Platform Pedals
#2
Extraordinary Magnitude


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 14,081
Likes: 2,135
From: Waukesha WI
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Best pedals ever- SR SP-11
SP-11 King2 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
Tossup between the SR SP-155
SP-155-2 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
And the modern White Industries pedals:
WIPedals4 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
SP-11 King2 by Dave The Golden Boy, on FlickrTossup between the SR SP-155
SP-155-2 by Dave The Golden Boy, on FlickrAnd the modern White Industries pedals:
WIPedals4 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#3
Me duelen las nalgas

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13,519
Likes: 2,832
From: Texas
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Modern. I'm really liking iSSi Thumps on my early '90s Univega. Tried the original Sakai Low Fat, reminded me why I don't care for that pedal style unless I'm wearing Detto Pietros with cleats, toe clips and straps.
Tried Wellgo aluminum pedals for awhile. They looked good and rode okay but were a little small. And too difficult to overhaul and adjust properly.
I rode a pair of cheap Stolen Brand Thermalite flat pedals for a couple of years. Those were really good for the money, like $15 or so.
When I upgraded I wanted something like the Stolen Brand pedals, but better -- larger and more comfortable. The iSSi Thump did the trick for around $40. Slightly curved to match my feet. The nylon pins are grippy with all my shoes without tearing them up. Supposedly easy to overhaul when needed. There's a version with replaceable steel pins for folks who are more serious about single track, mountain biking and off road.
Tried Wellgo aluminum pedals for awhile. They looked good and rode okay but were a little small. And too difficult to overhaul and adjust properly.
I rode a pair of cheap Stolen Brand Thermalite flat pedals for a couple of years. Those were really good for the money, like $15 or so.
When I upgraded I wanted something like the Stolen Brand pedals, but better -- larger and more comfortable. The iSSi Thump did the trick for around $40. Slightly curved to match my feet. The nylon pins are grippy with all my shoes without tearing them up. Supposedly easy to overhaul when needed. There's a version with replaceable steel pins for folks who are more serious about single track, mountain biking and off road.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 821
Likes: 158
From: Ottawa, Canada
Bikes: Raleigh Classic 15, 84; Miyata 912, 85; Miyata Ridge Runner SE, 85; Miyata 610, 86; Miyata 100M, 86; Miyata Valley Runner, 88; Miyata Triple Cross, 89; GT Karakoram, 90; Miyata Elevation 300, 91; Marinoni Touring, 95; Long Haul Trucker, 2013
I like the MKS Sylvan Touring for looks and function.
But, truth be told, for my mountain bikes, I like the Crankbrothers Stamp, even though there's nothing CV about them.
But, truth be told, for my mountain bikes, I like the Crankbrothers Stamp, even though there's nothing CV about them.
#7
Rustbelt Rider
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 9,105
Likes: 390
From: Canton, OH
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
I really like the MKS lyotard copies. Nice wide platform for my wide feet. More importantly, the MKS cages let my feet in far enough and don’t pinch.
My favorite vintage so far are the Deore dyna-drive pedals.

My favorite vintage so far are the Deore dyna-drive pedals.

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#8
Senior Member



Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 4,001
Likes: 2,317
When they start clicking, the hole in the outer endplate has worn and the central barrel is loose. A little percussive maintenance to close up the hole is then necessary.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,584
Likes: 107
From: Scranton, PA, USA
Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (stored at parents' house)
Sixteen years ago I bought a set of MKS GR-9 pedals. The clips are a little busted and rusty now, but the pedals are still great. Used them on many bikes over the years. Admittedly, though, my feet aren't so big.
A couple months back I treated myself to a set of their Gamma pedals when Soma had a sale and my bonus was burning a hole in my pocket. I like them a lot, but they haven't seen much use so far. My little tootsies definitely don't slip around on them.
I've also used cheap aluminum Wellgo BMX pedals on a few city-type bikes. A big upgrade over plastic garbage. Never pried the caps off to see the business inside, but they work okay for what they do. They can be a bit slick in the wet, though.
A couple months back I treated myself to a set of their Gamma pedals when Soma had a sale and my bonus was burning a hole in my pocket. I like them a lot, but they haven't seen much use so far. My little tootsies definitely don't slip around on them.
I've also used cheap aluminum Wellgo BMX pedals on a few city-type bikes. A big upgrade over plastic garbage. Never pried the caps off to see the business inside, but they work okay for what they do. They can be a bit slick in the wet, though.
#10
Senior Member



Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 5,788
Likes: 3,361
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 82 Medici, 85 Ironman, 2011 Richard Sachs
If you aren't using toe clips, then MKS Sylvan look the part and hold my 510s pretty good.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
#11
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 5,251
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.





