6 Or 7?
#1
6 Or 7?
The Faggin frameset that I just received has been modified to accept a 130 rear.
The frame is in great condition, and the 130 expansion was obviously done by a professional.
Big question.
I could track down a 130 compatible rear Campy hub, and run the 7 speed of the late 80's.
Is there plenty of old 7 speed stuff out there?
Is the spacing for the old school transitional hub 127? (Actual distance for the 7 speed)
I am assuming that the rear hub body is the same for the 126/130, merely axle length is the difference?
I do not really feel like re-compressing and aligning the stays back to 126 unless I have to.
Any ideas?
The frame is in great condition, and the 130 expansion was obviously done by a professional.
Big question.
I could track down a 130 compatible rear Campy hub, and run the 7 speed of the late 80's.
Is there plenty of old 7 speed stuff out there?
Is the spacing for the old school transitional hub 127? (Actual distance for the 7 speed)
I am assuming that the rear hub body is the same for the 126/130, merely axle length is the difference?
I do not really feel like re-compressing and aligning the stays back to 126 unless I have to.
Any ideas?
#3
Any fool with a 2X4, a string and a ruler can cold set a frame. I spread my Gitane from 120 to 126 the other day and it took all of five minutes. It would have taken less time if I was working with a bare frame. It wasn't the first frame I've cold set. The first one took about ten minutes. You have to get a feel for how hard to push.
I kind of like seven speeds. The cassetes last longer because they're thicker. The rear wheel is stronger because it has less dish. I haven't had any trouble finding parts cheap. Most people consider seven speed stuff obsolete and shops are glad to get rid of it. I've got two seven speed bikes, one nine, two five and one one.
I kind of like seven speeds. The cassetes last longer because they're thicker. The rear wheel is stronger because it has less dish. I haven't had any trouble finding parts cheap. Most people consider seven speed stuff obsolete and shops are glad to get rid of it. I've got two seven speed bikes, one nine, two five and one one.
#4
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,398
Likes: 1,865
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
If you want to use vintage hubs and screw-on freewheels, go with 7 speeds. If you want to use a freehub, go with 9. Friction shifting works great with either.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
Likes: 12
From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
8 speed, works with either cassette or freewheel talk about confusing!
marty
marty
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#6
Yep, in the process of getting Nuovo/Super hubset 28 or 32 (whatever comes along), most are 126, but some are 127+ for the short lived 7 speed.
Since the frame has already been opened up, I am partial to some wider hubs, and wanted to get a feeling about availability from the forum.
If I end up getting some 126ers, I will just run 6 speed, and compress the stays. Installing a 130 compatible axle is an option, but I will already be in to $150.00+ already.
130s PLEASE!!
I dug Super Record F/R derailleurs, NOS Modolo brakes, Concor saddle, NOS Mavic Gp4 (28-32) from my junk pile, but need some cranks. What cool cranks would be correct for my mid 80's Faggin, as the Campy stuff for the build is '83, and getting SR cranks is a real hassle nowadays.
Any ideas?
Since the frame has already been opened up, I am partial to some wider hubs, and wanted to get a feeling about availability from the forum.
If I end up getting some 126ers, I will just run 6 speed, and compress the stays. Installing a 130 compatible axle is an option, but I will already be in to $150.00+ already.
130s PLEASE!!
I dug Super Record F/R derailleurs, NOS Modolo brakes, Concor saddle, NOS Mavic Gp4 (28-32) from my junk pile, but need some cranks. What cool cranks would be correct for my mid 80's Faggin, as the Campy stuff for the build is '83, and getting SR cranks is a real hassle nowadays.
Any ideas?
#7
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,398
Likes: 1,865
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
How about either a Nervar Star or a Stronglight crankset as a period-correct, high-quality, good-looking, lower-priced alternative to Campagnolo? You could also "cheat" with a vintage Campag.-clone Sugino crankset.
As for the rear axle, I would vote for 130mm with your 6-speed freewheel. Stacking a bunch of spacers on the LEFT side of the axle would then enable you to reduce the rear wheel dish significantly.
As for the rear axle, I would vote for 130mm with your 6-speed freewheel. Stacking a bunch of spacers on the LEFT side of the axle would then enable you to reduce the rear wheel dish significantly.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#10
Originally Posted by Erzulis Boat
Thanks- sounds like a plan. I will check into some Stronglights, they seem to still be around.
Where were Nervar manufactured?
Thanks.
Where were Nervar manufactured?
Thanks.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 808
Likes: 11
From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by unworthy1
The "new" Stronglights are still around, but the old ones are getting a little harder to find (for me) same with the chainrings, which used to be sort of cheap, but sort of soft and prone to wear more quickly than others. I'd stay away from Nervar, not because they're French, but because they have a unique BCD that's very hard to find chainrings to fit...otherwise, I like the look of them, but...You could cheat a little and get a Mavic "starfish" crank, a little later than '84, but very stylish and durable. As far as the "2nd-string" Italian cranks, I've been very pleased with Galli and Gipiemme, a little less with Ofmega (also sold as Avocet in the US) and I think the Sugino "Mighty" clone is just fine.







