Check post #12 for the shadtree engineering, this calcs out, easily. Plus, its only the rear brake.

As mentioned earlier I was planning on removing the paint under the cable stop.

But Cudak has me considering painting the whole frame and fork so I could then just braze the stops directly to the frame.

If you're removing paint, yeah, just braze the beast on.

Yea, but brazing burns the paint all around the braze on, so I have to repaint, where my screw and glue technique makes the whole build cheaper and notably quicker, and even though the paint is a bit beat up, original paint always has some sentimental value.

I'll probably end up painting the whole thing, I'm tinkering with other crap now while I think on it :-)

No derailleur fittings. If I'm not mistaken, it's a 5-speed Sturmey with two indicators, one coming out of each end of the axle. Just going by the seat of the pants, the force to pull the indicator on a Sturmey seems considerably less than, say, the spring action on a typical '90s front mech. And if the OP converts the brake course to guides instead of stops, and runs full compressionless housing, as mentioned above, at least he won't lose the rear brake if the bond gives way.

Plus, I think it would look cool, with two cables on stops and the other housed the whole length. Sign of a deft DIY hand.

Black Raleighs are sexy.



Plus, if you want, you can fill any lug voids with silver while the frame is stripped.

-Kurt

I do like 'em black 3 speed!

I have a black restomod Hercules with 700c wheels that will always be my favorite bike (don't tell my other bikes),



Rode a century around Lake Tahoe on it last summer with 5,000'+ of climbing, averaged 16 MPH even (rolling average).

So, I won't go black on this one, a brighter green like some of the Raleigh's from the 70's could look good...