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Are these pedals rebuildable?

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Are these pedals rebuildable?

Old 05-27-23, 09:01 PM
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hph
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Are these pedals rebuildable?

I know old pedals a lot of times you can rebuild old pedals by unscrewing the nut on the end, but this doesn't seem like it would unscrew. Do you pry/pull it off, or is it just not meant to be disassembled?

If I can't disassemble, what's the suggested way to grease them up?
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Old 05-27-23, 09:09 PM
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That one is tough to tell from the picture. I would guess that the end cap may be threaded or pressed on. You could also stand the pedals so that the threaded part of the axle is pointing upward and place a few drops of oil into the gap between the axle and the body. I've done this on the swaged Schwinn Approved pedals that are not easily rebuildable with good results.

Oh, I just noticed and should have known better that on these block pedals that the rubber blocks and the pedals are held together by 2 screws.
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Old 05-27-23, 09:45 PM
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Most likely the dust cap can be pried up with a thin bladed screwdriver.
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Old 05-28-23, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Velo Mule
. I would guess that the end cap may be threaded or pressed on. You could also stand the pedals so that the threaded part of the axle is pointing upward and place a few drops of oil into the gap between the axle and the body. I've done this on the swaged Schwinn Approved pedals that are not easily rebuildable with good results.
Iíve worked on a few too and most will not gracefully open up (vs destructively open). Iíve oiled them as told above which improves them but does not ensure the bearings are cleaned. But, probably suitable for purpose. Either those bikes will not be ridden or will be ridden very little. I doubt those vintage rubber block pedals ever see serious mileage.
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Old 05-28-23, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Velo Mule
That one is tough to tell from the picture. I would guess that the end cap may be threaded or pressed on. You could also stand the pedals so that the threaded part of the axle is pointing upward and place a few drops of oil into the gap between the axle and the body. I've done this on the swaged Schwinn Approved pedals that are not easily rebuildable with good results.

Oh, I just noticed and should have known better that on these block pedals that the rubber blocks and the pedals are held together by 2 screws.
That's what i thought was odd, they are screwed on yet i can't pull the assembly apart.

I'll see if I can pry the cap off somehow.
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Old 05-28-23, 07:45 AM
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The relevant view is the outside end of the pedal. If there are Phillips or slotted heads on the screws that run through the rubber blocks and nuts on the other end, which would be the crank side, then yes, you can remove the nuts and tap the screws out from the crank side. The end-cap is one large stamping and will come off exposing the end of the spindle and you are on your way.
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Old 05-28-23, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by RustyJames
you can remove the nuts and tap the screws out from the crank side.
This is what I thought. The picture looks like the nuts are already removed, the screws just need tapped out and perhaps the OP is being too gentle with it.

I would suggest doing this over a pan or tray to catch any balls or such that may go falling about.
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Old 05-28-23, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RustyJames
The relevant view is the outside end of the pedal. If there are Phillips or slotted heads on the screws that run through the rubber blocks and nuts on the other end, which would be the crank side, then yes, you can remove the nuts and tap the screws out from the crank side. The end-cap is one large stamping and will come off exposing the end of the spindle and you are on your way.
There's not screw heads. Not sure if they're carriage bolts, or somehow fixed in place. I'll tap them a bit harder and let you know.
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Old 05-29-23, 07:53 AM
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hph Itís been a bit but I seem to recall that under the head it was like a carriage bolt or there was fluting and those screws in there fairly tight. (Trying to keep the rubber from rotating?)

Iíll see if I have something I can tear down and post pics for reference. I feel like Iíve posted something here before.
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Old 05-29-23, 08:00 AM
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@RustyJames
Update: turns out the caps were not that hard to just pry off. I figured they should be repairable because of the screw bolts used implied the ability to disassemble... usually if some part is disassembleable then it all will be.

As a note, you should mark the orientation of the carriage bolts before removal otherwise you'll never get them back in without oversizing the hole by a fraction. Of course, if you don't want to clean the pedal, you don't need to remove them.

Images:
- Pry point. (If you don't have an extended tip 45į needle nose, you don't know what you're missing. They are endlessly useful.)
- Jam nut (washer and cone nut underneath).
- Old vs. rebuilt.
- Bearings on the second pedal. You can see why they needed rebuilt! Of note, the "ring" in the 4th picture is just hardened grease. There was actually an extra blob under the cover, and even though that grease had obviously never been used, it still had the consistency of beeswax.

Here is a before/after video with the left vs. right pedal. Originally both as dirty and stiff as the left.
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Old 05-29-23, 08:09 AM
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There you go!

A thread from the past that may not be specific to your situation butÖ.

overhaul-instructions-mks-3000s-3000r.html
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Old 05-29-23, 12:37 PM
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It's pretty similar. For the bearing races generally you're gonna have one half stamped in the same metal, and the other half attached. Just a game of which is which. Originally I thought mine would come apart like his, but of course learned later that it's the opposite.

Here's a picture of how the bike is coming along! I invite you to check out my main project blog here: https://www.bikeforums.net/blogger-s...back-road.html
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