What size is it, and try www.sheldonbrown.com and search for Centurion.
The link to the article by a fine aged journalist will give you as much info as there is.
Any more specific questions can be answered by T-Mar and A. Winthrop.
And lastly, .....is it for sale?.....

Found the serial #
 

It was on the seat tube close to the bottom bracket. It is 6A267. Seems a bit short, but that is what is there. Thanks so much for all the info everyone, it is so helpful. I will post before/after pics when I fix it up and try to figure out how to repaint it.

Should I leave the old decals? Or get rid of them and just repaint the entire frame? They are kinda ratty but otherwise how would you know it is a Centurion?

Somebody in SainLouie is nuts. A Prestige is a boss bike.
I'm guessing the vomit is either the "marbled" fade or the "smoked" fade. The 1989 Ironman Expert came in the blue "smoked." The 1989 Master came in the grey "marbled," so of course we REALLY NEED to see pics of the bike.

Also, are you near I-55, which exit, what address, and which mat is the key under?

Because it's cosmic, man...:D

Ok, you guys have got me a little more motivated to fix this thing up more - I knew the Prestige was a nice bike, but you're making it seem like I got a lot more than I thought. I'll look to borrow a camera and take some pics of it soon. It's not in perfect condition by any means, as there are scratches and chips out of the paint all over. But nothing structurally wrong with it.

I overhauled the front hub tonight - first time doing any maintenance like that. It went well and this bike seems to FLY now.

The paint scheme does strike me as a white & blue 'marbled' finish. I'm trying to like the look of it...cause I definitely like riding this puppy.

And sorry Robbie, I'm not off 55, but I'll make you a deal - if you can guess my address off the top of your head, you can have the Prestige. 3 guesses only... ;)

Well, don't get too excited about the pics. As I look at other pictures of Centurions here, I finally understand why it was so hard for me to ID this bike when I first got it - a previous owner removed the 'Centurion' decal on both sides of the downtube. He took off the decals, just leaving another coat of white paint exposed underneath. I had no idea what kind of bike it was until I read enough online to recognize the large "C" logo on the headtube.

But... of course I'll still oblige with the pictures.

A.Winthrop, many many thanks to your generous advice and helpful information. I've begun reading through the wealth of information that you've linked to, and it's been a great help.

I still need to do a considerable amount of homework, and to purchase a few tools, but this is my general plan of attack:

1) Thoroughly clean the bike. This will allow me to do a detailed inspection as I move around the bike, removing the years of built up grime, grease, and dirt. I will look for any obvious issues or problems and see what is hiding under the dirt.

2) Replace the brake pads. The tires are in good shape, but the brake pads are dried out and hard. This is an important fix as the stopping power basically sucks.

3) Clean and lube bearings, pivot points, etc. This is the largest task and will take the most time, as it involves a lot of reading beforehand and then careful execution on my part.

4) Derailer, brake adjustments if necessary. Once everything is lubed and put back together, time to make any proper adjustments.

5) Cosmetic touch-ups - I am debating whether or not to touch-up the scratches in the paint, but I do want to do a wax/polish on the bike as a protectent against future gunk. Also, the saddle covering is coming loose so I will address this at that time. All this is a ways off into the future though.

I'm excited about this project, and despite being anxious to get out on the road, I want to do all of this correctly. I need telling myself to be patient. Ha.

Again, I really appreciate you taking the time to offer your advice. And to everyone else, I love seeing your bikes, and reading your own stories.

Thanks!

Kernersville is my hometown. Small world!

Centurion
 

I have a 1981 or 82 Centurion Cruiser.
I would love to know more about it if anyone has info.
The serial Number is F1S34823
Suntour components and chrome bmx style tube forks.
Its not a quality road bike, but it is a great cruiser!
Interested in manufacturer info and country of origin.
I am guessing Japan but not sure. Also interested in model name and years of production.

OK. More information now that I've gotten off my lazy ass to look at the stuff. :lol:

Year/Model: 1984 Centurion Comp TA
Serial: 4F07811
Frame size: ccTT-22"/56cm
Frame material: Tange Champion #2
Brakeset: Shimano 600 caliper/single pivot
Shift levers: Shimano 600
Front derailleur: Shimano 600, FD-6207
Rear derailleur: Shimano 600, RD-6207
Crankset: Shimano 600, 53/42, FC-6207
Pedals: Shimano M324 (still have original)
Seatpost: SR Laprade
Saddle: Turbo Bernard Hinault original suede
Handlebar: Sakae Custom Road Champion
Stem: Custom
Headset: Shimano 600 threaded
Wheelset: Araya rims on Suzue hubs, 700x23x (replaced w/Alex DA22 wheelset)
Rear freewheel/cassette: Shimano 6-sp originally, replaced with 12-28 7sp Hyperglide.
Color: Silver w/blue accents
Price: ~$300 shipped ready to ride


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3159/...1fa7d992_o.jpg

A. Winthrop,

I have the original pedals and wheelset but I had a set of M324 pedals and didn't feel like learning how to ride w/straps. Also, when I took the freewheel off the rear wheel to clean everything up and rebuild the hub and clean/regrease the bearings, one of the little pieces of metal that locks the freewheel in place came off and I haven't been able to locate it. Until I can find a complete original hub, I'm using the cheap Alex wheelset. Doesn't really feel any different when I ride it.

The wheelset that came w/the bike are 700c, but from what you're saying, I'm inferring that they aren't the stock size? In any case, the calipers say Shimano 600 on them and are single-pivot, so they are older even if they don't actually match what came on the bike stock.

Thanks for the tip on the leather. I spent 23 years in the Army, so I have some Kiwi left over. :lol:

I'll have to keep an eye out for the red TA. I would love to have a matching set.

Thanks for all of the good information.

Quick question: I find this bike incredibly "twitchy" in its ride - very unlike any of my other bikes. It's a very compliant and comfortable frame to ride but it's twitchy enough that I almost don't feel safe reaching down to the shifters while I'm riding. I've had other bikes w/downtube shifters, but don't remember feeling this way when riding them (although it was a long time ago). If it weren't for that, I would ride this all the time because of the ride quality. Would putting a stem w/a longer reach help that or is it more geometry-related?

Picked this up last week, Robbie thinks this color is fairly rare. The S/N indicates it is an '88 model.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...n_master_1.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q..._master_11.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q..._master_14.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q..._master_17.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...n_master_2.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q..._master_22.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q..._master_24.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...n_master_3.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...n_master_4.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...n_master_5.jpg

geek

I've only seen a Lemans RS in that color, and only one.

However, I think it's an '86 or '87.
Those look like the Panaracer tires that came on it, though.
If those rims are Wolbers, I'd say '86
If those rims are Araya's, I'd say '87
The reason I don't think '88 is the grouping would, I think, be Shimano 600 tri-color.

If the SN says '88, then it is a rare bird, probably the very early production run.
The '88's had a different Tange 1 sticker.

If that's an '86, you've got a rarer one than the red/white '86, mainly due to color.
It's a gem, and I'm glad it fits you.

If you need anything for that bike that I have, just let me know.

Just found the S/N: N7E5998. The rims are Wolbers, but the rear one had been replaced, it does not have the same Wolber sticker on it as the front, and it appears to be slightly wider than the front.

geek

Thanks for all that great free info, A.! I just got here from your other post. The guy I bought it from had installed the kickstand, as well as smearing a liberal coating of ARMOR ALL on the seat, tires, bar tape, and brake hoods! :roflmao2: In a way, the Ironman reminds me of my first cheap C&V find, my old '87 Nishiki Olympic 12. Sport geometry, a little rust here and there, funky pastel color, and mostly original. Very fun to ride.

geek

My 85 Prestige
 

Serial # 856006, built with six speed Dura Ace ( already removed). Apparently this was the only year that had DA components. Too bad it's too small for me.


http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...2826Medium.jpg

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...2832Medium.jpg

twitchy
 

I completely understand the "twitchy" part. The shorter wheelbase and geometry gets you forward a little more than most road bikes, even in 1983-84. The bike was made for drop riding at speed, and plenty of corners. In my experience, the Comp TA and the Ironman aren't exactly the type of bike you ride around on with no hands on the bars. They're a little :twitchy: for that. Downtube shifting requires a more steady "core" and takes a little practice.

(If you want to see it really done right, watch some guys ride criteriums with downtube shifters.)

That is one beautiful Comp TA. It will handle a long ride, no problem; but yeah, it's a little twitchy.
So is a '68 Camaro.

Hmmm. Maybe I should ride more in the drops, then. It's not something I do much at all, having gotten back into the sport/hobby/obsession fairly recently. It's not that I'm not flexible enough - just not quite as comfortable (I'm 51 so comfortable is important :lol:). I use it on the trainer more than anything else right now so twitchiness is not a factor.

Those colors are nearly identical to the Ironman of the same vintage. TL179 has one that color.

Thanks, here's a few more photos I have. I believe it's an '85. I bought it from the original owner and
he said he got it as a pro deal while working at a shop that year. My understanding is that the DA group was for that year only and then went to 600. Yes, I have all of the original parts, along with a NOS wheelset that the guy never installed. He rode a set of cheapie clinchers because he didn't want to deal with tubulars.

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...2829Medium.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...2830Medium.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...2827Medium.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...2833Medium.jpg

OK, guys, I got the Ironman in from geekrunner, Post #555 on this tread, packed quite well with no damage.
First impresssions are that someone rode the bike and took care of it, which I like.
Several pleasant surprises:

The bars are Cinelli 64-40 Giro d'Italia, which JunkYardBike may find amusing, since I just traded him for an identical one. The stem is Cinelli, 140mm. Someone had some long arms.

The brake levers are DC Gran Compe, as are those red hoods which are in great shape. The levers have permanently attached "lead" cable housing.

The calipers and the rest of the OEM group are Shimano 600 EX, the 6200 series. The stuff is in great shape and the cranks are 175, rings are BioPace 52/42.

The rims are Wolber Super Alpines, great condition, hubs the OEM 600EX, spokes great. The tires are Michelin 700x28's and they're coming off.

The saddle, as I suspected, is a cover. It is a Selle Italia Turbo cover, on top of a near NOS black suede Selle Italia Turbo saddle. Seat post is 27.0 Sugino

The frame is the standard Ironman Tange 1, with the upper sticker missing due to the Atmos frame pump that is in great shape. There is no rust, the normal wear and tear, and the only other decal missing is the headbadge. That year was pretty simple, so I'll either duplicate it or do a RobbieTunes logo there.

All in all, a nice bike, well packed and ready to be restored. It's right in line behind the Turbo frame you see earlier in this thread, and ahead of the Prestige frame you see above. A nice trio, and RobbieTunes is about tapped out.

Steve's Centurion LeMans Circa 1986
 

Bought: Circa summer of 1986, Tallahassee, Florida
Price: About $420.00 US
Make/Model: Centurion Lemans RS
Frame: Tange 2 Cro-Mo Seamless Tubing Double Butted
Color: Red w/White Downtube and Headset Tube
Serial Number Stamped
Under Crankset Tube: K1(could be an “I”) 5900 54
Forks: Tange Mangalloy 2001 Manganese Alloy
Derailleur: Shimano Light Action VIA RD-L525
Derailleur Sprockets: Shimano Centuron G-Pulley
Shifters: Shimano Indexed S424
Rear Cassette and Bearings: Shimano 600 MF-8206 Sealed-Mech
Crankset: Sugino GP-130 (Large Ring 52, Small Ring 42)
Pedals: Sugino PD-1000 (Christophe Black Nylon-Web Straps)
Rims: Araya 700cm
Hubs: Suzue Sealed-Tech (Front and Rear)
Brakes: Dia Compe Side Pull
Handle Bar: WHI Kusuki Winpista (White Strapping)
Seat Post: Sugino SP-KC
Seat: Vetta Centurion Anatomic Seat (Black Vinyl)

Wow! You got it already! I'm honored that my find is now in your well cared for stable. You'll have plenty to do this winter, as I will also.

geek

Centurion LeMans
 

Everything is original on the bike. If the crank ring is an upgrade, either the manufacturer or the bike company made the upgrade.

You asked a question but it seemed to be cut off from me - can you ask it again?