Source for new threaded fork?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

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Source for new threaded fork?
I'm probably missing something obvious, but can anyone point me to a source for new, good quality, nice looking 1" threaded forks?
What I've seen so far are cheap (and to me, ugly) unicrown steel forks and I see that Wound Up makes what looks to be a very nice carbonfiber-legged threaded fork. That's my leading candidate so far and the only new, high quality, nice looking production, threaded fork I've found so far, and it can give you options for steer tube length as well as rake. I'd prefer a source for stock forks, but would consider custom.
It's not that I "hate" unicrown forks, it's just that for this bike, I'd prefer not. If metal - a sloped, subtle lugged fork is more like it.
Regarding "new old stock" or used forks, I am happy to pay more for some peace of mind and an existing company to back their product both quality-wise and legally. A good used steel fork would probably be the only used fork I'd consider.
I'm not really interested in a threadless set up for this bike.
What I've seen so far are cheap (and to me, ugly) unicrown steel forks and I see that Wound Up makes what looks to be a very nice carbonfiber-legged threaded fork. That's my leading candidate so far and the only new, high quality, nice looking production, threaded fork I've found so far, and it can give you options for steer tube length as well as rake. I'd prefer a source for stock forks, but would consider custom.
It's not that I "hate" unicrown forks, it's just that for this bike, I'd prefer not. If metal - a sloped, subtle lugged fork is more like it.
Regarding "new old stock" or used forks, I am happy to pay more for some peace of mind and an existing company to back their product both quality-wise and legally. A good used steel fork would probably be the only used fork I'd consider.
I'm not really interested in a threadless set up for this bike.
#2
A quick search found a couple of options here........... https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/forks
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Be where your feet are.......Lisa Bluder
Be where your feet are.......Lisa Bluder
#3
Hoards Thumbshifters

Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Signal Mountain, TN
Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750
The best place for your needs, not fully knowing them is the back of an old bike shop, your local bike coop, or ebay. If you are patient a nice one will show up. The problem with threaded 1" steerers is that they all varied in size, so you could find one used in your size or greater to make it happen, but you'll need someone who knows how to cut it properly.
#4
Senior Member



Joined: Dec 2005
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Soma sells one: https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/pro...2&category=975
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
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A quick search found a couple of options here........... https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/forks
The best place for your needs, not fully knowing them is the back of an old bike shop, your local bike coop, or ebay. If you are patient a nice one will show up. The problem with threaded 1" steerers is that they all varied in size, so you could find one used in your size or greater to make it happen, but you'll need someone who knows how to cut it properly.
Soma sells one: https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/pro...2&category=975
Last edited by Camilo; 02-04-21 at 09:48 PM.
#6
framebuilder


Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Niles, Michigan
This just sees like a job for a custom frame builder. He/she could figure out the exact measurements required by finding out the dimensions of your frame. Those dimensions also include what length of blades puts the brake shoes in the same place in the slots as they are in the rear. And while it is possible the original fork had 43/45mm of rake it is just as possible it had more. And of course then you can choose the kind of fork crown that will match the frame. Fork blades come in different wall thicknesses and replacement forks tend toward the too heavy side as a safety feature. And then there is the question of whether you want one, two or no eyelets.
#7
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Pacific Northwest
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
Jeff Lyon says he’ll will build a fork for $285. Not sure what parameters are associated with them, but BQ liked his L’Avecaise.
https://www.lyonsport.com/frames-0
https://www.lyonsport.com/frames-0
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 60
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From: Sweden
BLB makes some quite affordable threaded chromed steel forks.
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/forks
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/forks
#9
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
This just sees like a job for a custom frame builder. He/she could figure out the exact measurements required by finding out the dimensions of your frame. Those dimensions also include what length of blades puts the brake shoes in the same place in the slots as they are in the rear. And while it is possible the original fork had 43/45mm of rake it is just as possible it had more. And of course then you can choose the kind of fork crown that will match the frame. Fork blades come in different wall thicknesses and replacement forks tend toward the too heavy side as a safety feature. And then there is the question of whether you want one, two or no eyelets.
Another thing I've wondered is how you might go about matching a fork to a frame that is sold without a fork. I've always been reluctant to buy a frame sans fork because I assume it may have been crashed, but also because I'm not sure how a non-original fork might affect the ride. Any thoughts or guidance?
#10
Senior Member



Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 82 Medici, 85 Ironman, 2011 Richard Sachs
https://waterfordbikes.com/waterford-built-forks/
I've since changed my plans but I was going here to get a nice fork for my Waterford built Milwaukee Road.
I've since changed my plans but I was going here to get a nice fork for my Waterford built Milwaukee Road.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs. But I do hate all e-bikes.
#11
Patina Avoider


Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Maryland, USA
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Vitus
A quick search found a couple of options here........... https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/forks
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Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 198? Vitus 979. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 198? Vitus 979. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#14
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: SF Peninsula
Bikes: 1986 Centurion Ironman, 1997 Trek 2120, Trek T1000
What part of the country are you in? From discussion above, the builder would want to have the frame to measure before making the fork.
#15
#16
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Steer tube + headset = 164mm, so a little less than that minimum, with a maximum of about 180 or so of total length (using spacers... I use a tall stem and it would just mean less above the head set). I'm not afraid to cut the top off to get within that range and dress the threads, but only if it would leave about 25mm of threads remaining and no more than 150mm of untreaded below the threads to allow the upper race to thread down far enough. I've worked with threaded forks and headsets enough to be comfortable with those measurements, but plan to play around with the fork off my other bike (similar dimensions) to double check. Heck, I don't have anything better to do!
Good point. If I go that route (but probably won't), I'm sure I could provide enough information.
Good point. If I go that route (but probably won't), I'm sure I could provide enough information.
#17
Senior Member


Joined: May 2019
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Bikes: Bianchi Campione d'Italia, Lemond Poprad, Kona Hei Hei (converted to drop bars), Felt F1PR, Specialized Sequoia, various other projects
Doug, Is there anything like a registry of independent frame builders? I like the idea of supporting a local frame builder. My general impression (I know, not good to generalize...) is that many of the best frame builders are backlogged and may not be willing to take on a one-off fork when other full builds are in the queue. If I was in need, I'd be happy to throw some business to one of former your pupils, too.
Another thing I've wondered is how you might go about matching a fork to a frame that is sold without a fork. I've always been reluctant to buy a frame sans fork because I assume it may have been crashed, but also because I'm not sure how a non-original fork might affect the ride. Any thoughts or guidance?
Another thing I've wondered is how you might go about matching a fork to a frame that is sold without a fork. I've always been reluctant to buy a frame sans fork because I assume it may have been crashed, but also because I'm not sure how a non-original fork might affect the ride. Any thoughts or guidance?
#19
(rhymes with spook)
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Winslow, AR
Bikes: '83 univega gran turismo x2, '85 schwinn super le tour,'89 miyata triple cross, '91 GT tequesta, '90 yokota grizzly peak, '94 GT backwoods, '95'ish scott tampico, '98 bonty privateer, '93 mongoose crossway 625, '98 parkpre ariel, 2k'ish giant fcr3
just as a matter of fact, even if you were interested in a unicrown fork it will have a taller axle to crown height than that of a classic lugged crown. so, using a uni would throw the front end geometry off a good amount if your frame doesn't originally have one





