are there univegas that are not worth it?
#1
are there univegas that are not worth it?
I'm interested in a local univega, lugged steel, Probably mid 80's. It's cosmetically not very good, but I can't id it due to bad CL photos. Mostly, I can see that the unis are pretty good, but are there any that aren't worth buying? It's going to be repainted, and the wheelset switched out. 75 bucks?
from CL: https://tampa.craigslist.org/bik/294538168.html
from CL: https://tampa.craigslist.org/bik/294538168.html
#2
Unique Vintage Steel



Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 287
From: Allen, TX
Bikes: Kirk Frameworks JKS-C, Serotta Nova, Gazelle AB-Frame, Fuji Team Issue, Surly Straggler
You can likely do better for $75. Looks like all the markings of a lower end bike-boom bike there.
#3
Don't call me sir
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 615
Likes: 1
From: Charlottesville, VA
Bikes: 1954 Holdsworth 3 speed, 1969 Bob Jackson, 1988 Miyata Twelve Hundred (retired), 1989 Schwinn Paramount, 2004 Santa Cruz Blur Classic, 2012 Specialized P3, 2013 Specialized Roubaix Expert Disc
Wheels and cosmetics can add up. That sub-100 dollar bike that seems like a good deal could end up costing you. If you are going to buy something that you know you will have to put more money into make sure that it's going to be worth it (I guess that's what you're doing, right
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#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
It depends. I agree with the prior posters. In my case, I refurbished an '82 Univega Super Strada that my son-in-law was going to throw-out in the trash. The bike has all Shimano Dura Ace drivetrain including the odd "AX" series Dyna Drive pedals. The frame is solid with no rust or cracks. I considered it a learning experience to practice my bike mechanics on without too much worry about damaging a costly frame. I spent a fair amount of money on tools but I'll be able to use those on my other bikes or future bikes. For now, it's a fun bike to ride. I am considering converting it to 650B wheels and tires. Have to do some more measuring first.
#5
Depends on teh frame, the fit and your intended use.
First, if it doesn't fit well, its not worth anything to you.
I wouldn't spend any money on a hi tensile steel frame. There were plenty back in the day. Check the model name, look for frame tube stickers and try to determine the frame material. Double butted Cr-Mo is best imo. Butted Magnanese alloys are next best but often came with hi-ten forks and stays as they were targeted at lower price points. I think bikes with plain steel forks and stays make fine beater beer bikes. But, I'm not going to restore one to pristine.
First, if it doesn't fit well, its not worth anything to you.
I wouldn't spend any money on a hi tensile steel frame. There were plenty back in the day. Check the model name, look for frame tube stickers and try to determine the frame material. Double butted Cr-Mo is best imo. Butted Magnanese alloys are next best but often came with hi-ten forks and stays as they were targeted at lower price points. I think bikes with plain steel forks and stays make fine beater beer bikes. But, I'm not going to restore one to pristine.
#6
Hey, that seller is the Squirrel Guy! He signed up as a member here, but I don't think he posted much. Apparently, there was a write-up about him in a local Tampa paper. Seems like an honest and decent guy. Maybe it's worth it to just go talk with him and see what else he might have.
Squirrel Guy thread
Squirrel Guy thread
#7
370H-SSV-0773H
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 0
From: Penniless Park, Fla.
Bikes: Merlin Fortius, Specialized Crossroads & Rockhopper, Serotta Fierte, Pedal Force RS2
yep, Squirrel Guy is in the local CL all the time... he's fairly reasonable, but the number of CL posts borders on a commercial enterprise (i'd be surprised if the operation is not a self-employed enterprise)...
an in-person examination and your personal judgment will save you money... IOW, if the bike's a beater, offer $25 or walk away...
an in-person examination and your personal judgment will save you money... IOW, if the bike's a beater, offer $25 or walk away...
#8
I'll certainly never go through the expense or pain of building up an old gas-pipe Univega ever again I can tell you that much. I'm treating it as a learning experience though- and just about everything I'm putting on it can be transferred to a nicer bike once I have fun riding it for a few months. That gives me time to be patient and look for a higher end Miyata maybe (I really like those bikes for some reason).
So yeah, since this is a complete bike just make a low offer and don't worry if he says no- there are better bikes out there for that kind of money (depending on what kind of Univega it turns out to be)- and being in St. Pete and near Tampa means you'll have lots more opportunity- hell, "Squirrel Guy" may even have a better bike for sale.
So yeah, since this is a complete bike just make a low offer and don't worry if he says no- there are better bikes out there for that kind of money (depending on what kind of Univega it turns out to be)- and being in St. Pete and near Tampa means you'll have lots more opportunity- hell, "Squirrel Guy" may even have a better bike for sale.
#9
yeah, I bought a bike from him a year or so ago, a huge schwinn with a springer front end. He's a cool guy, but I asked him recently if he had a model name on that bike, and he said he'd check. that was the end of that; he knows that I'm in the market for a lugged 4130 or better frame about that size. It's just that I can go after work (I'm in Tampa), or drive up on the weekend. I'd be happy if it were decent tubing, as I plan on powdercoating any frame I get to a mint green color, and switching out wheels and a few other parts. Thanks for everybody's replies.
#10
Originally Posted by dijos
yeah, I bought a bike from him a year or so ago, a huge schwinn with a springer front end. He's a cool guy, but I asked him recently if he had a model name on that bike, and he said he'd check. that was the end of that; he knows that I'm in the market for a lugged 4130 or better frame about that size. It's just that I can go after work (I'm in Tampa), or drive up on the weekend. I'd be happy if it were decent tubing, as I plan on powdercoating any frame I get to a mint green color, and switching out wheels and a few other parts. Thanks for everybody's replies.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 584
Likes: 1
From: Tucson AZ
Originally Posted by JunkYardBike
Personally, if I were to spend money on a respray, I'd want it to go on a frame with Reynolds, Columbus, Ishiwata or the like tubing.
Back on topic: That "bashguard" on the crankset and the fact that a knowledgeable seller doesn't mention the grade of steel would suggest to me that the "gaspipe" assumption is correct. What gives me pause is that the geometry looks a little tight for most hi-ten bikes from the 80's. Why don't you email the guy as he reqeusted?
#12
Originally Posted by GCRyder
Sorry to go slightly OT, but doesn't the term "4130" include the cro-moly tubing from all of those makers? For a while, I thought it described something lesser, but my reading since then has led me to believe that steels like Columbus SLX and Reynolds 853 are properly described generically as "4130."
I was referring more to stickers found on a frameset. I suppose 4130 chromoly may be a steel alloy used by Reynolds, Columbus, etc. But generally, when I've find bikes with stickers indicating 4130, they are not high end frames. I'm sure there are exceptions, of course, and my experience is limited. Quality of a frame, however, is not only determined by the alloy used, but how it is drawn, butted, brazed, etc. etc. But your point is taken.
I know manufacturers such as Surly are producing frames with butted 4130 chromoly, and those frames would be worthy of an investment such as new paint, though they are by no means high-end, but rather built for durability and strength. So perhaps dijos is looking for a frame with these characteristics?
And, hey, dijos can paint whatever frame he wants. I was simply stating my current criteria, which may change at any time!
#13
Originally Posted by GCRyder
Sorry to go slightly OT, but doesn't the term "4130" include the cro-moly tubing from all of those makers? For a while, I thought it described something lesser, but my reading since then has led me to believe that steels like Columbus SLX and Reynolds 853 are properly described generically as "4130."
Back on topic: That "bashguard" on the crankset and the fact that a knowledgeable seller doesn't mention the grade of steel would suggest to me that the "gaspipe" assumption is correct. What gives me pause is that the geometry looks a little tight for most hi-ten bikes from the 80's. Why don't you email the guy as he reqeusted?
Back on topic: That "bashguard" on the crankset and the fact that a knowledgeable seller doesn't mention the grade of steel would suggest to me that the "gaspipe" assumption is correct. What gives me pause is that the geometry looks a little tight for most hi-ten bikes from the 80's. Why don't you email the guy as he reqeusted?
I want to repaint it because there is a very specific color that I want it to be;
https://velospace.org/node/1696
I had a total POS that color that I loved, an old murray beach crusier that I have nothing but fond memories of.







