I'm trying to improve the stopping power on my 80s Schwinn road bike. I bought new pads and it helped but it still isn't braking as crisply as I would like, so I'm wondering if swapping out the stock brake levers for some new ones would help even more. ?

What kind of brake pads are you using? Mine work so much better with Kool Stop salmon pads.

New cables and cable housing will help. Use ferrules, file the ends of the housing down, make sure its the correct length.

Levers will help, but so will calipers, and new rims.

Just read on Sheldon Brown’s web site that getting aero levers (cable comes out back of lever and runs under tape to stem) is the most cost effective upgrade after new pads and cables. Seems that the caliper is the least important piece of the puzzle. This right after I bough new calipers. If your running on steal rims all bets are off.

I installed Shimano Ultegra pads.

I read that on Sheldon't site -- which is what prompted this post. I wonder how that could improve braking? Once the pad is squeezed against the rim, what's the difference -- is there more torque with new brake levers?

I thought this too until I set up a set of set of Weinmann centrepulls with new pads on an old Claud Butler with steel rims - some of the most powerful braking I have ever encountered on a bike, seriously. Obviosuly, this theory goes to ruin once it starts raining.

Just a guess, but I think it is mechanical advantage (just the total amount of force that can be applied). Maybe someone who really knows the answer will chime in.

Then you didn't replace the brake pads with Matthauser pads!

I have them on literally ALL my bikes!
2 sets I've had for over 25 years!

Cool Stops are 2nd on my list, but I haven't tried their Salmon offering yet.
(none of my bikes NEED new pads)

Shi*mano pads aren't even ON the list, cause they are just that, shi*!
(better "modulation"? I don't need no stinkin' modulation! I wanna STOP! like, NOW!)
I'm right handed, and have all my bikes set-up with right lever/FRONT brake.

And yeah, steel rims? All bets ARE off!

Nothing wrong with Matthauser.


If I recall correctly, the KoolStop salmon material is the old Matthauser material. I can vouch for KoolStop salmons and have them on all of my bikes.

Based on my experience with the Bianchi and its marginal-at-best Campagnolo calipers (with Shimano aero handles, by the way), I concur 100%. I scared myself on a descent with those great-looking, poorly performing Shimano pads.

Concur. (I'm left-handed, so the standard American left-front setup works well for me. )

Concur.

Well, all my LBS had was the Shimano pads and I figured anything was better than the 20 year-old original pads -- and they are. I'll go the Kool-Stop route the next time 'round.

Back to the OP though -- will new brake levers make much of an improvement?

Somebody posted here recently that aero levers give a 10% increase in braking power, so I decided to try a set on my PX-10. The Tekro and Cane Creek levers are are hard to resist, but I just can't see putting them on a vintage 1974 bike. I've been holding out for some Campagnolo levers, but not having much luck. The last pair I bid on went for $100.10 on eBay.

Take a look at the calipers as the brake pads engage the rim. Some actually flex as you squeeze the lever tighter. Obviously, if the caliper arms flex, and lack rigidity, they can't squeeze the rim as tight, thus they can't brake as well. This flex is especially noticable on my '62 vintage Weinmann 730s on my Continental and the 800s on my '66 Collegiate.

I added the Tekro areo levers to my Traveler, which has '80s Shimano 600 calipers, and there was an improvement in braking over the DiaCompe levers they replaced. Another plus about the Tekro is the comfort of riding on the hoods. They fit my hands very well.

Ah, Pastor Bob, you nailed it for me. I have a late 80s Traveler, so your experience is golden for me. Looks like I'll be looking for some tekro levers. Plus, routing the cable out the back and under the bar tape will give it a much cleaner look.

The first time I used my front brake with Salmons (upgraded from shi*mano) I nearly endoed with a light pressure. It was bloody scary. Just a light touch is all you need to drop anchor.

I have Kool Stop greys on my 74 Super Sport, and as heavy as the bike (and rider) combo is, it stops better and smoother than nearly any bike I have. In my experience if you want violent stop NOW performance on steel rims use black rubber, like Jagwire blocks. Of course they may need replacing fairly often. The evidence of this will be a lot of black dust on the forks and seat stays. In wet weather almost nothing will make a steel rim bike stop well. I prefer good modulation and good stopping power over stopping fast with no control. You don't need to slam the brakes every single time you need them. Necessary sometimes yeah, but not always.,,,,BD

That's what I use the rear brake for.

An aero handle provides about 4.5:1 leverage instead of traditional handle's 4:1. The calipers themselves are close to 1:1 (centerpulls are 2:1, but with two systems in parallel). There is no free lunch -- increased leverage requires increased cable travel, which in turn requires truer rims and closer spacing of the brake pads in the released position.

Replace front single pivot calipers with a dual pivot design. Keep your old brake levers. Nashbar has a steal of a deal on the Shimano 105 front brake, in black, ten bucks. You can also keep your old single pivot rear brakes, after putting on new pads, since most of them have enough power to lock up the wheel and start skidding.

I have replaced most of my Dura Ace, Ultegra, and 105 front brakes with dual pivot models (and saved the old parts). Couldn't bring myself to swap out a Suntour Superbe brake, so it got a new set of pads.

Just did it. They are nice calipers. You can also buy 2, and use a tap and die to change one into a rear caliper. The front and rear calipers are exactly the same, but with different length bolts. Just cut one of the bolts and add some threads. The recessed hex nut is long so reuse the old one for the rear.

Being that it is an 80’s bike you will have to worry about Caliper reach. Can you get away with short reach calipers something like 47mm compared to long 57m (think that’s correct)?

You can file a little of the caliper away to make things fit assuming there is enough metal (in this case a couple of mm). This will be especially true if you have already converted from a 27 inch wheel to a 700c.

Harris cyclery is out of drop bolts, and they look like they cost somewhere around $40 for a set. Blows the savings so you might just as well have bought long reach.

Also make sure you have a recessed hex nut securing the calipers. Imhousing had an external nut that required him expand the rear hole to allow for the recessed nut.

Considering the price this is hard deal to pass up, but it looks like aero levers will be more bang for the buck. Also look at it this way you will get a spare set of those oh so loved shimano brake pads.

One suggestion: Insert the cable into the casing as you position tape the casing before adding the handlebar tape. I just positioned the casing, minus the cable, and then re-taped the bars. While I was doing this I also added Suntour barend shifters with the cables routed under the tape to the stem, so I was routing four sets under the tape.

Since it was the beginning of winter, and the Traveler was on the trainer for the next several months, I had thrown a set of cable-free bullhorns on the bike. My newly levered, casing, and taped bars were set aside for winter hibernation (minus the cables running through the casings). At the end of March, when it came time to take the Traveler out for it's first spring ride, I sarted to add the cables, and with the Tekro brake levers, I had a bear of a time inserting the cable into the casing. I succeeded, but it took hours instead of a few minutes. Needless to say, this experience tested my usual calm nature.

Chuck, thanks for chiming in. Yeah, the last I remember, there was a good amount of flex with the calipers. I'll check to see if I can tighten it a bit. Also, good point about losing the old bike look.

Finding some salmon Kool Stop pads is like finding a needle in the haystack at the three LBS's in my city. Looks like the Internet and UPS will be my friend again.

Personal gripe for the day: When I go to my LBS and want to buy something, and their response is "we don't have that, but we can order it"... Well, I can order it -- the benefit of going to the LBS is you can walk out with product. If I wanted to order it and wait a week for delivery, I'll just order from home.

[gripe over]

Assuming there's nothing wrong with the cables and the calipers, upgrading to Kool Stop salmon pads (same pad formula as the old Scott-Matthausers) and aero brake levers is the way to go for noticeably better braking performance. On my '83 Schwinn le tour luxe, I've got Shimano Exage aero levers ($15 at my LBS), the original "Schwinn Approved" centerpull brakes, and cartridge-style V-brake pads (w/Kool Stop salmon inserts). This setup works so well it amazes me-

I've found the best way to buy Kool Stop salmon pads is to do a search on ebay for whatever specific type of pad you need, there always seem to be sellers with good BIN prices and pads new in the package. It is strange that Kool Stop salmon pads are so hard to find in the "normal" places (LBS, mail order, etc), they seem to be some of the most popular pads yet they're difficult to find. Supply and demand and all that, but you'd think Kool Stop would make more of them and get them out there where folks can buy them!

Oh, and Harris Cyclery carries them, that's another place you can find them-

That's the frustrating part. The overwhelming pad of choice on this forum seems to be Kool Stops, and I can't buy them at any of my LBSs -- not too smart of a business strategy, IMO. All my LBS's have sipped the Shimano kool-aid when it comes to brake pads.