Dumb question, perhaps, but here goes: I have about three bikes with Sturmey-Archer rear hubs that were picked up at yard sales. I never had one of these when I was a kid, and they did not come with instruction manuals, needless to say. What is the proper technique for shifting? Apparently not under load?

Not under load. Actually, I don't think it will shift period under a load--when I tried mine, it just would stay in gear, and then when I left off, it would go. I don't think you'll break anything trying to shift under load, but just let off a bit when you shift, then resume. Don't forget--you can shift at a full stop too. No need to be pedaling.

Have you oiled the hubs yet? I suspect they are dry, if they have been sitting for years (and it is possible the prior owners never would have oiled them either). I'd pop it off, and make sure the balls have oil in them, then pour something like a tablespoon of oil into the oil port.

I finished putting together my first 3 speed bike last night. It shifts perfectly on the workstand, but I haven't had a chance to ride it. I think it's going to to take some time to get used to all that clicking!

You can find everything you need to know about 3 speeds on Sheldon Brown's site.

No bicycle transmission should ever be shifted under load. I suspect this is why chain breakage has become rampant; a new generation of riders, raised on indexed systems and mountain bikes, is power-shifting its transmissions to death.

The best way to shift any epicyclic in-the-hub transmission is to make sure the cog is turning anticlockwise with respect to the hub shell. One can easily achieve this either by backpedaling while stationary or by coasting while moving.

Never stand on a Sturmey under load either, except maybe briefly in first. Too much of a chance for slippage (and consequently, bodily damage to you) in second and third.

-Kurt

It is true that you cannot shift under full load but because the gears on most three speeds are widely spaced, I find that it is pretty much instinctive not to. Typically, when I approach a hill, I up the cadence a bit to carry momentum further up the hill and then back off slightly to make the shift and resume pedaling at a comfortable climbing pace.

Regards,
Alan

What kind of oil do you recommend?

Any light oil will do. I use whatever happens to be in my squirt can at the moment. Usually 5w30 or 10w30. The Phil Tenacious oil is supposed to work well, but I wouldn't want to use it unless I had just cleaned the hub. If you can find in Sturmey Archer oil would work too

Aaron

My method is to briefly coast while shifting. It works well. I've heard of a method called "delay" shifting which involves purposely applying full load while shifting and then letting off a little right when you want to shift. I've heard of some people using that method, but I would avoid that certainly.

When adjusted properly the AW hub will shift more smoothly than an external gear system.