The "Before And After" Thread
12-08-12 | 02:26 PM
#1427
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 27,266
Likes: 150
From: YEG
Bikes: See my sig...
I should have taken a before to show how badly damaged the threads on this Campy R tool were... it was nothing but a paperweight.
After some cutting, drilling, and brazing it is now a functional tool again... used a 10mm axle to replace the damaged end.
After some cutting, drilling, and brazing it is now a functional tool again... used a 10mm axle to replace the damaged end.
12-08-12 | 05:37 PM
#1428
Chainstay Brake Mafia
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,007
Likes: 19
From: California
and.. since my bump was on the last post of the previous page.. gonna repost the before/after here
there's almost nothing on this bike that hasn't been modified or replaced since I got it
Last edited by frantik; 12-08-12 at 05:40 PM.
12-08-12 | 06:35 PM
#1430
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,599
Likes: 158
From: Santa Fe, NM
Bikes: Vassago Moosknuckle Ti 29+ XTR, 90's Merckx Corsa-01 9sp Record, PROJECT: 1954 Frejus SuperCorsa
Nice job, Von Carlos. The only thing I'd change would be gumwall tires rather than all-black, but that's a very pretty bike.
12-08-12 | 08:22 PM
#1431
AmiableNitrite Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 267
Likes: 6
From: From California, currently in Utah
Bikes: '74 Alex Singer -'81 Mercian(sold) - '72 Motobecane GR(sold) - '73 Legnano(sold) - '6? Dawes Galaxy(sold) - '87 Masi GC(sold)
I also toyed with the idea of a red Concor saddle and red bar tape.
12-08-12 | 08:25 PM
#1432
Chainstay Brake Mafia
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,007
Likes: 19
From: California
i think you make the right decisions with regard to not going with red saddle/tape. though maybe yellow tape would be cool. might be too much yellow though.. the housings in yellow look good
12-08-12 | 09:07 PM
#1434
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,904
Likes: 36
From: Hurricane Alley , Florida
Bikes: Treks (USA), Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn letour,Raleigh Team Professional, Gazelle GoldLine Racing, 2 Super Mondias, Carlton Professional.
1973 Schwinn Paramount.
Before
After. (it's not clamped to the seat tube)
Parts just "put on for decal placement measurement"
Before
After. (it's not clamped to the seat tube)
Parts just "put on for decal placement measurement"
12-09-12 | 10:48 AM
#1436
Kind of pushes you to place the cage on the bars, behind the saddle or on the seat tube, which would be kind of high, but it is a big bike so it might work.
12-14-12 | 08:23 AM
#1437
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Turbo 'Stache
Threw my leg over my 1st commute on the Turbo 'Stache this brisk morning .... She's a little creeky... Nothing a little tweaking won't fix ... Liking the new hand positions , going to take some time to get use to the upright riding
12-14-12 | 12:13 PM
#1438
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 549
Thanks. Yes I agree, I think gum-walls will look better. The plan is to put some Pasela TGs on it; just happened to have these Bontragers laying around. Will also replace the Brooks for a Selle San Marco Concor or Turbo.
I also toyed with the idea of a red Concor saddle and red bar tape.
I also toyed with the idea of a red Concor saddle and red bar tape.
Beautiful bike - I love the curve of the fork. Elegant yet burly, like it means business.
12-14-12 | 03:11 PM
#1439
AmiableNitrite Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 267
Likes: 6
From: From California, currently in Utah
Bikes: '74 Alex Singer -'81 Mercian(sold) - '72 Motobecane GR(sold) - '73 Legnano(sold) - '6? Dawes Galaxy(sold) - '87 Masi GC(sold)
And then with the red seat and tape. (2)
12-14-12 | 03:29 PM
#1441
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,714
Likes: 4,104
From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 72 Cilo Pacer, 72 Gitane GT, 72 Peugeot PX10, 73 Speedwell Ti,l, 75 Peugeot PR-10L, 80 Colnago Super, 81 Zinn, 85 ALAN Cross, 85 De Rosa Pro, 86 Look 753, 86 Look KG86, 89 Parkpre Team, 90 Parkpre Team MTB, 90 Merlin
Nice work. Is that fire engine red on the Torpado? 
__________________
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer (x2) • '72 Peugeot PX10 • ‘72 Gitane Gran Tourisme • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Motobecane Grand Jubile • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • ‘80 Colnago Super • ‘81 Univega Super Special • ‘82 Zinn • ‘84ish Mystery Custom • '85 A.L.A.N Cyclocross • '85 De Rosa Pro • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
12-24-12 | 03:58 AM
#1445
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Bikes: https://velospace.org/user/69475
Started as a bruchpainted bargin...
And ended as a a commuter for spring 2013
Mavic gears. SR chainset, stem and handelbar. Trecto brakes and nutted Alexrims w 28mm tyres
Yepp i love Gulf colors
Next project...
And ended as a a commuter for spring 2013
Mavic gears. SR chainset, stem and handelbar. Trecto brakes and nutted Alexrims w 28mm tyres
Yepp i love Gulf colors
Next project...
12-24-12 | 10:48 AM
#1446
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 266
Likes: 6
From: Western MI
Bikes: 2015 Windsor Oxford; 2012 Trek T900; 2008 Iron Horse Commuter; 1999 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Pro; 1999 Kona Lava Dome; 1992 Trek 520 Tour; 1980 Fuji Grand Tour SE; 1973 Raleigh LTD-3; 1956 Robin Hood; 198x Worksman Industrial Trike
1956 Robin Hood
Here are some before and after pics of a 1956 Robin Hood I just finished rebuilding. It was in very bad non-ridable shape. Here are things I did:
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
12-24-12 | 03:13 PM
#1447
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,081
Likes: 10
From: vermont
Bikes: Many
Here are some before and after pics of a 1956 Robin Hood I just finished rebuilding. It was in very bad non-ridable shape. Here are things I did:
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
1) stripped the whole thing all he way down to screws and bolts. De-rust, grease and lubed everything. The hub took almost a full week of soaking in diesel/oil mixture because there was a lot of internal surface rust.
2) Straightened the fork. It was probably bent by a 500 lb rider, LOL. I used a tube and a car (trying to jack up the car).
3) Removed the surface rust and put two coats of clear coat.
4) previous people painted the rear wheel/hub/spokes red. I Cut the spokes, removed the paint on the hub (using brake fluid), found a better wheel, and laced with new spokes and nipples. In the process, I obtained a lot of original Sturmey Archer new-old-stock spokes and nipples. These are 276 mm pokes. If someone needs to rebuild a 36-hole rear wheel, these are the right spokes and we can trade.
5) I am not sure if the rear hub is original because it only has 36 holes but is dated "56".
6) The front wheel is also rusted out so I found another 36 spoke wheel.
7) Used fenders/saddle from a 1988 Sheffield bike. Someday I will find some Raleigh fenders/saddle.
8) Installed some Altenburger Synchron brakes, cable housing.
9) New Nimbus tires.
10) DIYed a TravelPro Platinum tote bag so it can be hooked onto the saddle with quick release. It is a pretty big saddle bag and my frame pump can be put inside. It is very convenient so I can move it from bike to bike.
The bike rides and shifts very smooth.
12-24-12 | 03:39 PM
#1448
Hopelessly addicted...
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,955
Likes: 13
From: Central Maryland
Bikes: 1949 Hercules Kestrel, 1950 Norman Rapide, 1970 Schwinn Collegiate, 1972 Peugeot UE-8, 1976 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Raleigh Sports, 1977 Jack Taylor Tandem, 1984 Davidson Tandem, 2010 Bilenky "BQ" 650B Constructeur Tandem, 2011 Linus Mixte
12-25-12 | 04:13 AM
#1450
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Bikes: https://velospace.org/user/69475