Cleaning Chrome
#2
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From: 40205 'ViLLeBiLLie
Bikes: Sngl Spd's, 70's- 80's vintage, D-tube Folder
Steel wool will clean it up at first but eventually make the problem worse.
Dont use steel wool !!!
One thing I have found is to let oil sit on the rust for a while and just wipe
it off. For whats left over, put a little oil or WD-40 on the dull side of a piece of
aluminum foil and lightly scrub.
Dont use steel wool !!!
One thing I have found is to let oil sit on the rust for a while and just wipe
it off. For whats left over, put a little oil or WD-40 on the dull side of a piece of
aluminum foil and lightly scrub.
#3
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From: On the road-USA
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
I wipe on a thin coat of oil, let it sit. To polish the chrome I use Simichrome polish. This is some of the best stuff I have ever found. I have been using it for over 30 years. I try other stuff and go right back to it
Aaron
Aaron
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ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#4
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From: NW Ohio
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-1977 Univega Grand Rally, S LTD, 1973 Sears Free Spirit 531, 197? FW Evans
I have an old can of Simoniz chrome polish from the days of chrome bumpers. My mother-in-law gave it to me when she was cleaning out her garage after my father-in-law passed away. You just wipe it on and let dry, then buff it out. I have brought back some pretty nasty looking rims with it.
#5
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From: Ashland, VA
Bikes: The keepers: 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Twenty, 3 - 1986 Rossins.
Good old Turtle Wax chrome polish - been using it since the late 60's. Dosen't matter if you're talking Raleigh or Harley, works just fine.
Syke
Deranged Few M/C
Syke
Deranged Few M/C
#6
Simoniz, Turtlewax, these have a fine abrasive and petroleum distillates. Simichrome, Flitz, etc. have no abrasives but use oxalic acid. Never Dull, Red Bear "waddings" use unknown-to-me active ingredients, but I'm sure there is some kind of distillate as well as oxalic acid infused in cotton wool. I like the waddings best, and after I buff up the chrome/nickel/whatever I apply an automotive wax to protect it. I will resort to ULTRA fine steel wool (0000) lubed with oil when the pitting is bad and I don't agree that THAT makes it worse later. Once you get pitting the plating has been partially lost so rust WILL return if you don't protect whatever is left. The aluminum foil trick is a "trick" that deposits a bit of aluminum over the rough rusted spot, when it works and IF it works...I don't play that.
#7
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From: Directly above the center of the earth
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Hi unworthy 1!
I must politely disagree with you on your opinion of wadded aluminum foil for removing rust from chrome. The aluminum, being softer than the chrome but harder than the rust, actually removes the rust from the chrome. It also fills in any pitts and makes the chrome look smooth again. I've used this trick on many chrome-plated steel surfaces with excellent results.
In any case, I agree with protecting what's left of the chrome after derusting.
I must politely disagree with you on your opinion of wadded aluminum foil for removing rust from chrome. The aluminum, being softer than the chrome but harder than the rust, actually removes the rust from the chrome. It also fills in any pitts and makes the chrome look smooth again. I've used this trick on many chrome-plated steel surfaces with excellent results.
In any case, I agree with protecting what's left of the chrome after derusting.
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#8
Mr. Maximan1
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Bikes: Puch Superleicht, Nishiki moutain project, Trek 2300 carbon composite
I do to the doller store and buy this cheap "Wheel Cleaner" stuff. I sprayed it on one of my rusty wheels and the rust just slid off. I later polished it off with my metal polisher. It works miracles (the wheel cleaner stuff).
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#9
OK FarHorizon, I stand corrected. Maybe I shall give it another chance. I still like Never Dull wadding best of all, but I try to never let rust get the upper hand on my chrome. When refurbing old bikes that isn't possible.
#10
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From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
I prefer brass wool over steel wool, it's softer and
causes less scratching if you need to go that route.
causes less scratching if you need to go that route.
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#11
What does the "light coat of oil do?" Should one brush with it with a soft-bristle brush, say, or just wipe it off?
What if there's pitting and the chrome's peeling? Can one strip it away a bit and then treat the rust, or just leave it as is?
What if there's pitting and the chrome's peeling? Can one strip it away a bit and then treat the rust, or just leave it as is?
#12
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From: On the road-USA
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Originally Posted by peripatetic
What does the "light coat of oil do?" Should one brush with it with a soft-bristle brush, say, or just wipe it off?
What if there's pitting and the chrome's peeling? Can one strip it away a bit and then treat the rust, or just leave it as is?
What if there's pitting and the chrome's peeling? Can one strip it away a bit and then treat the rust, or just leave it as is?
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#13
i really like never-dull wadding pad too. Autosol is also pretty awesome stuff and works as well or better on alluminum than chrome. i would use brass wool that everone talkabout but I can't find it fine enough. The super fine 0000 steel wool does work wonders and it is SOOO fine I can't really see any scratching effect.
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1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
#14
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: San Jose, ca.
Bikes: 2006 Orbea Volata, 84 Trek 760, 83 Trek 720,
Originally Posted by wahoonc
I wipe on a thin coat of oil, let it sit. To polish the chrome I use Simichrome polish. This is some of the best stuff I have ever found. I have been using it for over 30 years. I try other stuff and go right back to it
Aaron
Aaron

I have to agree on the Simichrome. Best stuff I've ever used. For rust removel I sometimes use a paintbrush of Naval Jelly, then wipe, then hit it with the simichrome.
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#15
Originally Posted by wahoonc
The oil gets into the rust and helps stop it. It also restore the painted surface shine. If the chrome is peeling not much can be done about it. I just got my wife's "new" 1970 Raleigh Colt, I will try and take before and after pictures for you. It is basically in "as found" condition. I apply oil with a rag, wipe it on, let it sit for a while then wipe the excess off. Chrome will get polished with Simichrom. On this particular bike the paint is chipped pretty bad on the fender edges, and around the lug ends. I am considering a full tear down and repaint.
Aaron
Aaron

#16
Flitz, muscle and old tee shirts is my formula. It works and you need not worry about the painted part of your frame getting scuffed by accident. It also seems to be decal friendly.
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#17
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: just outside B-ham, AL
Bikes: Austro Daimler Ultima
Happich Simichrome is great for light surface rust and polishing, if you can find it. A tube will last a long time and it is also great for aluminium/alloy parts like crank arms. Use with strips from an old cotton t-shirt.
Best wishes.
Best wishes.
#18
Originally Posted by cyclotoine
i really like never-dull wadding pad too. Autosol is also pretty awesome stuff and works as well or better on alluminum than chrome. i would use brass wool that everone talkabout but I can't find it fine enough. The super fine 0000 steel wool does work wonders and it is SOOO fine I can't really see any scratching effect.
I think they are actually refering to those 'Chore Boy' copper pot scrubbers, like this:

Usually available in the dish soap asile of any better grocery. You don't need to worry about the apparent coarseness of them. They only serve to take off rust. Polishing is done with with chrome polish, followed by NeverDull.
I've been doing it this way for years, and never had a scratching problem.
#20
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From: On the road-USA
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
Originally Posted by Stacey
I think they are actually refering to those 'Chore Boy' copper pot scrubbers, like this:

Usually available in the dish soap asile of any better grocery. You don't need to worry about the apparent coarseness of them. They only serve to take off rust. Polishing is done with with chrome polish, followed by NeverDull.
I've been doing it this way for years, and never had a scratching problem.

Usually available in the dish soap asile of any better grocery. You don't need to worry about the apparent coarseness of them. They only serve to take off rust. Polishing is done with with chrome polish, followed by NeverDull.
I've been doing it this way for years, and never had a scratching problem.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#21
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by -=Łem in Pa=-
One thing I have found is to let oil sit on the rust for a while and just wipe
it off. For whats left over, put a little oil or WD-40 on the dull side of a piece of
aluminum foil and lightly scrub.
it off. For whats left over, put a little oil or WD-40 on the dull side of a piece of
aluminum foil and lightly scrub.
I have some chrome that needs serious attention.
#22
I have been VERY happy with a brass tootbrush lately. No apparent damage and gets around spokes easily. It works easily as well on the underside of Schwinn stems. That tight angle that is usually the worst part, and it was little or no work. Spray on a little oil, and have at it. They take rust out of the knurls on Schwinn rims too.,,,,BD
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Last edited by Bikedued; 11-30-06 at 10:54 PM.
#24
It all depends on the severity of the problem. Sometimes you have no choice but to either re-chrome the part or replace it. 000 or 0000 steel wool using a car wash/water mix for a lube will remove rust but will leave some fine scratches in the finish. That requires using a liquid or paste polish (white compound or Jeweler's Rouge) with a power buffer to remove the scratches and restore the finish to mirror like qualities.
Using something as simple as an old toothbrush or brass brush and household cleanser also works to remove rust from chrome (cleanser is a mild to fine abrasive). Toothbrushes are usually used in "hard to get at" areas like creases or folds in the metal. A "Dobie" pad or "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" will not scratch any surface but can clean the rust off with just a car wash/water mix.
Buy a good chrome polish. Mother's Chrome Polish is available at most local auto store chains. Most chrome polishes will contain/leave a protective coating on the chrome. Can apply wax to the chrome after a day or two for even more protection. The reason I recommend waiting a day or two is in case one has to do some touchup polishing. Some chrome polishes contain "fillers" that hide imperfections, but it depends on how anal you are about it (perfectionist).
Using something as simple as an old toothbrush or brass brush and household cleanser also works to remove rust from chrome (cleanser is a mild to fine abrasive). Toothbrushes are usually used in "hard to get at" areas like creases or folds in the metal. A "Dobie" pad or "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" will not scratch any surface but can clean the rust off with just a car wash/water mix.
Buy a good chrome polish. Mother's Chrome Polish is available at most local auto store chains. Most chrome polishes will contain/leave a protective coating on the chrome. Can apply wax to the chrome after a day or two for even more protection. The reason I recommend waiting a day or two is in case one has to do some touchup polishing. Some chrome polishes contain "fillers" that hide imperfections, but it depends on how anal you are about it (perfectionist).
#25
MADE IN HONG KONG
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From: Washington DC
Bikes: some but not enough
Alum foil wad warning. Yes it removes the rust nicely, Yes it can be wadded into different shapes to get to hard to reach places. HOWEVER, I have found that it tends to hold onto the dislodged rust particles and create scratches on the chrome surface. Is there a trick to prevent this?







