Is it possible to repair this saddle?
#26
Thread Starter
Time Traveler
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 682
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From: Florida, USA
Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon (21",23"), 1985 Ross Signature 290S (25"), 1986 Nashbar Race SIS (23"), 1987 Peugeot Versailles (24.5"), 1999 GT Timberline (18")
I'm a true believer when it comes to refurbishing stuff, but I'd say the OP's saddle is long gone. Cover, foam, shell, rails...I just don't see the point.
I have recovered a number of saddles, and it went pretty much as shown in the video a couple posts back.
The leather I used was "upholstery leather" which looks like what's in the video, and is typically on the order of 2mm thick.
The original leather that I have removed from worn saddles (Concor, Flite mostly) has been about half that thickness, which goes a long way toward explaining how the factory got the corners and undersides to look so good.
The upholstery leather works OK if you are careful, and probably will last longer.
If you want to try for the original look, I'd suggest sourcing some 1mm goatskin. There are sellers on Etsy who have that sort of thing.
I have recovered a number of saddles, and it went pretty much as shown in the video a couple posts back.
The leather I used was "upholstery leather" which looks like what's in the video, and is typically on the order of 2mm thick.
The original leather that I have removed from worn saddles (Concor, Flite mostly) has been about half that thickness, which goes a long way toward explaining how the factory got the corners and undersides to look so good.
The upholstery leather works OK if you are careful, and probably will last longer.
If you want to try for the original look, I'd suggest sourcing some 1mm goatskin. There are sellers on Etsy who have that sort of thing.
Last edited by BikePower; 07-15-24 at 09:43 PM.
#27
the rails are fine. If they look bent in the photos they are not. The foam is complete and good condition except the missing part on the one corner. Sculpting is what i envision as well. If i could use a piece of cardboard as a backer i could use some kind of two part epoxy to span the broken section. Then use bondo to sculpt the contour the same as the good side. Once satisfied with that, put the original foam back on, find a scrap piece of foam for the missing section, and recover with 1mm goatskin. Dye. And install. Not sure if that is realistic.
Re the rails, sure they are straight, but pretty rusty, which for me would just be one more reason to find another saddle.
I have had pretty limited success with epoxy on plastic, even when the package says it’s for plastic. And if it’s being ridden, it’s undergoing all sorts of minor torsion pretty much constantly, so you would really need a good bond.
As for the foam, I have found it pretty hard to match the density and firmness of saddle foam, and certainly getting a seamless transition won’t be easy.
Again, not trying to talk you out of trying, just offering some observations that would lead me in a different route. YMMV.
#28
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Joined: Jan 2022
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From: Florida, USA
Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon (21",23"), 1985 Ross Signature 290S (25"), 1986 Nashbar Race SIS (23"), 1987 Peugeot Versailles (24.5"), 1999 GT Timberline (18")
I was totally speaking from my own perspective. If you want to try it, go for it. To my eyes it looks like a big challenge, especially if it’s going to be ridden. If it’s just for display that’s a different matter.
Re the rails, sure they are straight, but pretty rusty, which for me would just be one more reason to find another saddle.
I have had pretty limited success with epoxy on plastic, even when the package says it’s for plastic. And if it’s being ridden, it’s undergoing all sorts of minor torsion pretty much constantly, so you would really need a good bond.
As for the foam, I have found it pretty hard to match the density and firmness of saddle foam, and certainly getting a seamless transition won’t be easy.
Again, not trying to talk you out of trying, just offering some observations that would lead me in a different route. YMMV.
Re the rails, sure they are straight, but pretty rusty, which for me would just be one more reason to find another saddle.
I have had pretty limited success with epoxy on plastic, even when the package says it’s for plastic. And if it’s being ridden, it’s undergoing all sorts of minor torsion pretty much constantly, so you would really need a good bond.
As for the foam, I have found it pretty hard to match the density and firmness of saddle foam, and certainly getting a seamless transition won’t be easy.
Again, not trying to talk you out of trying, just offering some observations that would lead me in a different route. YMMV.
#29
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2022
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From: Florida, USA
Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon (21",23"), 1985 Ross Signature 290S (25"), 1986 Nashbar Race SIS (23"), 1987 Peugeot Versailles (24.5"), 1999 GT Timberline (18")
Wait a minute. You found a red one? And I am betting it is in far better shape. So - why not make it black. Far, far easier. Got to a cobbler and buy leather black. $8 perhaps. Apply it as many times as you need. Maybe finish with black shoe polish. Ride only with black shorts until you know it isn't going to bleed black. Done.
Leather black is incredibly black. A liquid you apply with the included cotton swab or any paint brush. (Also useful for making wood, etc. black. I use it on wood trays I make to contain music amplifier pedals and boxes. Perfect flat black for on-stage equipment. And so easy!)
I'd probably polish the seat with black shoe polish after treatment to minimize "bleed". Leather will thank you also. Especially if you use good polish like the Sappir brand.
Leather black is incredibly black. A liquid you apply with the included cotton swab or any paint brush. (Also useful for making wood, etc. black. I use it on wood trays I make to contain music amplifier pedals and boxes. Perfect flat black for on-stage equipment. And so easy!)
I'd probably polish the seat with black shoe polish after treatment to minimize "bleed". Leather will thank you also. Especially if you use good polish like the Sappir brand.



#30
Steel and Lugs

Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 37
Likes: 119
From: NorCal
Bikes: Tesch 101, 1967 Paramount Track Bike, 1976 TS Isaac, 1982 Trek 957, 1982 Trek 736, 1983 970, 1983 Trek 730, 1983 Trek 620, 1984 Trek 660, 1985 Trek 770, 1985 Trek 760, 1985 Trek 670, 1985 Trek Green 660

This lady does amazing saddle repair. She is in Belgium I believe though.
#31
shoe polish on dyed suede? Don't like the sound of that! If i was to use anything to try to "seal" the dye on a suede leather I guess maybe Fiebings leather saddle-lac or a "harder" paste wax than shoe polish. Something with a higher melting point that has some carnuba wax content...maybe...it's all an experiment at this point!
Tip: wear black shorts for the first several rides to see what happens!
Tip: wear black shorts for the first several rides to see what happens!
Last edited by unworthy1; 07-31-24 at 11:11 PM.
#32
Thread Starter
Time Traveler
Joined: Jan 2022
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From: Florida, USA
Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon (21",23"), 1985 Ross Signature 290S (25"), 1986 Nashbar Race SIS (23"), 1987 Peugeot Versailles (24.5"), 1999 GT Timberline (18")
#33
Freewheel Medic



Joined: Oct 2005
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From: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
#34
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2020
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From: Wake Forest, NC
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
shoe polish on dyed suede? Don't like the sound of that! If i was to use anything to try to "seal" the dye on a suede leather I guess maybe Fiebings leather saddle-lac or a "harder" paste wax than shoe polish. Something with a higher melting point that has some carnuba wax content...maybe...it's all an experiment at this point!
Tip: wear black shorts for the first several rides to see what happens!
Tip: wear black shorts for the first several rides to see what happens!
Angelus Black Leather Paint
#35
Thread Starter
Time Traveler
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 682
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From: Florida, USA
Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon (21",23"), 1985 Ross Signature 290S (25"), 1986 Nashbar Race SIS (23"), 1987 Peugeot Versailles (24.5"), 1999 GT Timberline (18")
#36
Freewheel Medic



Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,578
Likes: 3,327
From: An Island on the Coast of GA!
Bikes: Snazzy* Schwinns, Classy Cannondales & a Super Pro Aero Lotus (* Ed.)
Didn't see that picture. So now I'm a bit confused.
__________________
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
Bob
Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
#37
Thread Starter
Time Traveler
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 682
Likes: 158
From: Florida, USA
Bikes: 1983 Ross Paragon (21",23"), 1985 Ross Signature 290S (25"), 1986 Nashbar Race SIS (23"), 1987 Peugeot Versailles (24.5"), 1999 GT Timberline (18")
Wait a minute. You found a red one? And I am betting it is in far better shape. So - why not make it black. Far, far easier. Got to a cobbler and buy leather black. $8 perhaps. Apply it as many times as you need. Maybe finish with black shoe polish....
... I'd probably polish the seat with black shoe polish after treatment to minimize "bleed". Leather will thank you also. Especially if you use good polish like the Sappir brand.
... I'd probably polish the seat with black shoe polish after treatment to minimize "bleed". Leather will thank you also. Especially if you use good polish like the Sappir brand.

Couldnt be happier with it.

Perfecto!

Fiebling leather dye and Kiwi shoe polish. Standard shoe polishing protocol. Turned out flawless.

Mint. Never mounted. Virgin. Waiting for me since the 1980s.

Nos from the Netherlands, wrong color, $165 to my door, 2 weeks waiting, totally worth it.

I thought about restoring it.

Im glad I decided not to and I appreciate the support from 79 on recoloring the nos one.








