The ultimate Apollo thread........
#101
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 281
From: Rupert's Land
Bikes: 1981 Raleigh GP, 1985 Norco Bush Pilot, . . .
thanks for posting more pictures.
From your photos the model is a "Classic", not a Regent which it resembles. Both models had the same tube set. The Regent that I saw had Shimano 600 components, not Suntour that your Classic has.
Yes to Japan. Kuwahara built frame from Osaka Japan.
Related to Australian Apollos? Yes and no. Canadian Apollo's and Australian Apollos's where different distributors. Both distributors had some of their frames made by Kuwahara, but each set their own specifications. So there is little or no alignment between Canadian and Australian models. Both distributors also had frames made by other manufacturers.
#102
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Hi Hummer! Thanks for all your information. : ) Just wondering, is a Classic an entry level bike or mid level like the Regent? Would it still be a 1985 model?
Hi jcmac,
thanks for posting more pictures.
From your photos the model is a "Classic", not a Regent which it resembles. Both models had the same tube set. The Regent that I saw had Shimano 600 components, not Suntour that your Classic has.
Yes to Japan. Kuwahara built frame from Osaka Japan.
Related to Australian Apollos? Yes and no. Canadian Apollo's and Australian Apollos's where different distributors. Both distributors had some of their frames made by Kuwahara, but each set their own specifications. So there is little or no alignment between Canadian and Australian models. Both distributors also had frames made by other manufacturers.
thanks for posting more pictures.
From your photos the model is a "Classic", not a Regent which it resembles. Both models had the same tube set. The Regent that I saw had Shimano 600 components, not Suntour that your Classic has.
Yes to Japan. Kuwahara built frame from Osaka Japan.
Related to Australian Apollos? Yes and no. Canadian Apollo's and Australian Apollos's where different distributors. Both distributors had some of their frames made by Kuwahara, but each set their own specifications. So there is little or no alignment between Canadian and Australian models. Both distributors also had frames made by other manufacturers.
#103
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Hi Apollo nerds!
Any guesses on the age or model of this Apollo? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/4871599178.html
Serial number is MH 1011770 which doesn't match with any of the Apollo serial number resources I've found on this site or elsewhere. Shimano Altus derailleur, 700c wheels.
Thanks!
Any guesses on the age or model of this Apollo? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/4871599178.html
Serial number is MH 1011770 which doesn't match with any of the Apollo serial number resources I've found on this site or elsewhere. Shimano Altus derailleur, 700c wheels.
Thanks!
#104
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 23
From: Okanagan, BC
Bikes: Cannondale Caad 8; Jamis Aurora Elite, Kona Disc road bike, Rocky Mntn Equipe, Apollo Imperial, KHS Aero Comp SS
Missmarla - the CL post was deleted when I checked a minute ago.
Since the Apollo love on BF seems to be waning as of late ... here's before and after photos of the winter project. Still haven't ridden it yet (outdoors) even though today was a fabulous spring like day. Will post more photos once the bike is road tested.

Since the Apollo love on BF seems to be waning as of late ... here's before and after photos of the winter project. Still haven't ridden it yet (outdoors) even though today was a fabulous spring like day. Will post more photos once the bike is road tested.

#106
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,283
Likes: 23
From: Okanagan, BC
Bikes: Cannondale Caad 8; Jamis Aurora Elite, Kona Disc road bike, Rocky Mntn Equipe, Apollo Imperial, KHS Aero Comp SS
That said, the image is pretty low resolution. Judging from what I can see I would guess early to mid 80's. I recall finding a reference to Apollo serial numbers, but can't recall exactly where. Knowing details of the various bike components would offer a better estimate. Is this your bike that you're selling? Or wanting to buy?
#107
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
it's so weird to see the bike where the image has been flipped or mirrored. The drive side with the chain should be on the side facing the camera with the bike in that position.
That said, the image is pretty low resolution. Judging from what I can see I would guess early to mid 80's. I recall finding a reference to Apollo serial numbers, but can't recall exactly where. Knowing details of the various bike components would offer a better estimate. Is this your bike that you're selling? Or wanting to buy?
That said, the image is pretty low resolution. Judging from what I can see I would guess early to mid 80's. I recall finding a reference to Apollo serial numbers, but can't recall exactly where. Knowing details of the various bike components would offer a better estimate. Is this your bike that you're selling? Or wanting to buy?
#108
Newbie

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
New addition to the Apollo stable. Serial number 84 11 29093. November 1984 manufacture it seems. I can't find a model name. Tubing sticker says 4130 chromemoly butted tubes. I'm guessing that is the main tubes only.
A friend found the frame in the trash and passed it on to me. Built it up over the winter with 650B wheels, Dia Compe 710 centre pull brakes, Velo Orange Porteur bars, bar con shifters mounted to Dia Compe thumb shifter mounts.
This will be a commute/toodling/transportation bike for my daughter.
I think it turned out pretty good and looks sharp. I might change up a few things. A bigger rack or basket for the front. Possibly a rear rack. A plastic saddle instead of the Brooks for weather and theft deterrent.
Any ideas on the model?


A friend found the frame in the trash and passed it on to me. Built it up over the winter with 650B wheels, Dia Compe 710 centre pull brakes, Velo Orange Porteur bars, bar con shifters mounted to Dia Compe thumb shifter mounts.
This will be a commute/toodling/transportation bike for my daughter.
I think it turned out pretty good and looks sharp. I might change up a few things. A bigger rack or basket for the front. Possibly a rear rack. A plastic saddle instead of the Brooks for weather and theft deterrent.
Any ideas on the model?
#109
Newbie
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Calgary, AB
Hey guys, Just picked up this old Apollo 10 Speed for free! I plan on using it as a commuter. I hear the gear shift is near impossible to find parts for these days.. hoping it will last me. But other than some rust and peeling decals, it appears to be in pretty good functioning shape!!
any info is appreciated!
https://imgur.com/yYKRADe
any info is appreciated!
https://imgur.com/yYKRADe
#110
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 281
From: Rupert's Land
Bikes: 1981 Raleigh GP, 1985 Norco Bush Pilot, . . .
Hi [MENTION=407769]carissio[/MENTION],
your Apollo has a Deelites or Fred Deeley headbadge so it is from before 1976.
Have you found the serial number? This can provide more information about the age of the bicycle.
The serial number may be on the seat tube lug, on the seat tube below the seat tube lug, on the seat tube above the bottom bracket shell non-drive side, or on the bottom bracket shell.
your Apollo has a Deelites or Fred Deeley headbadge so it is from before 1976.
Have you found the serial number? This can provide more information about the age of the bicycle.
The serial number may be on the seat tube lug, on the seat tube below the seat tube lug, on the seat tube above the bottom bracket shell non-drive side, or on the bottom bracket shell.
#111
Hey guys, Just picked up this old Apollo 10 Speed for free! I plan on using it as a commuter. I hear the gear shift is near impossible to find parts for these days.. hoping it will last me. But other than some rust and peeling decals, it appears to be in pretty good functioning shape!!
any info is appreciated!
https://imgur.com/yYKRADe
any info is appreciated!
https://imgur.com/yYKRADe
The bike pictured in that link was badly crashed, and would be dangerous to ride unless you completely replace the fork.
#112
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Apollo Prestige XL
#113
Full Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 337
Likes: 10
From: Victoria, BC, Canada
Bikes: 1986 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman * 1984 Apollo Club Sport * 1991 Cramerrotti Road Bike
Good mid-level sport-tourer. Pretty common out west but not usually in such good condition as this one.
#115
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,951
Likes: 688
From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.

I can't believe I've never posted my slightly older (1980?) Prestige on this thread. It looks like the Prestige got a bit more prestigious as time when on; yours came with forged dropouts vs stamped on mine. Same pearl color, but mine was about half gone when I picked it up as a bare frame + non-original fork out of the a bike co-op scrap pile.
I first built it up as a fixie:

Frame getting prepped for repainting:

And turned it into a fake italian racer; sporting Legnano livery, centerpull brakes and Campy Nuovo Grand Sport shifty bits:
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 10-24-15 at 05:29 PM.
#116
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, BC
Bikes: '90s Specialized Hardrock, '84 Apollo Club Sport, '84 Centurion Pro Tour 15...
#117
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hi everyone,
I hope people are still checking this thread, finding information on Apollo road bikes online has proved to be quite the task!
I was recently given an old Apollo road bike, and was hoping to find a little bit more info about it from some road biking experts please and thanks.
It's an MK II, and from what I was able to research online and then locate the serial number, it seems like it's a '77 model. Most pages that exist seem to only talk about the entry sport 10 or 12's, the Mark III, and then the higher end models out there.
So where does the MK II fit in? It has the chromed front fork, but those old school Sun Tour shifters. I've noticed that the trend has been that most owners are on the west coast, and from researching the Apollo history, it's from Japan, imported by one man exclusively via BC (that had rights to Harley's too? Neat.), but I'm located on the East coast, and this was as I'm told, acquired in the Toronto area when it was first purchased all those years ago. A decal on the frame, seems to verify that. It doesn't bear the 'Deeley' badge, but instead has the Apollo one proudly on the front, with the nice Kuwahara text emblazoned near the handlebars/fork thing as well.
The BEST image of mine that I've found out there is this one: $275 || Apollo MK II | Bicycle-Itis | Your Shop for Used Bikes in Victoria BC The one I have looks identical down to colour, the only difference is that I don't have the accessory over my rear wheel that the one in the image does.
Hoping someone out there can shed a little more light on this!
Thanks in advance,
- JB
I hope people are still checking this thread, finding information on Apollo road bikes online has proved to be quite the task!
I was recently given an old Apollo road bike, and was hoping to find a little bit more info about it from some road biking experts please and thanks.
It's an MK II, and from what I was able to research online and then locate the serial number, it seems like it's a '77 model. Most pages that exist seem to only talk about the entry sport 10 or 12's, the Mark III, and then the higher end models out there.
So where does the MK II fit in? It has the chromed front fork, but those old school Sun Tour shifters. I've noticed that the trend has been that most owners are on the west coast, and from researching the Apollo history, it's from Japan, imported by one man exclusively via BC (that had rights to Harley's too? Neat.), but I'm located on the East coast, and this was as I'm told, acquired in the Toronto area when it was first purchased all those years ago. A decal on the frame, seems to verify that. It doesn't bear the 'Deeley' badge, but instead has the Apollo one proudly on the front, with the nice Kuwahara text emblazoned near the handlebars/fork thing as well.
The BEST image of mine that I've found out there is this one: $275 || Apollo MK II | Bicycle-Itis | Your Shop for Used Bikes in Victoria BC The one I have looks identical down to colour, the only difference is that I don't have the accessory over my rear wheel that the one in the image does.
Hoping someone out there can shed a little more light on this!
Thanks in advance,
- JB
#118
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, BC
Bikes: '90s Specialized Hardrock, '84 Apollo Club Sport, '84 Centurion Pro Tour 15...
Hi [MENTION=421328]dontcheeseme[/MENTION] ,
The MKII would've been near the bottom end of 70's Apollos with the stem shifters and hi-ten steel.
From a 2010 thread here on the topic: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ue-please.html "This model was 2nd from the bottom of the line and sold for about $150-175 CDN IIRC. It's got a hi-tensile frame, steel rims, SunTour VGT derailleurs with stem shifters. The cotterless crank is the best part on the bicycle."
See also https://freelanderbicycles.com/blogs/news/31010881-apollo-mk-ii-suntour-power-shifter-assembly
The MKII would've been near the bottom end of 70's Apollos with the stem shifters and hi-ten steel.
From a 2010 thread here on the topic: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ue-please.html "This model was 2nd from the bottom of the line and sold for about $150-175 CDN IIRC. It's got a hi-tensile frame, steel rims, SunTour VGT derailleurs with stem shifters. The cotterless crank is the best part on the bicycle."
See also https://freelanderbicycles.com/blogs/news/31010881-apollo-mk-ii-suntour-power-shifter-assembly
#119
Junior Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Chilliwack
Bikes: 2006 Norco VFR; 2004 Trek 6000 Mtn Bike; 1983 Apollo Sport Ten
Sharing Nostalgic Apollo Storey
Hi all, My wife owned an Apollo back in the early 70’s when we were dating and for a while after we were married when she upgraded. She loved her Apollo! Two years ago I picked up this 1972 Apollo (a spontaneous purchase since the owner was asking only $25.00; and for the sake of nostalgia - it is identical to my wife’s previous bike). I love that it looks almost brand new. However, even though it is a good fit for me, this bike is the lowest end Apollo, and darn heavy, so I’ll likely never do any serious riding on it. And being in my early 60”s I don’t much like the narrow drop bars. I thought about turning it into a fixie; or, upgrading some of the components to make it a bit lighter. However, recently decided it’s not worth it for me. So I guess the only reason I’m posting is to share my Apollo story with people who care, before I sell it or donate it this Spring.
John
John
#120
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,409
Likes: 281
From: Rupert's Land
Bikes: 1981 Raleigh GP, 1985 Norco Bush Pilot, . . .
that is a nice looking bicycle and in great condition. For that price you cannot go wrong.
I am interested to know why you think the bicycle is from 1972. The decal lay out looks more like 1980 - 81. You can check the date of frame manufactufing from the serial number.
#121
Cyclotouriste


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,785
Likes: 6,997
From: South Holland, NL
Bikes: Yes, please.
That bike looks gorgeous! If you were nearer to me I'd be sorely tempted to make you an offer for it. I'm already imagining it with down tube shifters, a black Brooks, some gum hoods ...
You can probably get the weight down by a kilo or two without much trouble as well.
You can probably get the weight down by a kilo or two without much trouble as well.
#122
Junior Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Chilliwack
Bikes: 2006 Norco VFR; 2004 Trek 6000 Mtn Bike; 1983 Apollo Sport Ten
Thanks for your reply and noting the likelihood this bike is newer than a '72. The guy I bought the bike from, and who had it sitting in his garage for approx 20 years seemed to think it was a '72 bike. The serial number on the bottom bracket is 0S8319. After checking earlier posts and a few other forums, I'm going to assume this is an 1983 Apollo.
#123
Junior Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Chilliwack
Bikes: 2006 Norco VFR; 2004 Trek 6000 Mtn Bike; 1983 Apollo Sport Ten
Thanks, non-fixie for your input ... if you are ever in BC, we'll talk. I really appreciate you sharing your imaginings re tube shifters, etc.. I'm more inclined to keep the bike and modify it to make it more usable for me (or for others in my family), however I'm short on ideas; you've given me a few good ideas. Would you mind elaborating about how I might reduce the weight? I'm thinking the only option is upgrading the wheels. Cheers & Groetjes!
#124
Cyclotouriste


Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,785
Likes: 6,997
From: South Holland, NL
Bikes: Yes, please.

Well, since you're asking ...
I wouldn't want to change the look & feel of the bike, so no major surgery and certainly no Campagnolo Nuovo Record or other fancy stuff. Here's what I would do:
1. Remove some superfluous steel
The spoke protector and chain guard need to go. This will improve the looks and the weight at no cost and little work (if you do it yourself; little cost and no work if you have your LBS do it.)
2. Move the shifters from the stem to the down tube
You'll need clamp-on shifter bosses, but the rest will work as-is. This will improve the looks big-time and help shed (a little) more weight.
3. Remove the safety brake levers
You can either remove the 'turkey wings' (this will probably leave a stub) or get a pair of replacement levers (Weinmann or Dia Compe). They should be easy to find for little money. The weight saving is negligible, but it will improve the look. Get some rubber hoods while you're at it.
At this point he bike has been 'de-dorked' and will look much more grown-up. It's still a little heavy though. My next steps would be:
4. Replace the wheels and tires
Those look like steel rims. They look awesome, but weigh a ton and and the brakes won't work well - if at all - in the wet. If so, I'd be looking in my attic for a wheel set with aluminum rims. (and preferably high flange hubs for looks.) This will really save some weight and make a big difference in how the bike feels and rides. Get some good lightweight tires. Panaracer Pasela is the default choice, and they weigh half as much as a cheap tire. If the rims are 'hooked', get the folding version, as they're even lighter. The 28mm TourGuard is a nice compromise between weight, looks, comfort and durability.
5. Replace the crank set
If it were a traditional Stronglight or Nervar set I would leave it on, but in this case I'd replace them with a cheap aluminum set. I have a low-end but very light Thun Coronado set that would look just right on this bike. Sugino Maxy would also be a good choice, IMO.
The weight is now probably down to between 12 and 12.5 kilograms, and light enough for anything but the highest Alps.
The rest has more to do with personal preferences:
6. Replace the saddle
I'd want a black, slightly worn Brooks on it. Preferably a B17, so it will take a saddle bag when touring, which is what I'd be doing with it. I'd probably replace the seat post as well with an aluminum one, while I'm at it. Or maybe not, as I like the look of the traditional saddle clamp. Or find a Birmalux in the right size, that will let me have the best of both worlds ...
7. Replace the pedals and add toe clips
I don't know about you or your family members, but I like them.
8. Lose some sleep over the colors of the cable housing, toe straps and bar tape
This is generally the most difficult part. At this point I think I'd go for all black, as it sets off the shiny bits so beautifully. Cotton bar tape.
#125
Senior Member


Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,951
Likes: 688
From: Port Angeles, WA
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Anyway, its the same tube set on my Prestige up above in post 115, and it weighs about 25 lbs as currently built, so, not too heavy. The component set on your bike is pretty heavy, as non-fixie points out.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 10-24-15 at 05:33 PM.





) - 1984 Apollo Club Sport (Tange 900, Shimano 600EX)







