Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#3601
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,649
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2608 Post(s)
Liked 1,703 Times
in
937 Posts
If you're thinking of swapping out the entire group, and sold on a triple, I'd reluctantly go the route of purchasing a whole transmission gruppo specific to a matched triple crank. 105 may not be anyone's dream group, but this is a smoking deal for what's included https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/gsg/ro...RIBMO&tmp=_CAR Otherwise if you like shiny campy bits, the athena stuff works, but 11 speed on a tourer seems like an end result that's neither fish nor fowl to me.
Alternately, you can mix and match using 10 speed campy levers will be fine with 8 speed, and 11 speed will work 9 speed well enough also. The issue (as you're getting at) will be the front side, where the levers work best for smaller width chains and purpose built cranksets. The best option might be to use a brifter on the right side only, and stick to your DT shifter (or bar end) on the right side. Even when running purpose built groups, I still miss the accuracy and trim afforded by friction on the FD. Brifter shifting across the front of a triple can work well when set up perfectly, but in my experience you're really using the stop as your inside limit rather than placement of the FD by the brifter. On the large ring, you need to do a bit of balancing between the outer limit and the last click of the brifter. When the ring is so far out as it is on a triple, you need it to overshift to get the chain to pickup when on a larger number rear cog, but not so much you risk dropping the chain when on a small cog at the back. Add to that the fact that a brifter usually needs to "settle back" to the click after the initial overshift. You need to be able to set up so that it "settles back" perfectly to use the whole cog range, but want the limit to allow pick up of the chain without tossing it. It gets tricky across the front, and IMO brifters have never really offered much benefit on the front (other than matching the right brifter's looks and grip surface).
For me the range afforded by most of the packaged triple gruppos would need to be carefully weighed against something more purpose selected like a 46/28 double setup, pulling one of the wifli'ish 10 speed cassettes on the back. You'd be able to find one of those jaunty ultra compact doubles, or make your own out of your existing triple crank using a 46 TA center ring. I ran a 46/30 12-28 8 speed setup all last year on my 760. With baggage switching to 44/26 would really be all that's needed unless you're really going to climb some monsters. When climbing the bigs in the Wisconsin Triple Crown my 30 28 was almost too low with just me and no gear, and I'm a spinner.
Alternately, you can mix and match using 10 speed campy levers will be fine with 8 speed, and 11 speed will work 9 speed well enough also. The issue (as you're getting at) will be the front side, where the levers work best for smaller width chains and purpose built cranksets. The best option might be to use a brifter on the right side only, and stick to your DT shifter (or bar end) on the right side. Even when running purpose built groups, I still miss the accuracy and trim afforded by friction on the FD. Brifter shifting across the front of a triple can work well when set up perfectly, but in my experience you're really using the stop as your inside limit rather than placement of the FD by the brifter. On the large ring, you need to do a bit of balancing between the outer limit and the last click of the brifter. When the ring is so far out as it is on a triple, you need it to overshift to get the chain to pickup when on a larger number rear cog, but not so much you risk dropping the chain when on a small cog at the back. Add to that the fact that a brifter usually needs to "settle back" to the click after the initial overshift. You need to be able to set up so that it "settles back" perfectly to use the whole cog range, but want the limit to allow pick up of the chain without tossing it. It gets tricky across the front, and IMO brifters have never really offered much benefit on the front (other than matching the right brifter's looks and grip surface).
For me the range afforded by most of the packaged triple gruppos would need to be carefully weighed against something more purpose selected like a 46/28 double setup, pulling one of the wifli'ish 10 speed cassettes on the back. You'd be able to find one of those jaunty ultra compact doubles, or make your own out of your existing triple crank using a 46 TA center ring. I ran a 46/30 12-28 8 speed setup all last year on my 760. With baggage switching to 44/26 would really be all that's needed unless you're really going to climb some monsters. When climbing the bigs in the Wisconsin Triple Crown my 30 28 was almost too low with just me and no gear, and I'm a spinner.
Thanks for the reply- I have no experience or knowledge about this sort of thing.
I guess what I wish to achieve would be the less bulbous look of the 6600 (or the Dura Ace 7800) combined with shifting from the hoods, combined with the low enough gears to be pulling an extra 30 or so pounds up a relatively steep hill. For what I have- 28-28 is about adequate. I'm happy with a 50 and 14. Really, I don't care about 9-10-11 speed. To me, it's about the ranges.
My hope is/was that I could use something like the the Sun XCD crank with some ramped and pinned rings and have that work as magically as it would look.
At this point, it's just formative idea stage- I've really gone far past my bicycle budget for a while, and I'd like to have a "vintage" setup ready to ride by spring on the 720.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#3602
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,447
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4236 Post(s)
Liked 2,949 Times
in
1,808 Posts
If you don't care about speeds, one of the cheaper ways to go is use 10 speed campagnolo veloce triple shifters ($110-120 on the British sites) and pair it with a veloce triple FD and 8 speed shimano rear derailleur (or 9 speed shimano mtb derailleur that's not dynasys) a shimano wheelset and an 8 mtb speed cassette. It's known as a shimergo setup and is supposed to work really well together and should get you want you want. A 9 speed chain and whatever triple you have on there should probably work.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#3603
Hogosha Sekai
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: STS
Posts: 6,669
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
#3604
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Forksbent, MN
Posts: 3,190
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 29 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 301 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times
in
15 Posts
Thanks for the reply- I have no experience or knowledge about this sort of thing.
I guess what I wish to achieve would be the less bulbous look of the 6600 (or the Dura Ace 7800) combined with shifting from the hoods, combined with the low enough gears to be pulling an extra 30 or so pounds up a relatively steep hill. For what I have- 28-28 is about adequate. I'm happy with a 50 and 14. Really, I don't care about 9-10-11 speed. To me, it's about the ranges.
My hope is/was that I could use something like the the Sun XCD crank with some ramped and pinned rings and have that work as magically as it would look.
At this point, it's just formative idea stage- I've really gone far past my bicycle budget for a while, and I'd like to have a "vintage" setup ready to ride by spring on the 720.
I guess what I wish to achieve would be the less bulbous look of the 6600 (or the Dura Ace 7800) combined with shifting from the hoods, combined with the low enough gears to be pulling an extra 30 or so pounds up a relatively steep hill. For what I have- 28-28 is about adequate. I'm happy with a 50 and 14. Really, I don't care about 9-10-11 speed. To me, it's about the ranges.
My hope is/was that I could use something like the the Sun XCD crank with some ramped and pinned rings and have that work as magically as it would look.
At this point, it's just formative idea stage- I've really gone far past my bicycle budget for a while, and I'd like to have a "vintage" setup ready to ride by spring on the 720.
#3605
Senior Member
ok, so it's another De Rosa.
#3608
OMC
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 6,960
Bikes: Specialized Allez Sprint, Look 585, Specialized Allez Comp Race
Mentioned: 199 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 461 Post(s)
Liked 116 Times
in
49 Posts
Nice! My current race bike is an Allez, albeit a bit newer (2012). You really need another seat bag, though.
__________________
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
#3609
Steel Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,427
Bikes: N + 1
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
yeah, that bag is pretty sad....it's seen a lot of miles & a lot of bad weather. Actually, my original thought was the Allez would be a crit bike....but I would probably rather have SRAM or Campy & lighter wheels if it were. It's a helluva nice ride though.
#3610
keep it simple.
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 117
Bikes: Univega Superstrada modern build
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#3612
Hogosha Sekai
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: STS
Posts: 6,669
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
#3613
Senior Member
yes, i've been busy, a year ago all i had was a Specialized Secteur. thanks to the fine advice and knowledge on this site, i've learned a lot and expanded my horizons. i didn't know what a DeRosa was a year ago.
#3614
80's bikes FTW
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 385
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Well I traded my premis for a 1988 schwinn prologue With full ultegra 6600 so it was for an upgrade. I loved the premis though and otherwise would have kept it. I know you love yours.
#3616
Hogosha Sekai
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: STS
Posts: 6,669
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
#3617
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 5
Bikes: 1985 Schwinn Super Le Tour, 2004 Specialized S-Works E5 Road, 2008 Trek Fuel EX-8, 1987 Peugeot Versailles, 198? Firenze MT505
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Finally running with the new wheels!
#3618
Shifting is fun!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Holland, NL
Posts: 11,007
Bikes: Yes, please.
Mentioned: 280 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2198 Post(s)
Liked 4,610 Times
in
1,765 Posts
I thought I'd give this concept a try. 1987 Batavus Professional:
#3619
Senior Member
very nice, this thread was a big influence on my present build. i will be adding mine to this thread tomorrow.
__________________
Semper fi
Semper fi
#3622
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: CA
Posts: 5
Bikes: 1985 Schwinn Super Le Tour, 2004 Specialized S-Works E5 Road, 2008 Trek Fuel EX-8, 1987 Peugeot Versailles, 198? Firenze MT505
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
'85 Super Le Tour
#3623
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 437
Bikes: 80's Treks, cargo bike, Lugged LeMond, Eddy Merckx 7-11, Ciocc resto-mod, All City MM disc, and some more
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Previously built up this frame with a SRAM drivetrain. I ended up using those parts for another build so I had this frame laying around. This was a 100% spare parts build (minus the new chain and cable housings). 8 speed Shimano from various eras paired with 9 speed Campy shifters.
#3624
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Mostly sorted for bits... I'm sticking with the polished silver Athena 11 speed. I want to ask for suggestions for handlebars, stem (I'm thinking quill?) and seatpost! I will be going through all 126 pages, but in the meantime any tl;dr tips would be appreciated.
#3625
Senior Member
Hello chaps - I'm finally back in the UK and able to make a start on this build!
Mostly sorted for bits... I'm sticking with the polished silver Athena 11 speed. I want to ask for suggestions for handlebars, stem (I'm thinking quill?) and seatpost! I will be going through all 126 pages, but in the meantime any tl;dr tips would be appreciated.
Mostly sorted for bits... I'm sticking with the polished silver Athena 11 speed. I want to ask for suggestions for handlebars, stem (I'm thinking quill?) and seatpost! I will be going through all 126 pages, but in the meantime any tl;dr tips would be appreciated.
I'll post some pics of mine soon.