Meh. If she's like me, she rides 'stretched out' and likes the seat angled down a bit, especially with those low bars. If anything, I'd worry the seat is too narrow for her, if it's a swift or swift copy. But everyone's different.

Thanks. It's great to find fellow Concorde enthusiasts! I saw your bike on another thread and admire your bike also.

Tommaso, probably 1985-1986, SLX tubing.

Saved from the garbage in poor condition, rough paint and decals, mix of Shimano and Campagnolo components.
My friend Kirk decided to save it; it was offered to him as an alternative to the landfill.

Decals are pending. Man, it is smooth. 5700 STI's, 9-sp Ultegra, some FSA in there, too.
Handbuilt wheels on 9-sp Ultegra hubs.

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/1986-tommaso-slx-22152_1.jpg

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/1986-tommaso-slx-22152_3.jpg

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/1986-tommaso-slx-22152_8.jpg

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/1986-tommaso-slx-22152_5.jpg

nice job on the Tommaso. very clean with just the right amount of nasty. it is nice to see them saved and brought back to life.

I Nice save.

Should be a fun bike for a new owner.

Did 9-speed Ultegra have concealed shift cables? News to me...!!

beautiful build Robbie.

And which Origin8 bars are those? Like them?

Is that a quill stem with 31.8 bars?

They didn't, they're 105 5700 10 speed shifters.

It took me a few months and 1 exploded rear derailleur, but I was finally able to get this beauty out for a ride today. Early Centurion Ironman frame I picked up from rccardr here on the forums. Built with full Shimano 5800 silver groupset. Wheels are Mavic Open Pro 36 hole with 5800 hubs. Rides like an absolute dream. Didn't expect a major difference in the 5800 from 5700 that I have on my CAAD 9, but truly a much better group. Front shifting is quiet, quick, and precise. Just be careful to use a good chain tool as a small chain issue can lead to an exploded rear mech, bent spokes, and bent/dented seat stay/hanger. All back straight and happy now.



[IMG]http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps4c9e8fe6.jpg[/IMG]

Oops! Thanks Raisin, I missed that bit.

Looks like a Cinelli Frog to me. 26.0mm clamp diameter.

There is only one quill stem available for oversized bars, AFAIK. It's made by Origin8, I have one on my commuter, it's perfectly serviceable but perfectly ugly. It has something like a 30 deg positive rise so is most likely unsuitable for a vintage road bike.

That Ironman really turned out nice. So many stories behind getting that frame back on the road...

I think they're the Pro Pulsion, which come in a compact curve. They are 26.0

While Kirk deliberated on a Cinelli black quill vs. the Frog quill, we discussed how cool it would be to have a Frog for 31.8 bars, as there are so few 26.0 bars with the curves we like. I personally think the Grammo would be a decent 31.8 model, as well. We had access to a Grammo, but the steerer bolt area had been reamed a bit and had no cap, so no more consideration was given to it. I really like a Frog.

This Frog was put on CL for a while, and got tons of interest, but everyone wanted it for next to nothing. Once he decided on the Origin8 bars in black, the black Cinelli quill/64-42 combo went out the window, especially as he rides the hoods.

That is one sweet '85. The Centurion logo those years was so ace. I can relate to the RD issue. Gotta keep it outta the spokes.

80's Specialized Allez
 

Newest build. An 80's Allez Frame. Resprayed and new decals.
Dura Ace 7700 crank and bottom bracket, 105 derailleurs, older single pivot Shimano 600 brakes.

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...psqeyd5t0f.jpg[/URL]

Well done.

Hi Guys,

I've never 'built up' a bike before, so if you all could lend me some advice, that'd be great!

I have this Rossin frame... it's got old 6-speed Dura ace. And some newer shimano brakes, DA seat post I believe, and DA quill stem. The bike is nice, however I feel like updating it... making it lighter, a bit faster, snappier, tighter, and freshening up the look. I plan to take apart the bike to get it repainted (colors not decided yet, but Pelizolli scheme is an option as I like red/white). I'm not a purist, so doing newer components would actually be ok by me, I actually like the stealth black components, chain rings etc. as it makes the frame stand out...

I wouldn't mind hunting for used components, so how new can I go?


1) At the minimum, I'd like to do new rims/wheels. Now given the Dura Ace 6-speed, I understand this is a limitation, so I may need to keep my rear hub if at least for now?

2) If I upgrade the group to a more modern groupset, then this may open up my hub options/wheel options?

3) If I upgrade the group, how new should I go? I understand there's limitations with spacing and such.

First a pic my Rossin:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8097/...5ae3c958_b.jpg

Pelizzoli inspiration (this is pretty close to ideal!)
http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/Images/Full/Curdomo.jpg

Specialized 40th Allez inspiration, very modern but still well done!
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0b2s6kl4YB...00/allez1.JPGG

I would leave the bike as is. Looks to be in perfect condition. Never change a running system, remember?

If you are about to get a new wheelset+group, I would rather recommend you get a steel frame from ebay or whatever, and build that from ground up. The new frame will be the smallest of your investments :lol:. For steel frames, building one with modern components is quite easy. Most classics will be spaced 126mm in the rear, and modern road hubs are 130mm. Because it's steel, however, the chainstays can be bent outward no problem ("cold setting"). This can be done permanently, but this is optional in most cases. Typically, 130mm hubs will go in 126mm frames quite easily without modification.

Unfortunately the photograph is kind. The paint is not original, it has been repainted once already (at least). Also the current paint job is not in great condition, it could definitely use a repaint, which will get done regardless. The rims aren't in the best shape either and look to be their age, mavic GL330 with oooold tubulars. It definitely could use some love.

Have you gotten a quote on this? Many folks here get one-color powdercoats on old frames as an economical way to repaint-- I have to imagine that a multi-color wet paint job like the one you suggest would be quite expensive to do right... Unless you are very attached to this particular frame for sentimental reasons, I would consider just looking for another one closer to your desired colorscheme, it very well may be more cost effective.

That being said, the frame very well could be the least of your costs if you want to do modern wheels and components as well.

As the person above said, the main issue is rear spacing. Your frame is 126mm. Modern road hubs (8/9/10/11 speed) are 130mm. 'Coldsetting' shouldn't be a problem


You can stick any wheel/hub up front. In the back, you could get a new wheel built around the existing DA hub if you want to just update the rims but keep everything else.

A modern drivetrain upgrade will require a new rear wheel if you want to make it work as intended.

The spacing shouldn't be a big issue (see above), you're going to need to spread or coldset to 130mm for anything 8speed or higher.

Now, what SHOULD you do... Ah, the fun part ;) My personal opinion: an expensive repaint would be throwing good money after bad here. If the DA stuff is in decent condition, you could take that off and sell it, seems to be an OK market for that. The no-brainer group to 'modernize' from the frame up is the 11speed 105 5800, IMO. Incredible value at under $400 for a new group online. Got you covered in black also:
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/produc...10D_1_zoom.jpg

Throw in some reasonably priced pre-built Shimano or Mavic wheels and you're good to go. If you have limited money to spend, I'd prioritize wheels and components ahead of a paint job any day, but that's just me!

Cheers.

Don't believe I've posted this here yet...

'87 Trek 330 Elance Frameset, 10 speed Shimano shifting, hub dynamo + lights. Doing serious winter commuter duty at the moment, taking whatever I can throw at it with aplomb. Dynamo lighting is the best thing since sliced bread for being to get on and just ride, regardless of the time of day-- some details of that build here.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/...8920173f_b.jpg

Another shot, dreaming of warmer days... :lol:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8617/...5f9eea8d_b.jpg

Agreed, excellent job, and welcome to the forum.
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/...psqeyd5t0f.jpg

Very nice frame, and you have tons of options.

On the frame, I like the two-tone just fine. Powder coating is cheaper and more durable, but can tend to blur the lugs if the color doesn't cover well. I'll leave you to your own devices on that subject, because it's about budget, the ability of the coater, etc. If I had to do it here in NC, I'd go with the new ceramic coatings, if possible. They cover well, are thin, and durable. Cold-setting would be OK but is not necessary on steel. More than likely, you can get a wider, 130mm rear wheel to go in there with just a bit of pulling on the stays while installing/removing the back wheel. Has always worked for me; should for you. Cold-setting is the best solution, but the process can be an issue. If you do it, do it before you paint or coat the frameset.

On the group, others are right: the rear wheel will dictate your progress. I have a couple of ideas...

1-Find a 7400 or 7700 rear hub that has an 8/9/10 freehub, matching spoke count, and lace it in. It's cheap, easy, and you will preserve a great looking and excellent quality hubset. You can easily sell the DA 7400 6-sp rear. In fact, I'd probably buy it. A 7400 would match the front, and the 8/9/10 freehub is not all that rare. Once that is accomplished, you can use just about any 8, 9, or 10-sp group, new or used, and still have "classic" wheels. Do this if you want to preserve classic wheels and rims, and polished hubs. You can then go ahead and sell the 6-sp group, as well, to offset the price of your next group. If you really want to save money, you can likely re-use that FD and calipers. 10/speed rings, a polished 105 5600 RD and polished 5700 STI's would only be needed to maintain the bling, modernize the ride, and remain with classic looks. Appears to be the cheapest, "maintain appearance" alternative.

2-Abandon the entire 6-sp DA group, and sell it. Then, decide how radically you want to depart from OEM and use the bikes on this thread for ideas, much as you did the other two bikes you showed us. You'll need new wheels and a group, and the price can range from, say, a set of Vuelta's on sale at Nashbar and an SRAM Apex group to a lot more for a lot more money. You can pick and choose from a Campagnolo group with Khamsins from the UK for around 600-650 delivered, to a couple of grand, to even more. I doubt you want to go that high.

3-What would I do? (love asking myself this question)
I'd only have two options: keep it as is, or go full Monty. Let's assume I'd go the full Monty, since this is the thread for it. This also takes advantage of the pretty nice prices available on the DA stem, seat post, headset, and other items.

Wheels come first. My current mantra is "used carbon tubulars." They are everywhere, and at some ridiculously low prices. Boom, first purchase. If they are Campagnolo-capable, they may be even cheaper, and the difference can be spent on a higher end Campagnolo group. If they are Shimano/SRAM-capable, just get the best price on the best wheels, and once they're purchased....accept them. Clinchers are out there. Used wheels are often excellent values, but make sure you see them in person, check the spokes, hubs, and very carefully, every inch of the rims.

After that, choose your headset, seat post, and stem/bar combination. Seriously, there are tons of groups, but you need to make these next. Stem/bars/seat post are part of the fit and cockpit, so get what you want. To duplicate that quill stem, you can go with a -17 degree stem, and based on the picture of your bike, it can be slammed right to the headset. I'd get a Ritchey black threaded 1" headset, use the same fork and steerer, and a black Deda quill adapter. This would match my FSA OS-190 seatpost, cut to minimize weight, and the Bontrager -17D RXL stem, 31.8 compact curve bars.

Now, the group. If I saved $300-$500 on the wheels by going with Campagnolo carbon used, I'd use that on a black Centaur group from ribble.uk or PBK, as long as I got the cables, housing, chain, etc. If my budget/savings allowed more, I'd go higher, and if less, then to black Veloce. If my wheels were Shimano/SRAM, it would depend on whether they'd accept an 11-sp cassette or not (like a modern Mavic, for example). 11-sp would be 5800, hands down, but I'd also look into SRAM's Rival. The 5800 is pretty nice stuff, I'm just not a fan of the crarnksets that much. It's a notch above Veloce, for sure, maybe Centaur, as well, for just plain being reliable, accurate, and smooth.

Pretty much depends on your goals here. Weight. Cost. Appearance. Performance. You may want to assign a priority level to each one.