Which direction for vintage build???
#1
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Old bikes, Older guy


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From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Which direction for vintage build???
I recently got a Raleigh International frameset from @marnar. It is a bit rough with an ugly rattle can paint job, but there is only minimal surface rust and the chrome is decent. Typically, with this type I build them up and ride them for a while before refinishing. For this project I have some parts that I intend on using; a Mavic Competition brakeset that has full hooded levers with the fat adjusters and bar end shifters (probably, Suntour).
I have a couple of options for the build.
Any suggestions, inputs or comments would be greatly appreciated. Sorry, the only picture I had handy was of the international.
Thanks & regards,
Van
AKA Senior Ryder 00

I have a couple of options for the build.
- My bins contain a lot Ultegra parts; 6500, 6600 & some 6700 which I could use for what would be a better functioning bike. Some might consider this sacrilege.
- The other option is to strip the components off of my only custom built bike. It’s sport tourer from 79 or 80. The frame was made by Will Sampson, who was a contemporary of Tom Ritchey and possibly one of Eisentraut’s students. I originally built it with the components of my early 70s Raleigh Competition including the GB stem and Rando bars. In the mid 80s I upgraded the drive train to Campagnolo Rally components. About the same time, I built a wheelset with Sunshine Hi-lo sealed bearing hubs. Sometime later it acquired what appears to a Campagnolo Super Record brakeset. Up until recently this was a regular rider.
- Another potential project/option would be to build up the International with somewhat period correct parts; Campagnolo, Mafac, Sunshine, etc. Since I already have a later Campagnolo front wheel & 10 speed bar end shifters, use my better Shimano stuff to barter, trade, sell to do a Campagnolo based resto-mod on the Sampson.
Any suggestions, inputs or comments would be greatly appreciated. Sorry, the only picture I had handy was of the international.
Thanks & regards,
Van
AKA Senior Ryder 00

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#2
Senior Member


Joined: Jun 2006
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Mavic did market brakes... but they were short reach and recess nut attachment as I recall. not Raleigh international friendly.
even for Campagnolo brakes way back a drop bolt was required, marginal without.
different problem with the rear triangle, original was 120mm spacing.
test, don't guess.
even for Campagnolo brakes way back a drop bolt was required, marginal without.
different problem with the rear triangle, original was 120mm spacing.
test, don't guess.
#3
Senior Member



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From: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Bikes: 2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1992 Paramount PDG Series, 1991 Mercian King of Mercia, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 1969? Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Pro Mk I
One man's sacrilege is another's salvation. I like the Mafac Competitions and Ultegra derailleurs for it. Here's some ideas that I played out on mine. I started true-ish to original which was fine but not suited to the riding I wanted to do on it. In it's randonneuse phase it had a modern 2x10 drive train, Mafac Racers followed by Competitions, 700 x 36 tires, fenders and a front bag. It was my favorite setup for that bike. I got a chrome 1970 Professional frame and moved everything over, and the International became a lightweight interpretation of a Raleigh Sports for commuting and shopping. Now beicster has it and it's continuing to spark joy. As others have said, the International is a great canvas for many types of builds, and not so precious or rare that you should hesitate to make it into what suits you. Have fun and post pictures.


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2025 Lynskey Elysium, 2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1991 Mercian King of Mercia, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Pro Mk I, 1969? Falcon San Remo
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
2025 Lynskey Elysium, 2024 A Homer Hilsen, 1991 Mercian King of Mercia, 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Pro Mk I, 1969? Falcon San Remo
Curator/Team Mechanic: 2016 Dawes Streetfighter, 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1975 Motobecane Jubile Mixte, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Free Spirit Ted Williams, 1972 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Philips Sport
#4
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For last weekend's '71 Int'l project, I went with a simple build, using parts on hand, including rear wheel with a SRAM two-speed hub:

That was mostly to determine how it rode, so how wide tires it might fit (700 x 38!), just get it under me as a bike. I have others from the era that are built with derailleurs, friction shifters, etc., so I'll likely leave this one as is for a while.

That was mostly to determine how it rode, so how wide tires it might fit (700 x 38!), just get it under me as a bike. I have others from the era that are built with derailleurs, friction shifters, etc., so I'll likely leave this one as is for a while.
#5
Senior Member

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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: Trek 800 x 2, Schwinn Heavy Duti, Schwinn Traveler, Schwinn Le Tour Luxe, Schwinn Continental, Cannondale M400 and Lambert, Schwinn Super Sport
My vote goes for option 1. Ultegra drivetrain and what ever other parts you have or can easily get for it. Originality and period correctness is great, but I think you have those bases covered already.
#6
Crawlin' up, flyin' down


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From: Democratic Peoples' Republic of Berkeley
Bikes: 1967 Paramount; 1982-ish Ron Cooper; 1978 Eisentraut "A"; two mid-1960s Cinelli Speciale Corsas; and others in various stages of non-rideability.
I also suggest Option 1 for a different reason. You want to be able to build up and ride the frame for a couple of months (at least) to see if you like it. If not, there's no point in going all-out in any direction; strip the parts back off it and move it along. If you do like it and think it's a keeper, then you can start making more permanent decisions re parts and finishes.
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"I'm in shape -- round is a shape." Andy Rooney
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#7
Edumacator




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From: Goose Creek, SC
Bikes: More than the people who ride them...oy.
Eeyore got whatever made it most flexible to ride…suggestions by others on here.
Compact Campy crank and 8 speed fun! Mafac Racer brakes (not pleased so far)…and a cockpit built for relaxed stance.
It really is a fun bike to experiment with. Not sure how your year might differ though…
Compact Campy crank and 8 speed fun! Mafac Racer brakes (not pleased so far)…and a cockpit built for relaxed stance.
It really is a fun bike to experiment with. Not sure how your year might differ though…
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1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750
1987 Crest C'dale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin EL, 1990 Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Isoard, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 C'dale M500, 1984 Mercian Pro, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi ?, 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh Internat'l, 1998 Corratec U+D, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone, 1987 Bianchi Volpe, 1995 Trek 750
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Jan 2017
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From: Berea, KY
I now own the bike Andy S posted above and it’s built up with Ultegra 6500 triple parts. My first order of business is to always build a bike I can ride in the hills around here. I support your desire to make it functional and can highly recommend the Ultegra parts. This one rides great.


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Andy
Andy
#9
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From: Berea, KY
I don't normally quote pictures but that is the point here. I own three Raleigh bikes from the first half of the 1970's that are "chartreuse" . I put that in quotes because none of the three are the same color. And, this one is different than my three. Neal, do you know if this is the original paint?
To be fair, the 1975 catalog calls the Super Tourer color aqua green. It is the same color as my 1974 that is called chartreuse.
To be fair, the 1975 catalog calls the Super Tourer color aqua green. It is the same color as my 1974 that is called chartreuse.
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Andy
Andy
#10
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I don't normally quote pictures but that is the point here. I own three Raleigh bikes from the first half of the 1970's that are "chartreuse" . I put that in quotes because none of the three are the same color. And, this one is different than my three. Neal, do you know if this is the original paint?
To be fair, the 1975 catalog calls the Super Tourer color aqua green. It is the same color as my 1974 that is called chartreuse.
To be fair, the 1975 catalog calls the Super Tourer color aqua green. It is the same color as my 1974 that is called chartreuse.
#11
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Thanks folks,
I was leaning towards a quick & easy build so I could get some miles in before the rain starts. Just wanted to make sure I didn’t start something very difficult. BTW, the rear spacing is 127 & the alignment is good.
Cheers,
Van
I was leaning towards a quick & easy build so I could get some miles in before the rain starts. Just wanted to make sure I didn’t start something very difficult. BTW, the rear spacing is 127 & the alignment is good.
Cheers,
Van
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#12
Senior Member


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From: Berea, KY
#13
feros ferio

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From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Raleigh International is a top-notch classic frame, and very versatile. Great base upon which to build whatever suits your needs and fancy. I like the idea of a 3x7 transmission, 700Cx32 tires (sorry, tyres), barcons, and a decent set of brakes that can actually stop you in an emergency. I know it's C&V sacrilege, but I also favor aero brake levers for the additional 15% leverage, maybe no a big deal for those with larger and stronger hands than mine. This is most likely the direction I am going to with the 1962 Carlton Franco-Suisse or even the repainted 1960 Capo Sieger (keeping its un-repainted littermate more original). I love old racing bikes like the Capo and old touring bikes like the Carlton because of their generous clearances and overall versatility. The Raleigh International fits right in with that group.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
Last edited by John E; 09-06-25 at 09:35 AM.
#14
Senior Member


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From: Berea, KY
I prefer the look of old, non-aero brake levers but the added grip area and increased leverage of aero levers is hard to say no to. I currently have one drop bar bike with old style levers and I hate to do it, but I am going to have to change it out next time I am doing that level of maintenance.
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Andy
Andy
#15
aka Tom Reingold




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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
I've rebuilt my International in various different ways. I agree with the others who call it a nice blank canvas. To me, the important things are the choices of saddle and handlebars and getting them in good positions. They are more important than the drivetrain and brakes.
I use mine as a commuting bike, so it has a dynamo front hub, a rear rack with a basket, and all other sorts of practical considerations. I built a 36-spoke rear wheel out of an old Dura Ace hub and Sun CR18 rims. It's a bit heavy, but I want it to be reliable. And then in contradiction to all of the practicality, I am riding Continental GP 5000 tires in 32 mm. They're prone to punctures, but I like the way they ride.
I have a very long-running "blog" about this bike here. It needs updating.
I use mine as a commuting bike, so it has a dynamo front hub, a rear rack with a basket, and all other sorts of practical considerations. I built a 36-spoke rear wheel out of an old Dura Ace hub and Sun CR18 rims. It's a bit heavy, but I want it to be reliable. And then in contradiction to all of the practicality, I am riding Continental GP 5000 tires in 32 mm. They're prone to punctures, but I like the way they ride.
I have a very long-running "blog" about this bike here. It needs updating.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#16
Bianchi Goddess



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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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I agree with the others that a parts bin build to get a feel for it may be the way to go. Whilst most of us love Ultegra kit I doubt the brakes would fit this, but I definitely consider 600 EX longer reach brakes and a mid '80s Suntour RD as it would shift better and like the brakes, look like reasonable midlife upgrades, when it comes time to really build a rider. That is unless you want a completely original
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#17
Freshman Member



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From: City of Angels
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Personally, I really like the way that the bike looks........Given that, for me a mix of manufacturers in your second list would be appropriate.
."Old"Warriors never die, they just find new owners.
Best, Ben
."Old"Warriors never die, they just find new owners.
Best, Ben
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#18
Thread Starter
Old bikes, Older guy


Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Fiscal Conservative on the Lefty Coast - Oregon
Bikes: A few modern, Several vintage, All ridden when weather allows.
Hi folks,
Thanks for the advice & support. The only parts that I am set on using is a very nice Mafac Competition brake set. I have that an “indexing” freewheel and a KMZ chain works best for me on vintage bikes regardless gear train. Time to start collecting parts. Probably the only thing I don’t have on hand is bar tape.😉
Cheers,
Van
Thanks for the advice & support. The only parts that I am set on using is a very nice Mafac Competition brake set. I have that an “indexing” freewheel and a KMZ chain works best for me on vintage bikes regardless gear train. Time to start collecting parts. Probably the only thing I don’t have on hand is bar tape.😉
Cheers,
Van
__________________
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
Remember: Real bikes have pedals.
...and never put a yellow tail on a Red, White and Blue kite!
#19
Newbie

Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Centreville, Virginia
Bikes: 1984 Fuji Touring Series V, 1973 Nishiki Competition, 1980 Raleigh Competition GS, 1983 Trek 600, 1995 Trek 730 Multi-Track, 2010 Nashbar Touring, 2017 Velo-Orange Campeur, 2018 Stanforth Skyelander 650B
The Raleigh International is a classic. I vote for the Campagnolo Rally drivetrain, Mafac Competition brakes, and perhaps a Stronglight triple of some sort. The Dura Ace kit would be quieter, but not nearly as suitable.





