I've got a few frames I need to decal and clear coat, and since I enjoy the whole process and plan to be frame painting in the future, I'm going ahead and getting a compressor and detail gun. I've only rattle canned up to this point with provisions from Advance Auto and Lowes (uch).

What type of clear coat should I look for in liquid form for a durable finish over powder coat?

Sorry Dr. D - I did a search so I wouldn't have to bug ya on this one, but I couldn't find the answer.

https://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/kspclear.aspx

I'd order the quart kit.

Clean your gun with lacquer thinner from the hardware store.

I got this used on eBay for $40:

https://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...ty+Feed+System

I used Refinisher's Select by Sherwin Williams automotive. Worked really well, and all the auto forums gave it good reviews.

Just a warning, if you use this Kustom Shop 2K (meaning 2-part, catalyzed) urethane or any similar 2-part paint you REALLY need to wear a good respirator. I worked in a shop that ordered all our stuff from House of Kolor, and the directions were clear (no pun) this stuff is highly toxic compared to ordinary spray paint, don't fool around. I wish now that I had always used gloves and a face shield back then, too.

WWTDD? What Would The Doctor Do?

Your answer lies on page 2...
https://www.bikeforums.net/framebuilders/378844-powder-coating-advisor.html

or https://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...7&postcount=34 for short.

Dr. D uses 2 part catlyzed urethane, but he has the protective gear to use it safely. Read the MSDS and decide for yourself if you want to use it. I wear a respirator and goggles and gloves and paint in the open air and try to keep the overspray downwind from me.

Take it from someone who has painted quite a few cars. Unless you have an air-supplied respirator I would stay away form any "catalyzed" paints. The isocyanate's are very dangerous, just not worth the health risk. I could tell you stories but I won’t.

I would recommend Dupont Centari. You DO NOT need to add hardener (which contains isocyanate'). It is easy to work with and you can color sand it for a beautiful finish.

Yeah - I have a respirator somewheres but it's not the air-supplied type. This is fairly recreational and I love my lungs and various lymphnodes and all they do for me so I think I'll keep the toxicity to a minimum.

the one suggestion I'll make (that no one else did) is to SHOOT A TEST PANEL FIRST.

I can't believe how many autobody and custom painting forums have the standard "help! I shot clearcoat and it looks terrible!" posts because the OP did NOT shoot a practice panel first to see how the paint shoots, mixes, flashes off, etc,...

so take it from a painter with 35 years experience,...shoot a test panel first, THEN shoot your project bicycle,...even if you blow through an entire quart of clear practicing ($35-$50) it would be worth the time savings alone NOT to have to strip off the entire screwed up paint job, and start over.

even I shoot a test panel if I have never shot a paint type before, you'd be crazy not to,......but almost NO ONE DOES.

so, be different, do a GOOD job on your first try!

P.S. +1 on that centauri, or any quality acrylic enamel if you are concerned about isocyanate exposure. (which in your case would be minimal unless you painted inside, no ventilation, and no respirator whatsoever.)

He asked what type of paint to use, not how to use it.

I'll take all advice pertaining, thankyouverymuch.

Thanks again - Joe - you hooked me up with compressor specs a few weeks ago too. Good man.

I was tempted by the aerosol options you posted about a while back, but I figure with frames to clear coat immediately, and hopefully more junky restos to come in the future, I might as well jump in to the compressor/detail gun arena now, yeah?

2-part clears give wonderful results, but the fellas are correct, you need the correct equipment for your safety. Isocyanates are attracted to moisture (moisture helps them to cure). Problem is, most people think a simple mask will do the job, but it doesn't. The iso's will get into YOU through your skin and eyes. That's why a supplied air system, and the dopey-looking 'bunny-suit' are a necessity. Otherwise, you'll be breathing clean air through your mask, while your eyes and skin are being bombarded with iso's.

The pro to the catalyzed enamel versus the standard enamel is that the catalyzed enamel finish will be impervious to solvents used in the enamel, whereas the uncatalyzed enamel finish will be susceptible to these same solvents.

he's absolutely right, and again almost NO one protects their eyes and skin.

for a home setup with a detail gun and a small compressor, you can get away with a full face dust/mist mask (3M=home depot=$95) and a full paint suit and hood: you need to get a pro $40+ suit here, the cheapy hardware store versions wont protect well enough.

besides half the fun of painting in a getup like that is scaring the cat AND the kids!

it's kind of like: if you ask that question in the first place, I KNOW you have no idea how to shoot a coat of clear.

there is also a HUGE learning curve when using those types of paints for the first time, so I was trying to head off the future questions (which I KNEW were coming)

but thank you for that helpful suggestion, I'm sure he can paint the bike now after reading your post.

I'm flattered and hurt at the same time. Where are you Joe - I'm coming over for lessons.

What about your neighbors? What's protecting them?