My old Spectrum was a bare bones version.

No pump peg. Funny enough, the previous owner had a Silca pump that was painted to match the bike, it looks amazing.

I’ve used the zip tie around the head tube trick. It works. I’d much prefer to just have a nipple on that part of the tube. So when the pump is on, it’s indistinguishable from one that’s brazed on.

i think I could carve it out of a chunk of plastic and mount it with 2 sided tape or epoxy if I really liked my handiwork.

Before I go through the effort, is there any available pump peg/nipple that I can just glue into place? Or even 3d print at the library?

I don’t want one that clamps around the frame. I want to stick it in place.

I'm with you all the way, no C+V is complete without a Silca, especially when its a paint to match.... this one looks great.

This one looks to be a bit short, was it on the ST to begin with?

You might be able to JB Weld a braze on nib if you make a bare spot for it, I would/might drill a small hole in the nib and HT and use a pin with JB but the pump has to be well spring loaded to stay in place.

Proceed with caution and good luck.

I would also consider these for the bottle cage.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop....php?id=103403

They drill holes in the front of head tubes to screw-on a head badge . . .

I think I would see if it fits the seatube instead of toptube mount modifications of such a pretty rolling stead. I don’t think any adherence short of brazing would withstand the constant pressure of the spring and road vibration as a long term solution. Could run oneself into an unsafe conditions.

Zéfal makes a plastic clamp pump peg that won't damage the paint:

https://bikerecyclery.com/nos-zefal-...road-mtb-pair/

Maybe you can mount it vertically along the seat tube. Pump head down at BB, pressue fit at seat tube/top tube juncture. That may have been where it originally belonged. Might need to get rid if that other stuff attached to seat tube.
I have a Silca on my bike.

This bike, like yours, doesn’t have a water bottle cage on the seat tube. The mounts on the pic are zip tied and I’ve already removed them.

The pump does fit vertically.

The paint scheme seems to work perfectly for a top tube mount. It’s rather seamless that way. If I put it on the seat tube, we’d have contrasting black and gold. Maybe that’s ok. When I get home, ill switch it up and see if it offends my eyes.

That pic is a few years old. It currently has “OEM” black grips, tan wall tires, white cables, and white leather bar tape. As it had in the mid 80’s. Just trying to get the pump done for a proper garage queen.

No way I'd give up a water bottle to mount a Silca pump on the seat tube. Get the Zefal pump peg and call it good, then you won't need velcro straps.

There’s some truth to that statement.

For now, I don’t see riding this bike more than 30 miles at a time. Enough for single bottle. I have so many other bikes in my garage if I want to ride further.

The picture was taken prior to a solo century I did with it, because I knew that this bike had never been on a ride that far and I thought it should. It was a great ride.

I have used JB Weld to attach to the head tube an aluminum nub that fabricated. It lasted about 1,000 miles before falling off. I'm not sure whether the epoxy failed or the paint since they were a similar shade of gray. I like the idea of drilling and tapping a hole, then using loctite to install a small zerk fitting.
I bet @bulgie has an even more elegant solution.
Brent

this isn't the solution you were looking for, but might be a fall-back option.
I just used a standard umbrella clip on the top tube, although I did have to build up the top tube diameter a bit with some thick, clear protective tape.



Your pump looks like it might be a bit too long to work well with this configuration, though.

Steve in Peoria

Rear triangle to the QR?

Top

That could be the most elegant solution ^

I have pump pegs bonded to the head tube on a bike using JB Weld. Been on the bike for about 10 years. I did remove the paint on the head tube where is is bonded as JB Weld works best with metal to metal surfaces. The pump peg came from QBP through the local bike shop that I worked in part time. Not sure they still do fame bits. Keep in mind almost anything can be used as a pump peg, but if using JB Weld use a metal one.

No pictures yet.

Last night I swapped the pump from the top tube to the seat tube. It does fit perfectly. In fact, it’s a lot tighter fit than on the top tube.

The black handle with the gold body matches the length of the black fade to gold on the frame in a horizontal position.

Vertically, the chrome head is hidden behind the crank, and the black handle just sort of sticks out. The seat tube transitions to black while the pump remains gold along its length.

It does not look as good. It doesn’t look bad, but not as good as the top tube. I’ll get some pics tomorrow. It probably looks good enough to avoid drilling into the frame or adding epoxy. Maybe I’ll leave it in place for a while and see if I can get used to it.

I have the same problem on one of my bikes. Don't want to lose the ST bottle - thought about drilling and tapping the headtube, but the wall is too thin to thread IMO., and I wouldn't trust any adhesive to hold. I'm using a velcro strap at the TT, it holds my Zefal HPx securely but I don't like its looks...

The easy, no-paint fix - but ... skill is required. Drill and tap the back of the head tube. Take a SS pan head screw and grind or better turn the head down to pump peg size. (Use one for e 3mm Allen, not 4mm.) Screw in. Done.

Years from now when it is paint time, back out that screw and have a framebuilder braze on a ball bearing. Locating hole is already there! My Peter Mooney got exactly that a couple of years ago when I had a very nice paint job done after braze-ons, minor 50k mile stuff ... by Dave Levy, Ti Cycles. Got the bike back and started building it up. "Shoot! I forgot the pump peg." Called Dave, not expecting what I wanted to hear but he said he could do what I just outlined. Cool! But, I'd have to leave the bike. Not for the time needed but for the proper headspace to locate the hole and drill and tap a round tube with beautiful paint and get it right.

I brought the bike in on a quiet morning. Dave was feeling it and did it while I waited. Perfect. Cost me a half hour of shop time, so an expensive drill and tap but well worth it.

Edit: The Mooney did not get a pump peg new because I was already an HP fan for life. And Zephal HPs didn't have frame fit pump handles. Also, that was one year after my head injury. Money was very tight. Peter Mooney was just starting out and his prices were unheard of low but still, I ordered the bike with just extras that were cost effective over say the next three years. (Cantilevers. $35 for braze-ons, $30 for Mafac calipers, $30 for very nice Mafac 2000 levers. Just cables and pads for the next 25k miles.) Oh, the Campy seatpin sucked with the brake housing hanger and several years later, my Peugeot UO-8 pin became available and went on for the next two decades. Almost 75k miles on that pin!

I have done it with a hole tapped M3 (small hole, under 1/8"). Advantage is no paint touch-up needed.
I used an adjuster screw from a horizontal dropout, cut the head off to have a very short piece of "all thread", and threaded on the knurled nut that Campy and many others used on those adjusters. With Loctite, natch.
Campy at some point (~1980?) stopped using a metal nut, switched to a plastic abomination, so definitely get a metal one. They were made by plenty of others too like Suntour, Gipiemme, Tecnociclo etc.
The look is not objectionable with the pump off, and of course disappears when the pump is installed

I don't have a bike with that now, so no pics.

I ran a Silca on the Montello for a number of rides under the TT using the nub on the HT. I stopped when my leg accidently pushed the pump off the bike. Another time it bounced off as a result of a hard bump. The compression was reasonably good, not too loose.

Now I carry CO2 units in a small container with other tools for flats and maybe a couple of key Allen wrenches and a screwdriver.

Cable stops under the TT don't help.

I’m being vain with my bike since I have a lovely matching pump.

I think you are trying to put a square peg in a round hole there. Maybe ditch the frame pump altogether and just use a bag with some CO2 and a TPU tube. It’ll look a lot nicer than trying to cram a pump into your cable stops.

I think the vertical position is growing on me.

Also, the handle doesn’t have much of a divot, even with a proper peg, it wouldn’t be secure without straps.

Looks great vertically! Fits where it was designed to fit, looks clean, no drilling, clamping or gluing. Enjoy that great-looking bike! If you need more water, most jerseys have 3 pockets
(extra points for what looks like white cotton tape wrapped top to bottom?)

You may be right. I'm not a fan of CO2, perhaps I'll try a minipump on the DT bottle bosses.
BTW, yours is a great looking bike.

Leather top to bottom.

From a brand called Gusti. It’s not one piece, it’s got a few splices but they did a good job with it at much lower price than Brooks. It came with cork caps for the bars. I didn’t use them, I thought it detracts from the clean look.