Looking for replacement frameset!
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 3
From: Toronto, ON
Looking for replacement frameset!
Hi all! I'm looking for a frameset to replace my current one, a 1994 Specialized Allez Pro. It's a beautiful lugged nut, solid steel frame but unfortunately the seatstays are bent from being hit by a car. This is my first foray into finding a compatible frame given a gruppo. I'm aware that the fork dropout (front wheel spacing), frame dropout (rear wheel spacing), headset, bottom bracket, front derailleur clamp, and seat diameter are a few measurements to keep in mind. I haven't found the exact measurements for this Allez Pro frame and I'm wary of any unknowns that could cause problems down the road...
I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 21,802
Likes: 3,702
I cannot tell if the front derailleur is mounted off a braze on or not.
English "ISO" threading, probably 130mm rear spacing.
Seatpost is probably a 27.2 but don't get a frame any larger and expect to use that aero seatpost. (in review, you may already have the post too low)
By the set up shown, not really much smaller either.
I would look for an Eddy Merckx or an American builder of the period. Will be def cheaper than a whole bike... well, maybe not, you have to look.
I found a terrific deal on an American builder made bike, complete for less than what I would have expected to pay for the frame alone a few years ago.
You may need a different length stem if you exchange frames, top tube lengths differ.
You could get an Italian frame, but most likely you will need to exchange the bottom bracket. The Italians held on with 36x24 threading, English, ISO is 1.370 x 24tpi with LH threading for the drive side.
English "ISO" threading, probably 130mm rear spacing.
Seatpost is probably a 27.2 but don't get a frame any larger and expect to use that aero seatpost. (in review, you may already have the post too low)
By the set up shown, not really much smaller either.
I would look for an Eddy Merckx or an American builder of the period. Will be def cheaper than a whole bike... well, maybe not, you have to look.
I found a terrific deal on an American builder made bike, complete for less than what I would have expected to pay for the frame alone a few years ago.
You may need a different length stem if you exchange frames, top tube lengths differ.
You could get an Italian frame, but most likely you will need to exchange the bottom bracket. The Italians held on with 36x24 threading, English, ISO is 1.370 x 24tpi with LH threading for the drive side.
#3
Senior Member


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,106
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
Bikes: ? Proteous, '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, 'Litespeed Catalyst'94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster
Sorry for the damage. How about pictures of the damage?
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#5
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Seattle area
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Always fix something that can be loved again affordably, whatever that is.
In a new frame would you be looking to duplicate the ride of your Allez Pro? Or a more touring type ride experience? 28mm tires wide enough?
edit: For that group , i would be looking Italian frame. Never hurts to replace a bottom bracket, they can be affordable and vintage Italian may mean different threads.
A good 1st choice = DeRosa Pro - mine is SLX - what I call the all-day racer (also heard it called the 'stage race king')
Oversized tubes should make a slightly stiffer frame and paired with good supple tires the ride is great.
Actually there are so many choices, it can only be narrowed by you deciding your preferences.
In a new frame would you be looking to duplicate the ride of your Allez Pro? Or a more touring type ride experience? 28mm tires wide enough?
edit: For that group , i would be looking Italian frame. Never hurts to replace a bottom bracket, they can be affordable and vintage Italian may mean different threads.
A good 1st choice = DeRosa Pro - mine is SLX - what I call the all-day racer (also heard it called the 'stage race king')
Oversized tubes should make a slightly stiffer frame and paired with good supple tires the ride is great.
Actually there are so many choices, it can only be narrowed by you deciding your preferences.
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Last edited by Wildwood; 02-15-20 at 04:42 PM.
#6
Senior Member




Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 16,080
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From: PDX
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Hi all! I'm looking for a frameset to replace my current one, a 1994 Specialized Allez Pro. It's a beautiful lugged nut, solid steel frame but unfortunately the seatstays are bent from being hit by a car. This is my first foray into finding a compatible frame given a gruppo. I'm aware that the fork dropout (front wheel spacing), frame dropout (rear wheel spacing), headset, bottom bracket, front derailleur clamp, and seat diameter are a few measurements to keep in mind. I haven't found the exact measurements for this Allez Pro frame and I'm wary of any unknowns that could cause problems down the road...
I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
I would like to keep using this campy groupo but it may be both cheaper and easier to buy a complete bike at this point. What do you think?
Thanks everyone!

1994 Specialized Allez Pro. Photo taken by previous owner in 2015.
#7
Bike Butcher of Portland


Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 12,431
Likes: 7,926
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: It's complicated.
Seat stays are the easiest tubes of a frame to fix or replace. I think you'll notice the sentiment here is to try and save that frame. On the other hand, for a racing bike, many would say that frame's a bit big for you, based on the seat height.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 21,802
Likes: 3,702
The tilt of the saddle indicates to me the wrong saddle. With the downward tilt, there is no escaping that the rider will be fighting gravity.
No way to advise without seeing one pedaling on the bike and asking questions.
#10
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Another vote for straightening the frame, unless the stays got crinkled or something.
#11
OP: What's the question here, anyway? What would we suggest for a replacement frame? Because if so, we need some idea of what kind of riding you do just to get in the ballpark of recommendations. Then you need to give us a budget - which of course we'll blow in two seconds flat 
So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD

So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD
#12
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Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 82 Medici, 85 Ironman, 2011 Richard Sachs
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
#13
Senior Member


Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,169
Likes: 1,797
From: Madison, WI USA
Location (approximate)? As said, the frame damage is likely repairable, but knowing location, folks here can make recommendations for where to take it.
If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
#14
Bike Butcher of Portland


Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 12,431
Likes: 7,926
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: It's complicated.
Here's a good thread to show you that sometimes a frame that looks like it's toast can be saved.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#15
True that, but it may very well be that this is an easy fix. We haven't seen any pictures of the frame in current condition. Part of the ethos of the C&V community is to keep these vintage steel frames on the road rather than throw them away.
Here's a good thread to show you that sometimes a frame that looks like it's toast can be saved.
Here's a good thread to show you that sometimes a frame that looks like it's toast can be saved.
DD
#16
Bike Butcher of Portland


Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 12,431
Likes: 7,926
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: It's complicated.
If that were the case, I'd like to see the frame pix and offer to pay shipping to the Atelier.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#17
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 3
From: Toronto, ON
OP: What's the question here, anyway? What would we suggest for a replacement frame? Because if so, we need some idea of what kind of riding you do just to get in the ballpark of recommendations. Then you need to give us a budget - which of course we'll blow in two seconds flat 
So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD

So far the thread is steering into a "fix the frame" discussion, and I dunno if that's the direction you want to go in.
Take measurements of the rear spacing but don't worry about the front spacing - forks are set to a standard that doesn't really vary like the back end does. Seatpost size will be marked on your seatpost. Your main concerns, beyond finding a frame that best suits the kind of riding you do, will be to match up threading (or get replacement parts to work with different threading), ensure seatpost size and match rear spacing to your current wheelset.
DD
Location (approximate)? As said, the frame damage is likely repairable, but knowing location, folks here can make recommendations for where to take it.
If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
If you decide to replace it, the measurement answers are above, but it's best to measure it yourself to be certain, particularly the dropout spacing.
I've asked too many a shop if the damage is repairable, and the answer is always a resounding and saddening no. I love this frame as much as you all love yours and I would pay more money than it's worth to save it, but the seatstays are toasted. Crinkled to the point of no return. Even so, the thought of bending them back and welding a piece of steel to it has crossed my mind... I'm going to take some photos over the weekend for you.
Last edited by anthonylangford; 02-15-20 at 10:17 PM.
#18
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Donated that exact model and size to the co op last year in my quest to get down to a reasonable #. Too bad the timing wasn't better.
#19
Bike Butcher of Portland


Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 12,431
Likes: 7,926
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: It's complicated.
Oof, if you were stateside I'd consider paying you to have it shipped to me. As I noted, seatstays are the easiest tube to replace, and I could find it a good home. I've been known to have three legged dogs follow me home...
Thanks in advance for the pix.
Thanks in advance for the pix.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,676
Likes: 2,642
From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Speaking of repairs to keep a frame going... some of the vignettes on the Yellow Jersey page border on necromancy! A Nearly Neverending story - it's too early to tell
#21
Senior Member


Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,169
Likes: 1,797
From: Madison, WI USA
^^^^^^ +1; the OP needs to find a place like YJ in his neck of the woods. Doesn't matter how many shops say no. Most modern shops are geared toward selling bikes, installing accessories, swapping components, and daily/minor repairs. It takes a special breed of builder / repairer to do frame work, but when you find such a person/place, amazing things can be done. Case in point - a buddy came by with a ca. 1990 Shogun with a broken seat binder/lug. He was sure that it was shot, or would cost a fortune to fix. I sent some pics to YJ, and Andy replied describing it as "straightforward", and would be $75.
BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
#22
Knowing what Mark has repaired - and what other BF members have had repaired - I am really looking forward to the pics with a sort of morbid curiosity! OP, hopefully you didn't suffer as badly as the bike did in the car-to-bike contact.
I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
#23
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 15,367
Likes: 8,278
From: Seattle area
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
This bike was 'adjusted' by [MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION]. No paint damage from repair. Stays bent but not crimped. Rides perfectly straight. Thanks again, Mark.


Last edited by Wildwood; 02-16-20 at 10:21 AM.
#24
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 3
From: Toronto, ON
^^^^^^ +1; the OP needs to find a place like YJ in his neck of the woods. Doesn't matter how many shops say no. Most modern shops are geared toward selling bikes, installing accessories, swapping components, and daily/minor repairs. It takes a special breed of builder / repairer to do frame work, but when you find such a person/place, amazing things can be done. Case in point - a buddy came by with a ca. 1990 Shogun with a broken seat binder/lug. He was sure that it was shot, or would cost a fortune to fix. I sent some pics to YJ, and Andy replied describing it as "straightforward", and would be $75.
BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
BTW, the "mitch" in the URL of the above link is a neighbor, one of the founders of YJ back in the day, Mitch Nussbaum. I don't think I've ever seen him on anything but a VERY used old Raleigh (et al) three-speed, and he really does run them right to the end. At his age, I'm afraid it would blow his mind to suggest the notion of rinsing the salt off his bike after a winter ride.
Knowing what Mark has repaired - and what other BF members have had repaired - I am really looking forward to the pics with a sort of morbid curiosity! OP, hopefully you didn't suffer as badly as the bike did in the car-to-bike contact.
I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
I think given your budget you can easily find something of high-quality worthy of wearing the parts from your current machine. Assuming you find a frame with the same tube diameter and rear spacing, the only parts you may have to swap would be bottom bracket if you go with something Italian and headset. Headsets are always tricky, because if one is installed correctly the fork steerer is cut precisely to match it. If the fork on the new frame has a steerer just a little too long, you'd have to cut it to get a good installation. If it were just a tad too short, too few threads would engage and could affect the integrity of the interface. In simple terms, stack height of your current headset must match the new frame's fork or you're going shopping for a compatible one.
Check current Ebay sold prices for the same BB with Italian thread just to know ballpark what you may be paying for one of those. Assume for now your headset will transfer over. I'm thinking that's leaving you with 500CAD to put on a frame. You will find lots of nice road frames (you're still looking for vintage-ish, not modern, correct?) out there for that kind of money.
DD
This is giving me hope, but I'm going to keep it at bay until you see these photos. What do you think?



Last edited by anthonylangford; 02-16-20 at 01:45 PM.
#25
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2004
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Likes: 8,278
From: Seattle area
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Definately needs replacement.
edit: replace the stay AND get the DeRosa (as previously recommended).
edit: replace the stay AND get the DeRosa (as previously recommended).
__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.






