You can't be serious!!!
#27
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 799
Likes: 29
From: Minneapolis, MN
Originally Posted by Mariner Fan
I was wondering how the bike would handle with such a high handlebar + a short stem.
#28
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 526
From: SW Ohio
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Originally Posted by MnHPVA Guy
If you are accustomed to riding with lower bars and a fair amount of extension, you would think my bikes handle poorly. Just as I would think yours do.

edit: its a sad day where affirming the unpopular comments of a legit thread can practically get you banished from the forum.
Last edited by masi61; 12-12-06 at 02:30 PM.
#29
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,901
Likes: 526
From: SW Ohio
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Originally Posted by MnHPVA Guy
Been there. Done that. 20 years ago. Note extended HT.Of course now it has an even taller stem with less extension
Done that too. Sold my 22" DL-1 and bought a 24" since there is no practical way to raise the bars with rod brakes. My '58 Raleigh RRA Moderne is a 23" though a 21" would be a better fit. My plan is to make a taller clone of the original stem. When showing it off, the stem will be all the way down to the butted part of the long steerer. But it will look like the stock stem at max. height. Fortunately the Brits used to ride large frames, with little seat post showing, so it won't look too odd.
But in most cases I'd rather have crotch clearance at the cost of another 2 inches of stem.
Not when one has a passion for old British iron. (Remember, this is the Classic & Vintage forum.) A modern "Made in China" city or "Comfort" bike wouldn't satisfy that. If comfort were my only criteria, I've got 5 recumbents.
But I do think that those comfort bikes are "Plan A" for a large segment of the population.
Given the equipment and the cheap looking frame I don't know that he's "ruined" much, and he's done nothing irreversable. I assume it suits him better than it used to.
However, geometry is a valid concern. As the bars go up, the seat should go back. My Taylor wasn't as nice to ride with the high bars as my as 3 speeds with their shallower angles. When I figured out why, I went to a stem with less extension and a Brooks B-67, which can be mounted rather far rearward.
If you start with a lightweight touring frame, the longer stays mean that moving up and back won't screw up the weight distribution, as would happen with racing frame.
BTW I will be selling my Paramount track bike. Even I agree that there's no justification for putting high rise bars on that.
Done that too. Sold my 22" DL-1 and bought a 24" since there is no practical way to raise the bars with rod brakes. My '58 Raleigh RRA Moderne is a 23" though a 21" would be a better fit. My plan is to make a taller clone of the original stem. When showing it off, the stem will be all the way down to the butted part of the long steerer. But it will look like the stock stem at max. height. Fortunately the Brits used to ride large frames, with little seat post showing, so it won't look too odd.
But in most cases I'd rather have crotch clearance at the cost of another 2 inches of stem.
Not when one has a passion for old British iron. (Remember, this is the Classic & Vintage forum.) A modern "Made in China" city or "Comfort" bike wouldn't satisfy that. If comfort were my only criteria, I've got 5 recumbents.
But I do think that those comfort bikes are "Plan A" for a large segment of the population.
Given the equipment and the cheap looking frame I don't know that he's "ruined" much, and he's done nothing irreversable. I assume it suits him better than it used to.
However, geometry is a valid concern. As the bars go up, the seat should go back. My Taylor wasn't as nice to ride with the high bars as my as 3 speeds with their shallower angles. When I figured out why, I went to a stem with less extension and a Brooks B-67, which can be mounted rather far rearward.
If you start with a lightweight touring frame, the longer stays mean that moving up and back won't screw up the weight distribution, as would happen with racing frame.
BTW I will be selling my Paramount track bike. Even I agree that there's no justification for putting high rise bars on that.
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 248
Likes: 2
Originally Posted by MnHPVA Guy
Fortunately the Brits used to ride large frames, with little seat post showing, so it won't look too odd.
Originally Posted by MnHPVA Guy
But in most cases I'd rather have crotch clearance at the cost of another 2 inches of stem.
Last edited by highlyselassie; 12-12-06 at 03:07 PM.
#31
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 799
Likes: 29
From: Minneapolis, MN
Originally Posted by MnHPVA Guy
If you are accustomed to riding with lower bars and a fair amount of extension, you would think my bikes handle poorly. Just as I would think yours do.
How we percieve the quality of a bike's handling has more to do with what we have become accustomed to than than any specific geometric or ergonomic criteria. Our subconsious grows to expect a certain reaction from the bike to subtle movements of our hands and bodies. When the reaction isn't what we subconsiously expect, our brain thinks something is wrong, which we interpret as the bike not handling well.
Subtle things -
Weight distribution determines how quickly a bike will react on the roll axis to a given steering input.
Hand position in relation to the steering axis determines with how much force, over what distance and perhaps most importantly at what vector, you need to move your hands to get an expected steering or balancing correction. Change any of these variables, the reaction is different and your subconsious tells you "Somethin' ain't right".
Most of my recumbents have the hand grips 8-10" behind the steering axis, so for small corrections they follow a path close to 45 degrees from the plane of the frame. When I built one with wider bars, and the grips only 5" or 6" behind the steering axis, my muscle memory tried to move my hands along the familar path and met resistance, which I initially interpreted as a tight headset. Until I figured out what was going on, I thought it handled terribly.
Within reasonable limits, it's hard to set up a bike such that someone won't think it handles great. You and/or I may dissagree, but that doesn't mean there's any thing wrong with the bike, just that it's wrong for us.
#32
59'er
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,307
Likes: 12
From: Alexandria, IN
Bikes: LeMond Maillot Jaune, Vintage Trek 520 (1985), 1976 Schwinn Voyageur 2, Miyata 1000 (1985)
Originally Posted by MnHPVA Guy
If you are accustomed to riding with lower bars and a fair amount of extension, you would think my bikes handle poorly. Just as I would think yours do.
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#33
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 17,687
Likes: 12
From: n.w. superdrome
Bikes: 1 trek, serotta, rih, de Reus, Pogliaghi and finally a Zieleman! and got a DeRosa
Originally Posted by masi61
edit: its a sad day where affirming the unpopular comments of a legit thread can practically get you banished from the forum.
I look forward to the discussions here, I like the fact that we don't sit around and give
each other "attaboys" (I was gonna use a different analogy but. . . ).
I do appreciate what Joe said in his original post, I find that the extremely high stem
offends my (personal) sense of aesthetics. It just doesn't look right to my eye (and I
have a few bar and seat at same level rides).
I also think that huge amounts of seatpost showing is fugly. but again thats just my opinion.
other than personal opinion, it's all good.
marty
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Sono pił lento di quel che sembra.
Odio la gente, tutti.
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Sono pił lento di quel che sembra.
Odio la gente, tutti.
Want to upgrade your membership? Click Here.





