I started on the UWS in '75 but only stopped migrating when we got close the Nassau border. 😉.

One point that I have not seen mentioned in this thread: In 1974, the Raleigh Competition had a 5 speed freewheel and therefore 120 mm rear dropout spacing. Most built wheels today would require 126 or 130 dropout spacing and would be difficult to fit into your frame. The frame can be modified to wider dropout spacing if you wish to go that route

On ebay, forget used wheels. For the cost of shipping alone, you should be able to find a local alternative. Buy local, via donor or just wheels, used can be a BIG bargain. Depends on how resourceful you are. Advantages of used wheels bought locally: usually will come with tires, tubes, freewheel and rim strips, avoid the high cost of shipping. On the used wheels I find 90% of the tubes, rim strips and freewheels are usuable, 25% of the tires are good,

The last donor bike I picked up (last week), the stem alone was worth the asking price. One key instead of looking at what you don't want, look at what you do want and what is sellable.

I've owned about 1,000 bikes. I have never bought a new wheel, and I rarely buy new tires. I tend to have an overabundance of wheels, so I often donate them.

I read some comments from people on Bike Forums saying they had VeloMine wheels go out of true soon after they started using them, so when I bought from them I did some standard stress relief a retensioning stuff. It was free because I did it myself. I wouldn't pay an LBS to do it, and here's why. When you get the wheels, they may or may not need extra work like this. If they do need it, the symptom will be that they go out of true after a bit of use. At that point, you can either true them yourself (not very difficult, really) or take it to the LBS and pay what you would now. Nothing is lost by not having taken them in. If they don't need extra work, you just ride and are happy with the extra money still in your pocket.

I'd take a guitar pick (or my fingernail- but I feel like a guitar pick is more consistent) and pluck each spoke when you get the wheels and listen for them to be pretty close in tone. If they aren't, then keep your eye on the wheel for trueness- it'll likely start to go out, then, as suggesAndy_K above, take it to the LBS for touch-up. If the tones are all pretty close, you may be lucky and ride indefinitely without needing the LBS!

I'll measure before I order, but the bike came with non-original wheels with Campy Athena hubs and a 6-speed freewheel, so I suspect it was adjusted to 126mm already.

One other question: is there any difference between the Velomine M13ii wheels and the "Wheelmaster" ones on Amazon? Asking only because Velomine's shipping is pretty high and I'm trying to do this as cheap as I can.

Based on the comments in the Amazon listing directing a buyer back to Velomine for a fixed gear wheelset, I think they are the same.

I’ve never had a problem with used wheels. If the hubs are quality and not crunchy and grinding, and they spin reasonably true in the hand, and the price is right, get them. There are co-ops in Brooklyn to check out. They may have wheel building tools and tutors.

btw, my 5th floor walk up in Chelsea [MENTION=56513]1977[/MENTION] was real a drag when I got all the way up to my apartment and realized that I forgot to buy cigarettes. I’m happy to visit my daughter in the Bowery but sad to see the retro-modded lower Manhattan.

Velomine sells Wheelmaster wheels, same as the guys on Amazon or elsewhere. If you order from Velomine, the box they come in will say Wheelmaster on it.

I had the same dilemma as you while restoring an old Fuji (find a used set or buy new), and ended up buying a set of Wheelmaster wheels from Velomine. I bought Sun CR18 rims but it sounds like you want the M13. I'm very happy with the quality of the wheels, especially for the price. The Origin8 hubs with their cartridge bearings are nicer than expected. Since they're machine-built wheels, I did have my "wheel guy" at my LBS retension and true them before I put them on the road. They weren't too bad straight out of the box, but they weren't perfect.

I just got my metric tape measure from Amazon and took a look. The rear dropout has already been stretched to 130mm to accommodate the Campy hubs, so it’s my understanding that 126mm hubs won’t be a problem. Sound right?