new components on an old bike?
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,066
Likes: 2,153
From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-1977 Univega Grand Rally, S LTD, 1973 Sears Free Spirit 531, 197? FW Evans
The biggest issue will probably be the rear hub spacing. Bikes of that age usually had 126mm spacing, while today's standard for road bikes is 130mm. Some bikes are flexible enough that it doesn't matter, but others will need their frames spread apart. This only works if you have a steel frame. Aluminum weakens severely when bending in this manner. See Sheldon Brown's site about "cold setting".
Another thing is brake reach. If the bike has 27" wheels and you change to 700C, the original brakes MAY work, but if you change to modern wheels and brakes, the brakes may not reach the rims. Most older frames had a larger clearance between the frame and tire, so the brakes had a longer reach. Newer frames are so tight that the brake reach is quite small.
Another thing is brake reach. If the bike has 27" wheels and you change to 700C, the original brakes MAY work, but if you change to modern wheels and brakes, the brakes may not reach the rims. Most older frames had a larger clearance between the frame and tire, so the brakes had a longer reach. Newer frames are so tight that the brake reach is quite small.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
the rear spacing on the bike is 127mm and the wheel size is 700c. i read about cold setting, but i think because 127 is so close to 130, i probably wouldn't have to do it. if these are the only issues, then i'm pretty excited to get my bike.
#4
40 something and counting
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 422
Likes: 1
From: dallas/ft.worth texas
Bikes: Colnago,Tsunami, Kestrel, Univega
Having built up several older frames with new parts, there will be an issue or two as others have already pointed out....but for every issue, there is a solution.......enjoy the new ride, and if you run into problems, check these forums.....everyone around here has lots of good solutions and advice.
Mark
Mark
#5
Hi,
what you do depends on your budget. I suggest picking up 8 speed stuff
on ebay if you want cheap; you can still find some NOS from time to time.
You will get the biggest bang from new wheels.
I like bar end shifters, Biomax bars, and gel tape.
If you don't need to rush, you can find a piece here and a piece there cheap.
You could even consider going Camp without paying through the nose.
what you do depends on your budget. I suggest picking up 8 speed stuff
on ebay if you want cheap; you can still find some NOS from time to time.
You will get the biggest bang from new wheels.
I like bar end shifters, Biomax bars, and gel tape.
If you don't need to rush, you can find a piece here and a piece there cheap.
You could even consider going Camp without paying through the nose.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: Willimantic, Connecticut
Bikes: '70s Puch sport tourer, '90 Peugeot Success.
My '80s(?) Puch is completely upgraded (including triple) with '90s parts except for the fork & there were no problems. The 7 spd cassette i believe is original. Long reach 105 brakes from Shimano may still be available.
#8
Yet another vegan biker
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 965
Likes: 6
From: Trapped behind the corn curtain
Bikes: Sakae Prism, Vintage Fuji bike(S), too many bikes, one from scratch bike.
Another thing is brake reach. If the bike has 27" wheels and you change to 700C, the original brakes MAY work, but if you change to modern wheels and brakes, the brakes may not reach the rims.
I have very good results going from 27' to 700c, and often swap around a set of 700c's with my old bikes.




