I got a frame sent to me, and during shipping, the dropout adjuster screws (one more than the other) got bent. My first reaction was to grab a pair of pliers, but I resisted

I sprayed with triflow to get them lubed up, and have tried using a flathead screwdriver from the inside of the dropout with no success except a slightly rounded off head.

What is my next step?

-Kevin

First, straighten them out as much as possible, then apply the screwdriver, make sure it is one that is an exact fit. If they are beyond redemption, and you can screw them "in" further, you may also consider cutting them off inside of the bent area so as to reduce amount of crooked threads you have to back out of there.

Are we talking the standard "Righty Tighty Lefty Loosey" ?

Grab the bent end with pliers and slowly bend back?

I would let them go so to speak.... spray with liquid wrench and use the bend to your advantage... take a pair of pliers and use that to turn them and free them up.. then cut off the bent portion and unscrew them... or just leave them where they are. Your choice.

Leave them where they are sounds good to me. Looks like the wheel hasn't ever visited the rear of the drops anyhow...

Well, of course I had to fidget. The end of the really bent one broke off immediately. I re-applied lubricant to both sides, and will try to remove with the flathead screwdriver. Lefty loosey?

I had exactly the same thing happen with the Serotta "Murray" I got last November. I cut mine off with some angle cutters and then unscrewed and replaced them. The bent dropout I opened back up with a flat "nail bar" that you would use for prying siding and molding off a wall. Is your bike a Serotta? The detail where the dropouts are joined to the seat and chain stays really look like mine.

Thanks for the additional input vjp. The dropout doesn't appear to be bent thankfully as that part was somewhat properly packed. Frame alignment seems fine as well. The bike is a Woodrup (posted it in catch of the day)

Take care,
Kevin

Replacements if you want them: https://www.velo-orange.com/dradsc.html

try and bent them back; if they break, just replace. the little metal ends are the hard part to find these days.

hmm, just looked at the velo orange link, cool to know! i've had great service from them!

Don't throw away the part you broke off. I need one of the little knobs on the end for my Raleigh. PM me if you're interested in mailing the broken end off to WI.

Your Welcome Kevin, but your derailleur side dropout really looks like it is pinched shut a touch. It should be the same height at the opening as the back so that the top and bottom are parallel it should be about 11mm. When you drop the bike so that the adjuster screws bend (even while in a shipping box) it WILL close up the dropouts quite easily, especially the hanger side as it hits first.

I agree, the drive side is boinked. Now, remove the barrels, (with tape or leather to protect from the pliers) the steel barrel ends are what makes them more expensive to replace, buy replacements, off brand or Campagnolo with the plastic batray ends and plan the switch. I also think one or both of the adjusters screws on the spring side are tweaked, straighten the dropout(s), use a flat screwdriver to align the spring side of the screw(s), then run them in a bit (compressing the spring) cut them off file off, the burs with a fine file, run them out. Replace with new using the old barrel ends.

I removed the bent adjusters on my Raleigh and just left them off. It gives the chain more wrap on the freewheel, which makes the Campy NR rear D. shift better anyway, and there's no drawback to having the wheel further back in the dropouts that I know of. My bike is working just fine without them.

I apologize, as it is bent! I just pried it open to match the rear of the dropout, and the adjuster screw moves now. I did the same with the non-drive side, and got that one totally removed from the frame.

Thanks for the help everyone. Case closed

Actually your RD should shift BETTER with the axle further FORWARD in the dropout, but there may be some other factors that make yours seem to do the opposite. RD performance is affected by the relationship of the jockey puller (upper) to the rear cogs, and this is usually optimal when the cogs are positioned forward of center in the rear DO slot. I reckon that Sheldon probably has a good explanation with pictures on his website that would make more sense than my words can...anyway, my guess is that your chain needs shortening.