Frame Painters
#52
Argyle Army Foot Soldier
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Cary/Boone, NC
Bikes: Fort Gestus, 79 Raleigh Super Grand Prix, 81 Raleigh Supercourse, Mosh Lux 2* Gold, IRO Rob Roy on order
I wish I could explain better, I can/will do a write-up when i paint two frames hopefully In mid-october. If you are clearcoating, keep in mind that laying the pin-striping down before or after clear coating will have an effect on the permanence of the striping (yes you can peel striping off)
#53
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: CO....Hetchins MO, Merlin XL, Trek, Klien, Specialized, Kestral, Bataglin, Guerciotti, Bianchi, Schwinn, Colnago Geo, Miele, Contini, Feggin, Cannondale, Lemond, Ciocc, Giant, Rossin
Bikes: Hetchins MO, Merlin XL, Trek, Klien, Specialized, Bataglin, Guerciotti, Bianchi, Schwinn C19, Colnago Geo, Miele, Contini, Feggin,Cannondale, Lemond,Ciocc, Giant, Rossin
i had my colnago powdered frame and fork at Brooker Enterprises in PDX for $100.
https://www.brookerenterprises.com/

https://www.brookerenterprises.com/

#55
I have an old steel bike frame that I want to have sandblasted. I assume I would remove the fork before I drop the fork and the frame off at the sandblasters shop? The fork is steel as well. I've been quoted a price of 40.00. Does that sound reasonable?
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#57
I paid $25 to have a frame sandblasted by a fix-it guy whom I found in the yellow pages. It took him less than 5 minutes to do, a bicycle frame is pretty easy. That said, $40 isn't too bad a price, just be sure that he doesn't get any dust inside the tubes. And chrome will come right off, be sure there is nothing chromed under the paint.
#58
You're not supposed to stretch it while applying it and it's hard to avoid stretching when applying it to tapered stays and fork blades. The seat tube was easy.
You can see it better if you click on the picture, click "full size" and then click on that picture.
#59
I paid $25 to have a frame sandblasted by a fix-it guy whom I found in the yellow pages. It took him less than 5 minutes to do, a bicycle frame is pretty easy. That said, $40 isn't too bad a price, just be sure that he doesn't get any dust inside the tubes. And chrome will come right off, be sure there is nothing chromed under the paint.

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#60
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, DE USA
Bikes: Too many to list, but all 70's - early 80's BMX/ freestyle
The safest way to strip a frame is to chemically strip the paint, then use a soft media like walnut shells or plastic to blast it. Using a media and pressure that takes "about 5 minutes" can be harmful to the frame, and can only be done so many times. Also the finish will not look as good using more abrasive medias. If it's something you care about, be as gentle as you can. The cost should not be much more for the prep alone.
-Chip
-Chip
#61
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 664
Likes: 1
From: Belgium
Bikes: ca.1975 Gitane Interclub - 90's Colnago Master Competition- ca.'84 Merckx Corsa - '77 Groene Leeuw - ca. '78 Guerciotti - ca.1984 L'Express - 1974 Gitane 'Super Olympic' - Peugeot 1981 PXN10 - 1975 Peugeot PR10 -1974 Norta -1974 Peugeot PX10 LE
I have and I ended up damaging it before I got around to clearcoating it. I've removed all of it and now I'm trying to decide whether to do it over with tape or mask and spray with an airbrush.
You're not supposed to stretch it while applying it and it's hard to avoid stretching when applying it to tapered stays and fork blades. The seat tube was easy.
You can see it better if you click on the picture, click "full size" and then click on that picture.

You're not supposed to stretch it while applying it and it's hard to avoid stretching when applying it to tapered stays and fork blades. The seat tube was easy.
You can see it better if you click on the picture, click "full size" and then click on that picture.
#62
Señor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,473
Likes: 1,558
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
I have and I ended up damaging it before I got around to clearcoating it. I've removed all of it and now I'm trying to decide whether to do it over with tape or mask and spray with an airbrush.
You're not supposed to stretch it while applying it and it's hard to avoid stretching when applying it to tapered stays and fork blades. The seat tube was easy.
You can see it better if you click on the picture, click "full size" and then click on that picture.

You're not supposed to stretch it while applying it and it's hard to avoid stretching when applying it to tapered stays and fork blades. The seat tube was easy.
You can see it better if you click on the picture, click "full size" and then click on that picture.
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In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#64
Senior Member



Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 18,772
Likes: 11,501
I picked up a frame from the powder coater today, and we talked about the process of masking. Sounds like he needs to do one round of masking during the sandblasting (using something like duct tape), then remove that tape and all of the glue residue, and then apply a tape that can withstand high temperatures for the powder coating. He'll scroll around the edges of headbadges or other kinds of masking. So it can certainly be done, but just adds to the labor cost.
BTW, if you're in Massachusetts, I highly recommend this powdercoater in Plymouth, MA: Long Beach Custom Fabrications, https://www.lbcustomfab.com/. He charges $50 for a blast and a single color coat, and usually completes the job in a week or so. He's done two frames for me now, and about five for a local bike buddy. Good stuff.
Neal
BTW, if you're in Massachusetts, I highly recommend this powdercoater in Plymouth, MA: Long Beach Custom Fabrications, https://www.lbcustomfab.com/. He charges $50 for a blast and a single color coat, and usually completes the job in a week or so. He's done two frames for me now, and about five for a local bike buddy. Good stuff.
Neal
#65
I picked up a frame from the powder coater today, and we talked about the process of masking. Sounds like he needs to do one round of masking during the sandblasting (using something like duct tape), then remove that tape and all of the glue residue, and then apply a tape that can withstand high temperatures for the powder coating. He'll scroll around the edges of headbadges or other kinds of masking. So it can certainly be done, but just adds to the labor cost.
BTW, if you're in Massachusetts, I highly recommend this powdercoater in Plymouth, MA: Long Beach Custom Fabrications, https://www.lbcustomfab.com/. He charges $50 for a blast and a single color coat, and usually completes the job in a week or so. He's done two frames for me now, and about five for a local bike buddy. Good stuff.
Neal
BTW, if you're in Massachusetts, I highly recommend this powdercoater in Plymouth, MA: Long Beach Custom Fabrications, https://www.lbcustomfab.com/. He charges $50 for a blast and a single color coat, and usually completes the job in a week or so. He's done two frames for me now, and about five for a local bike buddy. Good stuff.
Neal
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#66
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 88
Likes: 3
From: Mississippi
Bikes: Trek 1000 and Lotus mixte
I have and I ended up damaging it before I got around to clearcoating it. I've removed all of it and now I'm trying to decide whether to do it over with tape or mask and spray with an airbrush.
You're not supposed to stretch it while applying it and it's hard to avoid stretching when applying it to tapered stays and fork blades. The seat tube was easy.
You can see it better if you click on the picture, click "full size" and then click on that picture.

You're not supposed to stretch it while applying it and it's hard to avoid stretching when applying it to tapered stays and fork blades. The seat tube was easy.
You can see it better if you click on the picture, click "full size" and then click on that picture.
#67
First post in a while, but this thread caught my eye . . .(Yellow before, Celeste/Black after
)
Joe Bell is certainly one of the best. The wait time was certainly worth it. The quality and attention to detail was unmatched. I recently had a several cyclists from U of Georgia staying with me and they were awestruck by the bike. That was probably worth the $850 that I put into the paint.
)Joe Bell is certainly one of the best. The wait time was certainly worth it. The quality and attention to detail was unmatched. I recently had a several cyclists from U of Georgia staying with me and they were awestruck by the bike. That was probably worth the $850 that I put into the paint.
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"The most difficult journey is back to the place where you failed" -Max Lucado
2006 Bianchi L'una
"The most difficult journey is back to the place where you failed" -Max Lucado
2006 Bianchi L'una
#69
Señor Member



Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 18,473
Likes: 1,558
From: Hardy, VA
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
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In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
#71
Junk Collector
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 973
Likes: 2
From: Chicago IL
Bikes: 1987 Schwinn Circuit, 2012 Colnago M10, 1990 Schwinn CrissCross
#72
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 7
From: SF
Bikes: 1972 Paramount Track, 1972 Paramount P13 Road, 1972 Paramount Tandem, 1986 Paramount Road, Merckx MXL, Gunnar Cross Hairs, Samson Illusion NJS, KHS Aero Track, Titus Racer X 29er, Tom Palermo Custom Touring
#75
Don't call me sir
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 615
Likes: 1
From: Charlottesville, VA
Bikes: 1954 Holdsworth 3 speed, 1969 Bob Jackson, 1988 Miyata Twelve Hundred (retired), 1989 Schwinn Paramount, 2004 Santa Cruz Blur Classic, 2012 Specialized P3, 2013 Specialized Roubaix Expert Disc
Okay painters, I have a question.
I recently stripped the paint on my Trek 500 and realized that I really like the raw steel look. I've been polishing the lugs to a mirror finish and they look awesome. What I'm wondering is if it is practical to just clear-coat the frame and if so, is there anything that I need to do i.e. find some kind of clear primer (if one exists). I've heard that you need to etch the metal if you want a really lasting paint job. I don't want to go through the hassle if I'm just going to have to strip it and repaint it in a year.
Thanks
I recently stripped the paint on my Trek 500 and realized that I really like the raw steel look. I've been polishing the lugs to a mirror finish and they look awesome. What I'm wondering is if it is practical to just clear-coat the frame and if so, is there anything that I need to do i.e. find some kind of clear primer (if one exists). I've heard that you need to etch the metal if you want a really lasting paint job. I don't want to go through the hassle if I'm just going to have to strip it and repaint it in a year.
Thanks









