Should I avoid rims that don't have eyelets? Does it really make a big difference in their longevity? I'm looking at these Fiammes:

https://www.velo-orange.com/fitoripo.html

I think they'd be perfect for my Carlton, but the lack of eyelets worries me. I've never owned rims without eyelets. I know they're necessary when using alloy nipples, but I'll be using brass.

I've used many rims without eyelets. And on heavily loaded touring bikes.
Check for reinforcing on the inside on the rim. But I've never really checked any of mine.

I debated this same thing recently - the original Rigidas on my '81 Trek 610 are eyeleted, but the rear had a significant flat spot in it.

Ended up replacing them with partial double-wall Weinmann alloy 27" rims (with nice hooked bead edges to boot), and have been very happy since.

-Kurt

Do those come with washers? That should keep the nipples from pulling through.

I have a pair if Weinmann tubulars that I think are a bit odd. No eylets and the nipple butts up on the inner aluminum wall. There is a wooden spacer between the inner and outer walls that keeps the nipple from pulling through under tension. When you glue up the rims, the glue goes on top of the nipples.

I don't have the most experience, is this typical set-up with rims without eyelets? Or is it something a little different?

I wouldn't worry about it, especially on new or NOS rims. I have about 6000 miles on a set of non-eyelet rims I had built up in 2005, and no signs of fatigue yet. And I weigh a ton.

You'll probably never have a problem. I've seen very light weight rims without eyelets that eventually formed cracks, and even spoke pull throughs. But, you'll more than likely have no worries with those.

I have lots of wheels with no eyelets and single walled rims, and they all seem to be doing fine. Granted, I'm not touring across the USA on them, but for my use, no problems. Actually, the one wheel that's been the biggest problem is a Mavic Open Pro that been breaking spokes like crazy. All of the breaks have been at the spoke nipples. I'm 170 lbs (a bit less than bigbossman's 2,000), so I have to figure there's some problem with that wheel.

Neal

I bought a set of these. Haven't built them yet but soon. One thing to note is they are not hook bead rims if that matters to you. I was a bit surprised by that. I had almost identical rims on my 1974 Bottecchia (only difference I can see is they were 27") and they came with Clement clinchers rated for 100-psi so I don't think it will be an issue.

Maybe I'd be better off buying modern rims that look vintage (sort of) like the Sun CR-18.

I had a wheel that had a couple spokes break at that end. I figured out the problem after the 2nd spoke broke. I had the drive spokes routed to non-drive openings, and vice-versa . Mistake was quickly fixed, and never repeated.

I was thinking of these Rigida AS 23 X SL rims with the polished finish for my vintage bikes if I could find them. They don't seem to have a US distributor and the only UK distributor I found didn't list that model. I might give them a call though to see if they can order them. I hear they speak English there

https://www.rigida.com/eng/produits/m...s_23_x_sl.html

I've never had a serious problem with any rim really, I guess I just don't push my bikes much. I feel a bit more confident on double wall rims, but that may be just piece of mind at work. I have bikes with eyelets, and many without. As long as they have a name brand on them, it really doesn't matter too much in my humble opinion. Now if a vintage wheel has rusty spokes, splits on the rim at the nipples, heavy corrosion, etc..... I take them off the bike, and find something a little safer.,,,,BD

I am about 220, although I haven't weighed myself in months. I had some old shirts I recently took out of storage, and they were looser than they used to be, lol. Maybe I'm no longer 220?

You want me to send you a bottle of mothers chrome polish?

wood-filled rims are not typical.. (you are lucky to have found them !)
wood reinforcing was an old way of making a strong yet light rim, especially for the track..
i think some of the (still !) lightest rims ever were made this way

for dirtdrop:
i have seen plenty of cracks on non-eyletted rims so i would definitely recommend using washers with such