I have two framesets that I have posted about previously for "retro-racer" projects, one of them is a 1987 Reynolds 531c Proctor/Townsend that I got NOS. It came with a fork from the same model but from a much larger frame and so I have the choice to have the threads cut down lower and then cut the steerer to length and use a threaded headset. Or, I could cut off the threads and run it threadless ala current Richard Sachs.The components are going to be a combination of new and vintage Campagnolo (mainly).

What say ye?

vjp

Threaded. No question.

This is one area where I will (sometimes) turn heretic and suggest going with the modern over the classic/vintage. If you really have enough steering column to cut off all the threading and still have clamping area for a threadless stem, and it's an '87 frame, I'd do it. The "aheadset" style headset and stem really is an improved design, both in ease of adjustment and longevity, though I'd opt for a "classic" looking threadless HS and a stem with a -17 degree angle.

With an '87 you can get way with threadless and still not look "too" much like you're going outside the bounds.

BTW, if this is you Vic - My Bailey is heading for Campbell River tomorrow to be repainted and outfitted with S&S couplers.

A rebirth for the old girl.

I just wonder how many 1" threadless headsets and threadless stems are running around out there. I know there are a ton of 1 1/8", but don't run across many threadless 1" stuff. I'm sure its out there, but for my money, I'd rather have a shop extend the threads.

I concur with unworthy1 on this matter, for all the reasons stated. However to maintain the classic appearance with a -17 degree stem, make sure the fork column is long enough for the necessary stack of spacers to achieve the desired stem height.

In these cases, I always leave the column at maximum length and start out with lots of spacers and a high stem. I gradually remove spacers from underneath the stem and put them on top, until I find the correct height. Only then do you trim the column. It may look geeky with the column protruding above the stem, but it's better than cutting the column too short and having to resort to a angled stem.

There are still current 1" threadless headsets and a lot of NOS ones too, Supply will be good for the forseeable future. After all, you can still get 1" threaded headsets and they have been "out of fashion" for over 10 years.

As to 1" threadless stems, they are also in good supply and 1-1/8" stems with the appropriate shim are a good solution too.

Headset longevity is limited by brinelling of the races. How does threadless help in this regard?

...........If you go threadless, go with a Chris King and you'll be forgiven

Seems I'm never specific enough in my language, but what I MEANT was that the threadless HS are easier to achieve initial adjustment and will stay correctly adjusted LONGER (which I contracted to "longevity") than conventional HS...and that is just my opinion based on limited experience and conjecture. Here's some more conjecture and opinion: the bearings and sealing mechanisms in many (but not all) of threadless HS are superior to most (but not all) conventional HS, and this will promote comparitively longer service life...note I only have TWO of my bikes (and only one road bike) set up with threadless HS and stem...all others are still high-quality conventional jobs, so I'm no fanatic convert.

The headtube on the bike is 143mm and the steerer tube is 212mm to the bottom of the threads which leaves 69mm. I am not sure what the stack height of threadless headsets are, any idea?

vjp

I purchased a 1" threadless headset recently. The stack height can be taller on some models, but the majority of the ones I was interested in fell into the 27-33mm stack height range - FSA, Cane Creek, etc. I wasn't looking at Chris King ($130) so I don't know theirs.

For your total steerer length, you'll also need to consider the spacers, the clamp height of the particular stem you're using, and the handlebar height you want to achieve. For mine, I have a stem clamp of 39mm, headset of 32mm, so that eats up 71mm before you even consider spacers to raise the handlebar.

They are similar to threaded headsets, usually in the range of 30 mm to 40 mm. Chris King's can be set up as short as 28 mm.

The newer design cartridge bearing headsets aren't subject to brinneling and their "races" are part of the bearing, not the cups. The cups and crown race are just support elements. They never see the actual bearing balls.

A worn-out cartridge bearing headset can be restored to like-new by replacing the bearings. The cups and crown race don't have to be changed.

chris king=tool

Thanks for all the feedback! I am pretty sure that going threadless would not work for me on this bike. I have enough steerer to grip but not enough for spacers which means I would have to have a + rise stem which I don't feel is a great look for a classic bike.

I will mock it up with some dummy spacers and see where it measures up to with regards my usual bike settings, and go from there.

vjp