Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#3351
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Damn, would an offer of $200 be reasonable?
I'm really conflicted right now. There's a Raleigh Super Course MK II frame (with everything except wheels, cables, and rear derailleur) on eBay for $300, and a restored Colnago Super frame in Saronni Red for $900.
Are these prices reasonable? Would a restored Colnago have a depreciated value (even if it looks brand new)? I don't know much about Colnago bikes, but I do know they're kinda up there on the bicycle hierarchy--I still wouldn't know if $900 is a reasonable price though :0
I'm really conflicted right now. There's a Raleigh Super Course MK II frame (with everything except wheels, cables, and rear derailleur) on eBay for $300, and a restored Colnago Super frame in Saronni Red for $900.
Are these prices reasonable? Would a restored Colnago have a depreciated value (even if it looks brand new)? I don't know much about Colnago bikes, but I do know they're kinda up there on the bicycle hierarchy--I still wouldn't know if $900 is a reasonable price though :0
#3352
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Well that's kind of why I've not done it yet. Back and forth over 'is it bad enough yet?'. I need to post closeup pictures and get some thoughts from you guys. It is my main ride right now.
#3353
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post up some pictures of your bike. You might be surprised how good it could look with a healthy cleaning and polishing. I've come to really like a lugged steel frame with a little patina dressed in a brand new component group. The look really embodies what this thread is about. Grady's SP is a prime example. The chrome and paint are both not perfect, but the bike as a whole is stunning. The pictures do it no justice.
#3354
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Grady gets a pass on repaint because his sintesi needs a new chain stay. Money no object, I know what I would do with his
post up some pictures of your bike. You might be surprised how good it could look with a healthy cleaning and polishing. I've come to really like a lugged steel frame with a little patina dressed in a brand new component group. The look really embodies what this thread is about. Grady's SP is a prime example. The chrome and paint are both not perfect, but the bike as a whole is stunning. The pictures do it no justice.
post up some pictures of your bike. You might be surprised how good it could look with a healthy cleaning and polishing. I've come to really like a lugged steel frame with a little patina dressed in a brand new component group. The look really embodies what this thread is about. Grady's SP is a prime example. The chrome and paint are both not perfect, but the bike as a whole is stunning. The pictures do it no justice.
My SP was pretty/very grubby when Casey turned on the TLC.
I get more positive comments on that bike than a bunch of my others put together.
Really a stunning bicycle. Imho
As for the Sintesi, I'll just sit and oogle it till the game plan comes together.
#3355
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...I've come to really like a lugged steel frame with a little patina dressed in a brand new component group. The look really embodies what this thread is about. Grady's SP is a prime example. The chrome and paint are both not perfect, but the bike as a whole is stunning.
#3357
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Well, you've already seen it (Page 133) and commented. Yes, it is 10 Speed Campagnolo. This year's (2013) Veloce, purchased from Ribble for a price that couldn't justify me purchasing anything else, notably Microshift and Shimano. Originally the bike was just supposed to be a weekend cruiser of sorts, then I got carried away with my options, now it's turning out to be something similar to a fully-fledged race bike.
#3358
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Well, you've already seen it (Page 133) and commented. Yes, it is 10 Speed Campagnolo. This year's (2013) Veloce, purchased from Ribble for a price that couldn't justify me purchasing anything else, notably Microshift and Shimano. Originally the bike was just supposed to be a weekend cruiser of sorts, then I got carried away with my options, now it's turning out to be something similar to a fully-fledged race bike.
#3359
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Well, I'm glad you think that. I just got the tires a few days ago. I've been working with bikes as a hobby for many years (approx 10-12, I'm only 22) but it's been my first time working with tubulars... made a bit of a mess with the front, decided to use tape on the back instead of glue. I'll probably peel the front tire and replace it since impatiently wiping the glue off caused slight peeling of the coating on the sidewalls. (cosmetic damage only, but this bike I planned to have 110% aesthetically pleasing...)
However, with a brooks saddle in the post, and only a few accessories like toe clips and a bottle cage to order, I should be out riding very soon. My late 40's CCM cruiser that I commuted daily on had a pedal spindle crack on me, so I've recently been pushing to get the FH Special completed.... Starvation, walking or skating instead of using the bus... it all helped out.
However, with a brooks saddle in the post, and only a few accessories like toe clips and a bottle cage to order, I should be out riding very soon. My late 40's CCM cruiser that I commuted daily on had a pedal spindle crack on me, so I've recently been pushing to get the FH Special completed.... Starvation, walking or skating instead of using the bus... it all helped out.
#3360
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Bikes: 1986 Schwinn Paramount, 1995 Schwinn Homegrown Pro, 1973 Lawwill Pro Cruiser, 2000 Cannondale r 600, 1987 Nishiki Medalist, 1964 Schwinn American, 1986 Alan
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Here's my entry: 1986 Schwinn Peloton, I've done some more mods to it since this picture, I'll have to take it out to a cool place and takes some better shots of it.
#3362
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#3364
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#3365
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+1
Reasonable cost, light, absurdly simple to install and set up, and easy to use. The paddle throw is a little longer than Shimano, about the same as Campy. The button shift to drop cogs is smooth, set up on the outside of the shifter, light and precise. Reachable from the tops/hoods, drops, nice shifters for the money. The FD/RD/Shifter combos are good values. Not compatible with Campy, and no reason to be. With Veloce prices; no reason to try and compete there.
Reasonable cost, light, absurdly simple to install and set up, and easy to use. The paddle throw is a little longer than Shimano, about the same as Campy. The button shift to drop cogs is smooth, set up on the outside of the shifter, light and precise. Reachable from the tops/hoods, drops, nice shifters for the money. The FD/RD/Shifter combos are good values. Not compatible with Campy, and no reason to be. With Veloce prices; no reason to try and compete there.
#3366
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I was planning on using Microshift myself, with original intentions of just having a bike that was rideable. They're not the nicest looking on these classic steel frames though, they look much too bulky...
With all the bad luck I have had with low-end Shimano offerings, there would be no surprises if this Microshift stuff had potential to take a chunk of the market from them.
With all the bad luck I have had with low-end Shimano offerings, there would be no surprises if this Microshift stuff had potential to take a chunk of the market from them.
#3367
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I got my tires fitted, it looks almost complete now... Also a few photos of some of the details that Frank included into the frame.
Complete bike
Internally fitted cast crown? Fillet-Braze Unicrown? Not entirely sure on the structure here.
Chrome fork ends, lugged/brazed fitting rather than the more common slotted/brazed fit...
Chrome dropouts, and all the other sexy bits...
N/A
Complete bike
Internally fitted cast crown? Fillet-Braze Unicrown? Not entirely sure on the structure here.
Chrome fork ends, lugged/brazed fitting rather than the more common slotted/brazed fit...
Chrome dropouts, and all the other sexy bits...
N/A
Last edited by metalpossum; 10-19-13 at 05:23 AM.
#3368
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Some updated pics of my Merckx in it's current state. I'm building a set of Chris King/H-Son Archetype wheels that may go on this bike at times, besides that it's pretty much done. It rides great. It's almost as fast as my Ti framed, carbon wheel'd new bike that's probably 4 lbs lighter and it soaks up the bumps waaaaay better. I even pulled the kiddo trailer with it the other day, this one does everything well!
Build List:
91-92 Eddy Merckx Century frame - TSX tubing 57cm
Dura Ace 7400 headset
Dura Ace 7800 Shifters
Dura Ace 7800 FD
Dura Ace 7800 RD
FSA Energy Crankset 50/34
Dura Ace 7800 BB
Crank Bros Quattro SL "Team Fast Freddy" pedals
Ultegra 6600 cassette
Cane Creek SCR-3 brakes
Mavic Aksium '13 wheelset
American Classic seatpost
Specialized Romin 155mm saddle
3ttt 2002 Evol stem
Soma Hwy One bars
Build List:
91-92 Eddy Merckx Century frame - TSX tubing 57cm
Dura Ace 7400 headset
Dura Ace 7800 Shifters
Dura Ace 7800 FD
Dura Ace 7800 RD
FSA Energy Crankset 50/34
Dura Ace 7800 BB
Crank Bros Quattro SL "Team Fast Freddy" pedals
Ultegra 6600 cassette
Cane Creek SCR-3 brakes
Mavic Aksium '13 wheelset
American Classic seatpost
Specialized Romin 155mm saddle
3ttt 2002 Evol stem
Soma Hwy One bars
Last edited by russd32; 10-19-13 at 09:38 AM. Reason: updates
#3370
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Thanks man, I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. I think it has made it's way onto my keeper list.
#3372
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Bikes: Curtlo S3 Steel Road Bike; Colnago Master X-Light; Falcon; Basso Gap; Co-Motion Tandem
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My entry: a 1980s Falcon Jaguar, with Reynolds 531 Professional lugged tubes. Very nice and light frameset, and I built it up with Campy components of widely varying vintages.
Used 8s Ergolevers, with an old Record FD and Athena RD. Crankset is Record 10s 39-53, with shims added to space the chainrings enough to work with an 8s chain/drivetrain. Wheelset is Rolf Prima Elan 9/10s, which is unbelievably light and responsive. I took a 10s Veloce cassette, which has all loose cogs, discarded the spacers, 21T and 23T, and respaced the remaining cogs with an 8s conversion kit. That gives a 12-19 straight block, perfect for the terrain where I live. The 39-19 can get me up any hill in the upper midwest, and it's nice having tightly spaced gears for every time the wind shifts.
Original wheels were Wheelsmiths with 8s Campy hubs and Omega 19 rims, but they're 1.5# heavier --- I save them for the indoor trainer and the worst of winter; the Rolfs are my favorite for the rest of the year. BTW, the frame spacing is 126mm; it takes just a little effort to spread the frame to insert the 130mm rear wheel each time. No need to cold set.
Here's a closeup of the lugs, Campy headset, and brakes:
Total weight, with the Rolf wheels, is 20.5#. I suppose I could shave it down with a lighter saddle and seatpost, but I love the fluted aero Campy post and Selle Italia Turbo saddle. It's not my lightest or fastest bike, but was among the most fun to build. And a blast to ride.
Used 8s Ergolevers, with an old Record FD and Athena RD. Crankset is Record 10s 39-53, with shims added to space the chainrings enough to work with an 8s chain/drivetrain. Wheelset is Rolf Prima Elan 9/10s, which is unbelievably light and responsive. I took a 10s Veloce cassette, which has all loose cogs, discarded the spacers, 21T and 23T, and respaced the remaining cogs with an 8s conversion kit. That gives a 12-19 straight block, perfect for the terrain where I live. The 39-19 can get me up any hill in the upper midwest, and it's nice having tightly spaced gears for every time the wind shifts.
Original wheels were Wheelsmiths with 8s Campy hubs and Omega 19 rims, but they're 1.5# heavier --- I save them for the indoor trainer and the worst of winter; the Rolfs are my favorite for the rest of the year. BTW, the frame spacing is 126mm; it takes just a little effort to spread the frame to insert the 130mm rear wheel each time. No need to cold set.
Here's a closeup of the lugs, Campy headset, and brakes:
Total weight, with the Rolf wheels, is 20.5#. I suppose I could shave it down with a lighter saddle and seatpost, but I love the fluted aero Campy post and Selle Italia Turbo saddle. It's not my lightest or fastest bike, but was among the most fun to build. And a blast to ride.
#3375
Jack of all trades