjustment. My handlebars have actually dropped in the past year or so to about 4” below seat nose, which makes for a pretty aero ride as well.
#87
weapons-grade bolognium


Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 6,607
Likes: 3,307
From: Across the street from Chicago
Bikes: Battaglin Cromor, Ciocc Designer 84, Schwinn Superior 1981
1. Find a saddle you (and yr junk) likes.
2. Adjust (fore/aft) and level saddle for efficient peddling.
3. Select a stem length that gives you a comfortable reach.
4. Consider different bar widths and bends for comfort in all positions.
Nailing fit can take some time and some fiddling around. Additionally, your fit will change with age and years on the bike.
Core strength, stretching, and yoga all help.
2. Adjust (fore/aft) and level saddle for efficient peddling.
3. Select a stem length that gives you a comfortable reach.
4. Consider different bar widths and bends for comfort in all positions.
Nailing fit can take some time and some fiddling around. Additionally, your fit will change with age and years on the bike.
Core strength, stretching, and yoga all help.
#89
Newbie

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 29
Likes: 1
From: El Sobrante, CA
Bikes: Holdsworth Competition, Pogliaghi Road, Surly Cross Check, Sette Ace, SE Draft, Trek 970
#90
Junior Member

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 154
Likes: 28
From: Maryland
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Roubaix Elite, 2002 Specialized Sirius Pro, 1985 Vitus 979 (DuraAce 7400), 1985 Bianchi Trofeo
Also, the Soma Highway One handlebar is among the few compact drop bars (shorter reach across the top, shorter drop between top and bottom grip area) available for quill stem bikes like ours. A friend put this bar on his 1980s Bridgestone road bike and they looked terrific -- just like the FSA Omega compact drops on my '93 Trek 5900, but with threadless rather than quill stem.
If I needed to make my Ironman more comfortable, that would be my next step -- the Soma Highway One bar.
If I needed to make my Ironman more comfortable, that would be my next step -- the Soma Highway One bar.
+1 on the Nitto Dynamic stem and the Soma Highway 1 bars.





