Help! I have one of those ideas that just won't go away. Modern frame, super light weight, based around a 3 speed coaster brake hub. A modern high-performance version of the old 3 speed Clubmans. This bike would be used for quick 20-50 mile rides on paved bike trails. There are some hills involved, but nothing to severe or long.

1) Should I go with carbon or titanium? ie: used litespeed or LOOK. My first choice would be the carbon, but my concern is that the carbon chainstay will not be strong enough for the coaster brake.

1a) What geometry would be best? I think Track would be too severe. How about TT, Tri, or just plain road. I want direct power transfer, for instantaneous acceleration and good climbing.

2) Is the coaster brake really the best option? Does an integrated coaster weigh less or more than 2 standard calipers, levers, and cable. I like the simplicity of the coaster and have the skills to use it effectively.

3) Has anyone seen anything like this before, or done it themselves?

4) Any other considerations that might cause problems, or improve upon the basic concept?

I posted this in C&V because you guys are probably the most likely to get it.

Please discuss...

My personal opinion is that such a conversion would be a headache, but to each their own. The problem is these titanium and carbon bikes would have vertical dropouts and you would also have to rip apart the coaster hub to put in a longer axle because these frame would be 130mm and most coasters are probably 120? anyone? I would sooner do it to a nice steel frame with horizontal drops, something with a sport touring geometry.

I was afraid you were going to say that. Here is my back up plan which I think addresses those issues. Unfortunately it is not made out of unobtanium and I'm not sure what it weighs, but it might be a good start.

https://www.leaderbikestore.com/pd_ld720tr.cfm

Sounds good, how about a Shimano Nexus 7 or 8 sp instead. They will fit modern 130mm spacing and have a coaster brake optional. Actually, the European version, Alfine, supports a disc.


Tim

An interesting suggestion, but the 7-8 speed hubs weigh almost twice as much as the 3 speed, and I don't think I need more than 3 gears. I plan to gear for and mainly run in the direct drive like it was a single speed, but of course I'll have a low and a high if conditions require.

I changed out my kid's '76 Supercourse with an AW (at his request) and it went just fine. I had to bent some stuff a little, but it was no big deal. If you pull the hub off a rod brake bike, the axle will be a little longer.

OK, I thought of another question. Which 3 speed hub would be best for this application considering weight and gear range?

I guess what I am trying to accomplish here is the light weight and simplicity of a brakeless fixie, but with a couple more gears and ultra-modern style.

How about using SRAM's direct drive rear hub and the cog that fits what you need? I don't know about the weight, but the one on my Cannondale has been bulletproof these last six years.

An ultra modern 3-speed?

You mean like this:

https://tinyurl.com/yvc6yg

Ummmm, not quite

1. You don't want to see what one of those costs, fully restored. 2. Other than it has four wheels, an engine up front, and a steering wheel; absolutely nothing else matches a modern automobile. You're talking learning completely from scratch - and it ain't easy. 3. Oh yeah, they aren't much faster than a well ridden bicycle.

I'd use one of these:

https://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs_3spd_SRC3.php

If you give up the idea of a coaster brake, you can get one of these from aebike for $53 Like I did.

https://www.sturmey-archer.com/hubs_3spd_SRF3.php

They have aluminum shells with thicker flanges than the old ones and they don't leak oil. I really appreciate the fact that they've eliminated the neutral between 2nd and 3rd.

They're good looking hubs once you take the logos off:

https://good-times.webshots.com/photo...68014369DFdAOD

Hmmm....

The dropout issue has already been raised. An aluminum track frame will give you weight very similar to the "unobtainium" you lust after though there are titanium and probably CF track frames out there as well.

Are you sure the modern alloy shelled Nexus weighs 2X as much as a vintage Sturmey Archer? If you're going modern you might as well go all the way. That and I'd rather have the Nexus roller brake than a true coaster, especially if I'm running skinny high pressure tires.

Actually, I'd rather have calipers than either but if you want a pedal activayed brake I'd go roller.

I've often thought of this as well. In fact I have a bike with a vintage 531 frame that might lose its derailleurs someday. I lean towards doing it with a steel frame but if you go modern frame you'll have the lightest internal gear roadie around.

How do those compare tot he AW? I had a Shimano 8 speed and a SA 8 speed on various bikes, and was dissatisfied with both, eventually. Do they have the same awful grip shifter the SA 8 speed has? Do they have the old-school chunky feel to them?

I went back to an AG with two cogs and a derailer. I just didn't think the modern convenience was worth loosing the 'feel' of the old style. I REALLY missed the SA trigger shifter.

Also - I distinctly remember comparing my old AW on a steel rim to the Shimano 8 speed on an aluminum rim and being surprised the 8 speed was lighter. Are you sure the new ones are heavier?

Also also: That hub looks great on your Charlton. Easily passes for an AW on first glance.

Clubmans of old wouldn't have had coaster-brake hubs (well, they wouldn't have had CF or Ti frames for that matter). A nice narrow range hub like a Sturmey AM is the ticket (that's what my 1951 Raleigh Clubman has). Then again, my 1948 Claud Butler has a fillet-brazed (i.e., non-lugged) steel frame and a flip-flop rear hub, and that was enough for the English clubman of the time.

Neal

I have a feeling that he's going for the brakeless fixie look, only with gears.

Yes and no, I'm not married to the coaster, but since the hubs can be had with them, my parts count goes way down by having a single brake integrated into the hub. I mentioned the brakeless fixie more in regards to their simplicity than their style.

As for the hub weights, I was going by the weight difference between the shimano nexus 8 and the Inter-3 listed at Harris Cyclery. I haven't really researched any of the SA's or other hubs yet.

Why not a Raleigh one way or Redline 925 frame built around an SRF3?

I really liked the Nexus 8 I had. At the top end, I had it just like high on an AW, and at the bottom end I had low enough gears to get up the steepest hill. If I wasn't so anti-new, I would still be using it. The shifter was really nice, except for 5th gear. Very smooth, and mechanically as clean as the AW. The SA 8 speed has a terrible shifter, but the hub itself was nice, but kind of useless with only high gears and nothing on the low end.

Still, I prefer a 17T/24T set up on an AW. I just have to walk up a hill once in a while.

If you go with a coaster, (I wouldn't but YMMV) get a new one with the 175mm axle. The brakes on the old ones never worked worth a darn. I have a friend who uses a front caliper and new rear coaster on an old steel Raleigh frame and he loves it.

If you don't want a coaster, there are pros and cons to new vs old.
The new ones work great and you can get longer axles, but you can't get the newer parts. Fortunately many of the old parts like springs, pawls, gears, cones etc. fit.

The old ones also work great but you can get a false neutral if you let the cable adjustment get way off. And they are more efficient due to running oil instead of grease. And, oddly parts are readily available if you ask on such forums.

Funny you should say that, I have a Redline 9.2.5. and it also is destined for a 3 speed, but it is designated as my commuter and not quite the high performance level I'm looking for.

Hey, I did that with my Claud Butler with a VeloSteel coaster brake hub.

Neal

If I were building a "modern" Clubman...

1) It would be steel - Reynolds 953 stainless steel

1a) Geometry would be relaxed, not aggressive. STA and HTA would be 70° or 71°, and chainstays would be ~440 mm

2) I'd use a Shimano Nexus 8 hub and cantilever brakes front and rear

3) Haven't seen anything like it, but believe it's one of those "everything old is new again" concepts

4) It's all about getting back to basics while exploiting recent advances in technology like eight speed internally geared hubs, lightweight high strength stainless steel tube sets, and lightweight component groups

I'd add that frame geometry should be traditional, with horizontal top tubes and gracefully curved fork blades

I see where you're going with that. It's pretty much my vision for my Redline. If I didn't already have the Redline, I'd be shopping for some Vintage steel to do the same thing.