Helicomatic Hel(p)
#26
Senior Member


Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Ashland, VA
Bikes: The keepers: 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Twenty, 3 - 1986 Rossins.
Thank you. I think you just held Armageddon off.
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Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
H.L. Mencken, (1926)
#27
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 9
From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
Bravo McDave and everyone! Saved me from scratching my head endlessly on this one.
Personally, I think these were a very clever idea. Wouldn't it be nice if we could use a small simple tool to quickly remove ANY modern cassette outside of our workshops.
If I did this right, here are 3 photo attachments showing how even the smaller diameter freewheels can be easily removed... AND... without even taking off your quick release skewer:
1. With the removal tool set on the knurled freewheel lockring.
2. Hub with lockring alone attached
3. Hub with the lockring removed to show the cross-threads.
Personally, I think these were a very clever idea. Wouldn't it be nice if we could use a small simple tool to quickly remove ANY modern cassette outside of our workshops.
If I did this right, here are 3 photo attachments showing how even the smaller diameter freewheels can be easily removed... AND... without even taking off your quick release skewer:
1. With the removal tool set on the knurled freewheel lockring.
2. Hub with lockring alone attached
3. Hub with the lockring removed to show the cross-threads.
Last edited by stronglight; 10-02-07 at 04:49 AM.
#28
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
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I guess you can take this to mean two different things...
"Top quality highly polished 700 Professionnel Helicomatic hubs use both an unusual cone and a uniquely fine threaded axle . Neither part is available. 700Pros use a larger chromed locknut in that special thread, also not available."
To me the "larger chromed locknut in that special thread" refers to "a uniquely fine threaded axle ". But I suppose you could take it to mean it's the lock ring on the hub for a larger freewheel. I dunno...
Last edited by McDave; 10-02-07 at 08:56 AM.
#29
Sister Annie
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,519
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From: Hauraki Plains District, New Zealand
Bikes: Retro Hercules adult tricycle, 1953 Hercules ladies roadster, 1950s Wearwell fixed gear 'Club' pathracer, 1980s Malvern Star 'Super Star', 1980s Healing GTX-105 Arabesque, 1980's Morrison Concorde & etc & etc.......
I purchased a second hand Helicomatic hub and freewheel a while ago and the vendor said he'd owned a MTB at one stage that had a different sized Helicomatic hub to the one I purchased. I'd asked him about the spanner for the hub and he only had the one for the other hub and not the one I'd purchased. He told me that he used to use a nut cracker that was the right size as a spanner 
Sheldon Brown does have information on his site, but it's pretty plain that he doesn't like Helicomatics in any shape or form.

Sheldon Brown does have information on his site, but it's pretty plain that he doesn't like Helicomatics in any shape or form.
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OMNIPOTENS aeterne Deus, qui nos secundum imaginem Tuam plasmasti, et omnia bona, vera, pulchra, praesertim in divina persona Unigeniti Filii Tui Domini nostri Iesu Christi, quaerere iussisti, praesta quaesumus ut, per intercessionem Sancti Isidori, Episcopi et Doctoris, in peregrinationibus per interrete factis et manus oculosque ad quae Tibi sunt placita intendamus et omnes quos convenimus cum caritate ac patientia accipiamus. Per Christum Dominum nostrum. Amen.
OMNIPOTENS aeterne Deus, qui nos secundum imaginem Tuam plasmasti, et omnia bona, vera, pulchra, praesertim in divina persona Unigeniti Filii Tui Domini nostri Iesu Christi, quaerere iussisti, praesta quaesumus ut, per intercessionem Sancti Isidori, Episcopi et Doctoris, in peregrinationibus per interrete factis et manus oculosque ad quae Tibi sunt placita intendamus et omnes quos convenimus cum caritate ac patientia accipiamus. Per Christum Dominum nostrum. Amen.
#30
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
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I purchased a second hand Helicomatic hub and freewheel a while ago and the vendor said he'd owned a MTB at one stage that had a different sized Helicomatic hub to the one I purchased. I'd asked him about the spanner for the hub and he only had the one for the other hub and not the one I'd purchased. He told me that he used to use a nut cracker that was the right size as a spanner 


#32
Huh? What did I miss. Nothing has been solved as far as I can tell.
I guess you can take this to mean two different things...
"Top quality highly polished 700 Professionnel Helicomatic hubs use both an unusual cone and a uniquely fine threaded axle . Neither part is available. 700Pros use a larger chromed locknut in that special thread, also not available."
To me the "larger chromed locknut in that special thread" refers to "a uniquely fine threaded axle ". But I suppose you could take it to mean it's the lock ring for a larger freewheel. I dunno...
I guess you can take this to mean two different things...
"Top quality highly polished 700 Professionnel Helicomatic hubs use both an unusual cone and a uniquely fine threaded axle . Neither part is available. 700Pros use a larger chromed locknut in that special thread, also not available."
To me the "larger chromed locknut in that special thread" refers to "a uniquely fine threaded axle ". But I suppose you could take it to mean it's the lock ring for a larger freewheel. I dunno...
I've seen and serviced many of the 700 Professional hubs as I'm sure others have.
Back in the day I threw out boxes of the lock ring tools. You can still find them on Ebay. If youn eed one PM me and I'll throw you the name of a shop that may have one.
#34
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
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No. 700 Professional hubs still used the smaller diameter hub with the smaller bearings. They used a much finer axle thread than the standard hub with a larger chrome axle locknut...not a larger lockring to hold the freewheel onto the hub shell. 700 professional hub cones were finely polished like Campy Records and Dura-Ace cones.
I've seen and serviced many of the 700 Professional hubs as I'm sure others have.
Back in the day I threw out boxes of the lock ring tools. You can still find them on Ebay. If youn eed one PM me and I'll throw you the name of a shop that may have one.
I've seen and serviced many of the 700 Professional hubs as I'm sure others have.
Back in the day I threw out boxes of the lock ring tools. You can still find them on Ebay. If youn eed one PM me and I'll throw you the name of a shop that may have one.
Edit: One still has to wonder about the Sport hub with it's larger bearings. Was it larger overall including hub diameter, or did it have a smaller diameter axle which proved unreliable and the reason why they switched to smaller bearings instead on the other models? Seems like a larger hub would allow larger bearings and axles and solve all but the spacing problem.
Last edited by McDave; 10-02-07 at 08:56 AM.
#36
Old Skeptic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,044
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From: New Mexico, USA
Bikes: 19 road bikes & 1 Track bike
Well, it seems evident to me that in any case a completely different and larger outer diameter Sport hub would be required for the larger diameter Sport freewheel. So, as far as McDave using the new freewheel on the existing hub... yer outta luck. But... if you ever do find the larger hub, you're back in business.
Unfortunately, I wouldn't have a clue where to look for one. However, since the Helicomatics (in one configuration or another) were used for several years on both mid-range Peugeots and on Trek touring bikes, perhaps a local shop which had sold either of these these during the mid 1980s would be a good starting point.
While I have never had any problems at all with spoke breakage after thousands of miles, I'm not at all thrilled with the shifting on the freewheels. I find that the sharply notched tops of the teeth can grab the narrow plates of modern narrower chains which are designed to more easily slide up onto amd off of profiled modern cogs. And this will cause chains to just skid along the tops of the cogs without falling into place. This is annoying. It tends to be more a problem with either new-old-stock or very lightly used freewheels where the tops of the teeth show no wear and still have deep and sharp "v-cuts" on the tops of the teeth. Perhaps the only solution is to simply revert to older style chains, ones actually intended for 5 or 6 speed freewheels exclusively, and which tend to have much wider side plates which are less inclined to fall quite so deeply into the splits on the cog teeth. A shame, since I like to use smooth and quiet modern 8-speed chains on most other 5-speed freewheels.
By the way, here is the latest city/commuter project bike I recently finished modifying (only slightly). It's a 1985 Peugeot mixte. Originally came with drop bars and a massive mattress saddle. The pearl white paint, decals, cranks, derailleurs, shifters are all original as are... you guessed it... the Helicomatic hubs and the 13-28 chrome 700 freewheel.
Unfortunately, I wouldn't have a clue where to look for one. However, since the Helicomatics (in one configuration or another) were used for several years on both mid-range Peugeots and on Trek touring bikes, perhaps a local shop which had sold either of these these during the mid 1980s would be a good starting point.
While I have never had any problems at all with spoke breakage after thousands of miles, I'm not at all thrilled with the shifting on the freewheels. I find that the sharply notched tops of the teeth can grab the narrow plates of modern narrower chains which are designed to more easily slide up onto amd off of profiled modern cogs. And this will cause chains to just skid along the tops of the cogs without falling into place. This is annoying. It tends to be more a problem with either new-old-stock or very lightly used freewheels where the tops of the teeth show no wear and still have deep and sharp "v-cuts" on the tops of the teeth. Perhaps the only solution is to simply revert to older style chains, ones actually intended for 5 or 6 speed freewheels exclusively, and which tend to have much wider side plates which are less inclined to fall quite so deeply into the splits on the cog teeth. A shame, since I like to use smooth and quiet modern 8-speed chains on most other 5-speed freewheels.
By the way, here is the latest city/commuter project bike I recently finished modifying (only slightly). It's a 1985 Peugeot mixte. Originally came with drop bars and a massive mattress saddle. The pearl white paint, decals, cranks, derailleurs, shifters are all original as are... you guessed it... the Helicomatic hubs and the 13-28 chrome 700 freewheel.
#37
Thread Starter
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Well, it seems evident to me that in any case a completely different and larger outer diameter Sport hub would be required for the larger diameter Sport freewheel. So, as far as McDave using the new freewheel on the existing hub... yer outta luck. But... if you ever do find the larger hub, you're back in business.

While I have never had any problems at all with spoke breakage after thousands of miles, I'm not at all thrilled with the shifting on the freewheels. I find that the sharply notched tops of the teeth can grab the narrow plates of modern narrower chains which are designed to more easily slide up onto amd off of profiled modern cogs. And this will cause chains to just skid along the tops of the cogs without falling into place. This is annoying. It tends to be more a problem with either new-old-stock or very lightly used freewheels where the tops of the teeth show no wear and still have deep and sharp "v-cuts" on the tops of the teeth. Perhaps the only solution is to simply revert to older style chains, ones actually intended for 5 or 6 speed freewheels exclusively, and which tend to have much wider side plates which are less inclined to fall quite so deeply into the splits on the cog teeth. A shame, since I like to use smooth and quiet modern 8-speed chains on most other 5-speed freewheels.
By the way, here is the latest city/commuter project bike I recently finished modifying (only slightly). It's a 1985 Peugeot mixte. Originally came with drop bars and a massive mattress saddle. The pearl white paint, decals, cranks, derailleurs, shifters are all original as are... you guessed it... the Helicomatic hubs and the 13-28 chrome 700 freewheel.
Last edited by McDave; 10-03-07 at 05:09 AM.
#38
www.theheadbadge.com



Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southern Florida
Bikes: https://www.theheadbadge.com
Sounds like a perfect candidate for the Bell chain that Walmart sells. I have them on most of my bikes and they are very smooth and quiet. Even though it's an 8 speed chain the only time I haven't been able to use one was on an 8 speed Shimano cassette. It was just a bit too wide and the side plates would make contact with adjoining cogs anytime the chainline wasn't perfectly straight.
I've found the TAYA chain a perfect substitute to Uniglide chain, if being used on a Uniglide 6 or wide (not IG or HG) 7-speed freewheel. As the chain is nearly identical to that of the original Shimano chain, performance does not suffer a bit from the original stock.
I've also found good use in the TAYA chain on very widely spaced 5-speed freewheels, such as the Atom FWs used on Raleigh Sprites and Schwinn Varsities and Continentals. Provided that the freewheel won't skip with a new chain, I'd highly suggest the TAYA in these applications.
Cases in which to avoid the TAYA chain - besides the aforementioned caution not to use it on ANY Shimano IG or HG freewheels - include: Narrow-spaced Suntour Ultra freewheels, 8-speed Regina or Suntour freewheels, Regina 6 and 7-speed freewheels (cog spacing is a tad narrower on these - interferes with the wide TAYA chain plates) and any 5 or 6 speed freewheel with narrower spacing similar to Reginas - in fact, try to avoid using the TAYA chain on any 6-speed freewheel that does not have ramping similar to UG freewheels.
-Kurt
#39
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The Bell chain at WM is a TAYA replication of the old Shimano Uniglide 6 speed chain. It is NOT - despite what their "full of doo-doo" packaging may claim - for Shimano HG 7-speed, or for that matter, 8 (and you'll never get it to work right on any Shimano 8-speed job so long as you live - it ISN'T possible).
I've found the TAYA chain a perfect substitute to Uniglide chain, if being used on a Uniglide 6 or wide (not IG or HG) 7-speed freewheel. As the chain is nearly identical to that of the original Shimano chain, performance does not suffer a bit from the original stock.
I've also found good use in the TAYA chain on very widely spaced 5-speed freewheels, such as the Atom FWs used on Raleigh Sprites and Schwinn Varsities and Continentals. Provided that the freewheel won't skip with a new chain, I'd highly suggest the TAYA in these applications.
Cases in which to avoid the TAYA chain - besides the aforementioned caution not to use it on ANY Shimano IG or HG freewheels - include: Narrow-spaced Suntour Ultra freewheels, 8-speed Regina or Suntour freewheels, Regina 6 and 7-speed freewheels (cog spacing is a tad narrower on these - interferes with the wide TAYA chain plates) and any 5 or 6 speed freewheel with narrower spacing similar to Reginas - in fact, try to avoid using the TAYA chain on any 6-speed freewheel that does not have ramping similar to UG freewheels.
-Kurt
I've found the TAYA chain a perfect substitute to Uniglide chain, if being used on a Uniglide 6 or wide (not IG or HG) 7-speed freewheel. As the chain is nearly identical to that of the original Shimano chain, performance does not suffer a bit from the original stock.
I've also found good use in the TAYA chain on very widely spaced 5-speed freewheels, such as the Atom FWs used on Raleigh Sprites and Schwinn Varsities and Continentals. Provided that the freewheel won't skip with a new chain, I'd highly suggest the TAYA in these applications.
Cases in which to avoid the TAYA chain - besides the aforementioned caution not to use it on ANY Shimano IG or HG freewheels - include: Narrow-spaced Suntour Ultra freewheels, 8-speed Regina or Suntour freewheels, Regina 6 and 7-speed freewheels (cog spacing is a tad narrower on these - interferes with the wide TAYA chain plates) and any 5 or 6 speed freewheel with narrower spacing similar to Reginas - in fact, try to avoid using the TAYA chain on any 6-speed freewheel that does not have ramping similar to UG freewheels.
-Kurt
#40
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1
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Wanted... helicomatic lockring (SMALL SIZE) I've just cracked my last one. Have several 700c wheels with maillard hubs fitted, but no lockrings.
Help..... Norfolk UK
p@remmington.plus.com
Help..... Norfolk UK
p@remmington.plus.com
#41
I have one of the large diameter Helicomatic hubs in my stash. I don't remember where it actually came from, but do know that I have had it for quite some time. I have checked it our and it has 1/4" bearings on both sides and labyrinth seals like those seen on Maxi-car hubs. The complexity of the sealing mechanism therefore points to an upscale version of the Helicomatic. It also has a solid axle which I suppose would point to a tandem or MTB use. It is a 36 spoke hole version.
#43
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
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I have one of the large diameter Helicomatic hubs in my stash. I don't remember where it actually came from, but do know that I have had it for quite some time. I have checked it our and it has 1/4" bearings on both sides and labyrinth seals like those seen on Maxi-car hubs. The complexity of the sealing mechanism therefore points to an upscale version of the Helicomatic. It also has a solid axle which I suppose would point to a tandem or MTB use. It is a 36 spoke hole version.
#44








