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Which direction for vintage build???
I recently got a Raleigh International frameset from @marnar. It is a bit rough with an ugly rattle can paint job, but there is only minimal surface rust and the chrome is decent. Typically, with this type I build them up and ride them for a while before refinishing. For this project I have some parts that I intend on using; a Mavic Competition brakeset that has full hooded levers with the fat adjusters and bar end shifters (probably, Suntour).
I have a couple of options for the build.
Any suggestions, inputs or comments would be greatly appreciated. Sorry, the only picture I had handy was of the international. Thanks & regards, Van AKA Senior Ryder 00 https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...936f261c3d.jpg |
Mavic did market brakes... but they were short reach and recess nut attachment as I recall. not Raleigh international friendly.
even for Campagnolo brakes way back a drop bolt was required, marginal without. different problem with the rear triangle, original was 120mm spacing. test, don't guess. |
One man's sacrilege is another's salvation. I like the Mafac Competitions and Ultegra derailleurs for it. Here's some ideas that I played out on mine. I started true-ish to original which was fine but not suited to the riding I wanted to do on it. In it's randonneuse phase it had a modern 2x10 drive train, Mafac Racers followed by Competitions, 700 x 36 tires, fenders and a front bag. It was my favorite setup for that bike. I got a chrome 1970 Professional frame and moved everything over, and the International became a lightweight interpretation of a Raleigh Sports for commuting and shopping. Now beicster has it and it's continuing to spark joy. As others have said, the International is a great canvas for many types of builds, and not so precious or rare that you should hesitate to make it into what suits you. Have fun and post pictures.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7f90901c9f.jpg |
For last weekend's '71 Int'l project, I went with a simple build, using parts on hand, including rear wheel with a SRAM two-speed hub:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...364a4cb267.jpg That was mostly to determine how it rode, so how wide tires it might fit (700 x 38!), just get it under me as a bike. I have others from the era that are built with derailleurs, friction shifters, etc., so I'll likely leave this one as is for a while. |
My vote goes for option 1. Ultegra drivetrain and what ever other parts you have or can easily get for it. Originality and period correctness is great, but I think you have those bases covered already.
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I also suggest Option 1 for a different reason. You want to be able to build up and ride the frame for a couple of months (at least) to see if you like it. If not, there's no point in going all-out in any direction; strip the parts back off it and move it along. If you do like it and think it's a keeper, then you can start making more permanent decisions re parts and finishes.
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Eeyore got whatever made it most flexible to ride…suggestions by others on here.
Compact Campy crank and 8 speed fun! Mafac Racer brakes (not pleased so far)…and a cockpit built for relaxed stance. It really is a fun bike to experiment with. Not sure how your year might differ though… |
I now own the bike Andy S posted above and it’s built up with Ultegra 6500 triple parts. My first order of business is to always build a bike I can ride in the hills around here. I support your desire to make it functional and can highly recommend the Ultegra parts. This one rides great.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d32e465a4.jpeg |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 23600177)
To be fair, the 1975 catalog calls the Super Tourer color aqua green. It is the same color as my 1974 that is called chartreuse. |
Originally Posted by beicster
(Post 23600392)
I don't normally quote pictures but that is the point here. I own three Raleigh bikes from the first half of the 1970's that are "chartreuse" . I put that in quotes because none of the three are the same color. And, this one is different than my three. Neal, do you know if this is the original paint?
To be fair, the 1975 catalog calls the Super Tourer color aqua green. It is the same color as my 1974 that is called chartreuse. |
Thanks folks,
I was leaning towards a quick & easy build so I could get some miles in before the rain starts. Just wanted to make sure I didn’t start something very difficult. BTW, the rear spacing is 127 & the alignment is good. Cheers, Van |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 23600402)
Nope, not original color, Andy. It’s a quality repaint though fairly fragile and quite scuffed up at this point. Part of the charm.
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Raleigh International is a top-notch classic frame, and very versatile. Great base upon which to build whatever suits your needs and fancy. I like the idea of a 3x7 transmission, 700Cx32 tires (sorry, tyres), barcons, and a decent set of brakes that can actually stop you in an emergency. I know it's C&V sacrilege, but I also favor aero brake levers for the additional 15% leverage, maybe no a big deal for those with larger and stronger hands than mine. This is most likely the direction I am going to with the 1962 Carlton Franco-Suisse or even the repainted 1960 Capo Sieger (keeping its un-repainted littermate more original). I love old racing bikes like the Capo and old touring bikes like the Carlton because of their generous clearances and overall versatility. The Raleigh International fits right in with that group.
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Originally Posted by John E
(Post 23601695)
I know it's C&V sacrilege, but I also favor aero brake levers for the additional 15% leverage, maybe no a big deal for those with larger and stronger hands than mine.
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I've rebuilt my International in various different ways. I agree with the others who call it a nice blank canvas. To me, the important things are the choices of saddle and handlebars and getting them in good positions. They are more important than the drivetrain and brakes.
I use mine as a commuting bike, so it has a dynamo front hub, a rear rack with a basket, and all other sorts of practical considerations. I built a 36-spoke rear wheel out of an old Dura Ace hub and Sun CR18 rims. It's a bit heavy, but I want it to be reliable. And then in contradiction to all of the practicality, I am riding Continental GP 5000 tires in 32 mm. They're prone to punctures, but I like the way they ride. I have a very long-running "blog" about this bike here. It needs updating. |
I agree with the others that a parts bin build to get a feel for it may be the way to go. Whilst most of us love Ultegra kit I doubt the brakes would fit this, but I definitely consider 600 EX longer reach brakes and a mid '80s Suntour RD as it would shift better and like the brakes, look like reasonable midlife upgrades, when it comes time to really build a rider. That is unless you want a completely original
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Personally, I really like the way that the bike looks........Given that, for me a mix of manufacturers in your second list would be appropriate.
."Old"Warriors never die, they just find new owners. Best, Ben |
Hi folks,
Thanks for the advice & support. The only parts that I am set on using is a very nice Mafac Competition brake set. I have that an “indexing” freewheel and a KMZ chain works best for me on vintage bikes regardless gear train. Time to start collecting parts. Probably the only thing I don’t have on hand is bar tape.😉 Cheers, Van |
The Raleigh International is a classic. I vote for the Campagnolo Rally drivetrain, Mafac Competition brakes, and perhaps a Stronglight triple of some sort. The Dura Ace kit would be quieter, but not nearly as suitable.
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