I just acquired a new project bike. It looks to be a late 1980s frame by Luigi Montagner with miscellaneous components. Here are a few before pics.




I have found some basic information about him online, but comments and information are welcome. The bike is a little banged up, so I will probably do basic restoration and then use it on rides where I don't necessarily want to have the shiniest bike on the block.

OK, so the priorities are:

1. New chain because the old one broke while I was test riding it. I have a spare chain that should fit.

2. New stem because the Salsa one looks ridiculous and the top tube is already about 4 cm longer than any other bike I own, so this stem puts me in super-duperman position. I'm thinking a 90 cm slightly battered Cinelli or 3ttt.

3. New brake levers and shifters because I hate brifters. These do work, but it's always just a matter of time with brifters. I am not super particular about brake levers, and I might even put stem shifters on it just to see if I can make anybody on this forum's head explode.

4. I'd like to lower the seat about an inch, but the seatpost is stuck pretty hard. Oh well, the super tall seat can be another theft deterrent for now.

Most of the components are a mix of high and middle range Shimano, but the crank is Campy.

Thoughts?

That is a good looking project.

Suggesting you fix the seatpost issue first (unless it fits perfectly). Once you get that the rest should follow

The seat is about where I like it for distance riding, but I would put it a little lower for city riding. It's OK and will probably loosen up eventually (although we have one at the charity shop where I volunteer that we could never get loose, even with the seatpost in a vice and three guys trying to turn the upside down bike).

Fine bikes: I've always had a soft spot (and respect) for these after working on a couple (not kept but sold on).
They are under-appreciated IMO, but that's to be expected because they are seldom seen.
Do you know if this frame is Columbus or Oria tubing, and what model tubing?

this one and only scan on Mark Bulgier's site shows frames (ribbed and indented) with 2 types of Oria tubing:

https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Montagner/1.jpg

Tube sticker is missing. It has longitudinal ridges on the outside, which I've seen mentioned in connection with the Oria tubing.

Seatpost still stuck by the way. Does anybody have opinions about whether other types of penetrating goop work better than Liquid Wrench? Also, does the penetrating goop lose effectiveness over time as volatile ingredients disappear?

Kroil is a possibility... is there rust on the visible part of the alloy post in the crack?

[MENTION=498403]Mad Honk[/MENTION] suggested removing the bottom bracket, flipping the frame and putting an ATF/acetone mixture in the tube from the bottom and letting it sit. If it isn’t a fluted post it will seep into the crannies and provide lubrication. Problem is that it isn’t rust...it’s the Aluminum Oxide deposits that are unaffected by derusters.

i have used parallel 2 by 6s for leverage with the seat on to twist but it is risky.

No visible rust. I pried the clamp slit apart slightly and dribbled some Liquid Wrench in from the top. I can also get it into the seat tube through a bottle cage hole, so I'll do that and hang it upside down tonight. The seatpost is fluted, but the flutes are above the top of the seat tube so I'm assuming it isn't set in very deep.

It's a nice Dura-ace seatpost, but if it doesn't come loose soon it will get some force applied to it.

OK, so after thinking about ways to put maximum force on the seatpost, it occurred to me that intense twisting might not be ideal for this very light frame. It's a nice seatpost, but not worth risking damage to the frame.

Looking at pictures of the fluted Dura-Ace, I think it has fairly thin walls and is only inserted about 6-7 cm. It should be fairly easily to jailbreak it by cutting off the post and inserting a hacksaw blade into the tube.

Any thoughts? Once I cut the seatpost I will be committed since there will be nothing left to grab onto and twist.

Cutting up the seat post is a last resort before using lye.
Give the penetrating oils time to work. Include a couple of gentle taps with a hammer to help the pentrant to "move."

And you are right to be careful. others have broken the CS joints at the cluster trying to twist it off using the frame and the post in a vice.

There are several lengthy threads in this forum regarding "every trick in the book" for seatpost removal. Search and read.
I have sawn out a few and it's never a picnic, but have had success, also in the heat of battle I got over amped and ruined a couple good frames, so keep a cool head.
Speaking of heat: if you can get a good heat gun, use it carefully and it might be your magic charm, and not burn off the paint. They are easier to control than a propane torch but still require care!
Good luck!
it's a great feeling when you finally get one out, even if the post is trashed.

Seatpost has been removed.




I bought some expensive penetrating goop, but it showed no sign of penetrating so I went for the jailbreak. It took three vertical cuts to get the post to release. I think I avoided damaging the frame except for a few paint chips on the top of the seatpost lug.

Unfortunately it looks like there is internal rust, so I will be dealing with that.

congrats! And that was quick (at least for us in the peanut gallery)!
If you have internal rust consider a soak in a kiddie wading pool with oxalic acid (wood bleach crystals dissolved in warm water).
This usually causes no harm to paint or decals.
Again, if you use the search tool for "Oxalic Acid" threads in this forum you'll find much reading.