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Hammering on the classic.

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Old 01-14-08 | 05:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by garysol1
The Bike:
1985ish Benotto/Columbus SL tubing
Campy SR deraileurs, 6 speed regina freewheel
Friction shifters.

Problem: When I put the hammer down the bike consistently down shifts, sometimes putting the chain between the cogs which makes for a very eye opening moment. What is going on here?
I have checked all the mechanicals. Dérailleurs have no play in them and shift perfectly. The levers are nice and tight. The freewheel has no play. Am I running into frame flex? Any other idea's on things I can check?
Assuming it is frame flex I guess there is not really much I can do or is there?

Do a search for "ghost shift" or "phantom shift". 90% of the time it's related to lubrication in the derailleur cable at the BB guide and in the rear turnaround casing. 8% of the time it's a problem with the keyed friction washer in the shifter not being keyed so much anymore. 1% of the time it's a cracked frame. 1% of the time you're just too big a gorilla to be riding that flexy thing without index or retrofriction levers. These are scientific numbers.
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Old 01-14-08 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by melville
90% of the time it's related to lubrication in the derailleur cable at the BB guide and in the rear turnaround casing.
did that today. have yet to try it out


Originally Posted by melville
8% of the time it's a problem with the keyed friction washer in the shifter not being keyed so much anymore.
Still feels nice and tight......

Originally Posted by melville
1% of the time it's a cracked frame.
First thing I inspected


Originally Posted by melville
1% of the time you're just too big a gorilla to be riding that flexy thing without index or retrofriction levers.
Hmmmmmmm
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Old 01-14-08 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso
In my experience, a bent DR hanger causes poor ****ing in some gears, not all. So you can get it to sit perfectly on the top gears, but it won't shift correctly all the way across the range.

[edit] Apparently, if you misspell "shifting" the censorbot will get you!
"eyeballing" the hanger is not enough, beyond that, "crosschain" it, small ring/smallest cog, if it jumps, then chain/freewheel non compatible as said and or one is worn too much. If it does stay engaged in the sm/sm, then look at the other stuff memtioned. to test the middle cogs, a method is to lock in the gear, using the adjuster screws, no not ask the cable to do anything, if the problem comes back, your freewheel is now a fishing weight, spare cogs? wrong decade to look, unless you are especially lucky.
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Old 01-14-08 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
"eyeballing" the hanger is not enough, beyond that, "crosschain" it, small ring/smallest cog, if it jumps, then chain/freewheel non compatible as said and or one is worn too much. If it does stay engaged in the sm/sm, then look at the other stuff memtioned. to test the middle cogs, a method is to lock in the gear, using the adjuster screws, no not ask the cable to do anything, if the problem comes back, your freewheel is now a fishing weight, spare cogs? wrong decade to look, unless you are especially lucky.
Awesome trouble shooting guide ....Thank you Thank you. I have your post saved and will use it as soon as the roads clear again
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Old 01-14-08 | 07:19 PM
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how worn are the pulleys?
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Old 01-14-08 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by onetwentyeight
how worn are the pulleys?
like new. maybe 800 miles since new
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Old 01-15-08 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by garysol1
Make that cable housing 2 1/2 inches longer.
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Old 01-15-08 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RK1963
Make that cable housing 2 1/2 inches longer.
Also, I went from an SR RD just like yours to a late 90s campy chorus RD and noticed a huge improvement in shifting.
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Old 01-15-08 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by RK1963
Make that cable housing 2 1/2 inches longer.
Are those metal housings still available? I really like the look of it.
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Old 01-15-08 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by garysol1
Are those metal housings still available? I really like the look of it.
I'm speculating that if your RD cable were longer, from chain stay stop to entry into the RD, your shifting problems may resolve.
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Old 01-15-08 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RK1963
I'm speculating that if your RD cable were longer, from chain stay stop to entry into the RD, your shifting problems may resolve.
I am going to lengthen the cable and use a longer housing at the deraileur. Hopefully that will help along with all the lubing I have done.
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Old 01-16-08 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by garysol1
I am going to lengthen the cable and use a longer housing at the deraileur. Hopefully that will help along with all the lubing I have done.
Let me know if that helps----once again, I believe it will
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Old 01-16-08 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by RK1963
Let me know if that helps----once again, I believe it will
will do! Maybe a few weeks though before I can try it outside.
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Old 01-16-08 | 03:33 PM
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Disassemble, clean, and re-assemble your dt shifters. I thought that mine were tight as can be but, as it turns out, the pieces were somehow not perfectly flush and were allowing some slippage. It's easy to do, free, and will help rule out that problem.
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Old 01-16-08 | 03:49 PM
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My old Uniglide 6spd freewheel is real sensitive to rear wheel/axle alignment. Sometimes she'll skip (in the 2 lower cogs) when I horse down on'er with all my 210+ lbs, and I can almost guarantee that the axle has slipped forward on the drive side. Not much, maybe 1 mm if that, but enough to fool those wonderful Uniglide twisted teeth.

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Old 02-04-08 | 04:41 PM
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Took the old girl out for a 40 mile ride yesterday and did not have a single issue....YOOHOO!!!!
I took the advice to make sure the cable was clean and lubed especially below the bottom bracket. I did that as well as clean the chain and freewheel and lube it up real good. Thanks for the help guys.
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