Replacing a Nervar BB spindle
#1
Replacing a Nervar BB spindle
Anyone know if I can use a TA spindle with my Swiss thread Nervar BB cups, or for that matter does it have to be a French spindle to run French cranks? I guess I'm asking are all square taper spindles interchangeble?
John
John
#2
FalconLvr


Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 198
From: SW Virginia
Bikes: 62 Falcon, 58 Raleigh Lenton Gran Prix, 74 Raleigh Pro, 75 Raleigh Int, 75 Raleigh Comp, 76 Colnago Super, 75 Crescent, 80 Peugeot PX10, plus others too numerous to mention!
Spindles are spindles, whichever one fits. The taper is what can differ.
#3
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,413
Likes: 1,878
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
All square spindles have a 2-degree taper, but there are at least two different standards for the terminal width. The other variables are total spindle length and distance between the bearing races. Nervar Cranks should work fine on TA spindles, and vice-versa, and the cups should be interchangeable, as well.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#5
I believe they have different threads, I couldn't get mine to work and used a gear puller. Harris' site has some pullers for TA cranks which I think would work on the Nervars, #393 on this page:
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools...ket.html#crank
They don't mention Nervar cranks so I'm just guessing, maybe someone knows forsure.
I'm thinking of putting my Nervar on my UO8 and putting a triple on my Grand Jubile, although at times I'm wondering why I'm venturing into French bikes.
https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools...ket.html#crank
They don't mention Nervar cranks so I'm just guessing, maybe someone knows forsure.
I'm thinking of putting my Nervar on my UO8 and putting a triple on my Grand Jubile, although at times I'm wondering why I'm venturing into French bikes.
#6
If a standard 22mm puller is too tight, I don't think that a larger diameter T.A. puller is going to fit any better. The Stronglight puller is also larger that 22mm, so it's not going to work either.
Either the threads in the crank are an oddball size or they're damaged. I think I'd stick with the gear puller.
Either the threads in the crank are an oddball size or they're damaged. I think I'd stick with the gear puller.
#8
Maybe I misunderstood, I was thinking the threads wouldn't grab meaning the tool was too small, and since mine stripped that sounded correct. I saw on an old thread that Sheldon Brown said the Nervar cranks use standard 22mm pullers. Nania, you said "the opening is not deep enough to thread it in", did you remember to remove the bolt? I guess mine stripped just because it was frozen to the spindle, it did POP really loudly when it finally gave with the gear puller.
#10
Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
nlerner, Dirtdrop
The threads are perfect.
amnomad
Yes, I did pull out the fixing nut before attempting to insert the crank puller. The crank puller pin protrudes about 1/4" and that is enough to prevent the shell from grabbing the threads. I hadn't considered that the threads are probably incompatible so it's probably a good thing that it didn't fit. My other option is to replace or somehow straighten the outside chainring. Everyone I've spoken to has told me you can never straighten a chainring so that it will remain reliable but I just need it to be usable for my Peugeot beater.
The threads are perfect.
amnomad
Yes, I did pull out the fixing nut before attempting to insert the crank puller. The crank puller pin protrudes about 1/4" and that is enough to prevent the shell from grabbing the threads. I hadn't considered that the threads are probably incompatible so it's probably a good thing that it didn't fit. My other option is to replace or somehow straighten the outside chainring. Everyone I've spoken to has told me you can never straighten a chainring so that it will remain reliable but I just need it to be usable for my Peugeot beater.
#11
FalconLvr


Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 198
From: SW Virginia
Bikes: 62 Falcon, 58 Raleigh Lenton Gran Prix, 74 Raleigh Pro, 75 Raleigh Int, 75 Raleigh Comp, 76 Colnago Super, 75 Crescent, 80 Peugeot PX10, plus others too numerous to mention!
Excuse me if I am a little confused here, you say the crank puller pin protrudes so you can't get it in, right? Well, you need to back off that pin. The pin moves back and forth thru the threaded part so that it can force the crank off the spindle. Back that pin off until it does not interfere with screwing in the puller!
#12
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,413
Likes: 1,878
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
I have successfully used my old Campagnolo and modern Park crank extractors on my Nervar Star crankset.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#13
Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
evwxxx
You are absolutely correct but the minimum insertion point (tool pin least protruding) leaves the pin out about 1/4". The crank puller is the nashbar one. I can link it if you are unfamiliar with it but I'd rather not give them any free advertising. Is this tool defective?
John E
Good to know. I may exchange/return this piece of crap for the Park version.
You are absolutely correct but the minimum insertion point (tool pin least protruding) leaves the pin out about 1/4". The crank puller is the nashbar one. I can link it if you are unfamiliar with it but I'd rather not give them any free advertising. Is this tool defective?
John E
Good to know. I may exchange/return this piece of crap for the Park version.
#14
FalconLvr


Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,442
Likes: 198
From: SW Virginia
Bikes: 62 Falcon, 58 Raleigh Lenton Gran Prix, 74 Raleigh Pro, 75 Raleigh Int, 75 Raleigh Comp, 76 Colnago Super, 75 Crescent, 80 Peugeot PX10, plus others too numerous to mention!
Well, not sure if it is defective or not, but all ones I use can be withdrawn just about all the way in (completely out of the hole, in most cases!)








