OMG! Schwinn Score-Chicago Porn!
#26
Big Doofus
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GOOD GOD, MAN! That is a fillet-brazed super sport, made with butted cro-mo tubing, in beautiful shape. You can tell by the bullet-point seat stays and the tubular brake bridge in your photo (the EF schwinns had round-end seat stays and the bridge was made from rolled and folded sheet steel).
https://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y87...t=190_9046.jpg
You put that brooks back where it belongs!! You have a sweet prize. I've been searching for one for years.
https://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y87...t=190_9046.jpg
You put that brooks back where it belongs!! You have a sweet prize. I've been searching for one for years.
#27
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Here are some more detail shots of the SS:
Headbadge-notice only two holes, for the oval badge.
Rear hanger, keeping in mind that is not a stock derailleur:
Bullet seatstays:
Stock center-pulls:
Front fork detailing:
Seat tube: 27 mm.
Oh, and it weighs about 30 lbs. as-is, steel drivetrain and all
You don't even want to know what I paid for it, although some of you do if you saw the CL ad. Not that I'm gloating or anything.
Headbadge-notice only two holes, for the oval badge.
Rear hanger, keeping in mind that is not a stock derailleur:
Bullet seatstays:
Stock center-pulls:
Front fork detailing:
Seat tube: 27 mm.
Oh, and it weighs about 30 lbs. as-is, steel drivetrain and all
You don't even want to know what I paid for it, although some of you do if you saw the CL ad. Not that I'm gloating or anything.
#28
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#29
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So how hard is it to swap out that 1-piece crankset for a 3-piece? Or would that kill the retro vibe?
#30
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All depends on whether your perception of "retro vibe" is having that mag-wheel crankset on your machine. I retained the original on my '71 Continental, as the goal of that project was to revive this particular Continental to absolute original specs (with the addition of DT stainless spokes):
In my opinion, unless one is trying to retain the full originality or original appearance of a Super Sport, Continental, or Varsity, 3-piece cranks are fair game, even if you want a period appearance. The trick of retaining the period appearance is to avoid anything that looks like a mid '90s Shimano 105 crankset . Campagnolo or TA-knockoff cranksets would be ideal, IMO.
-Kurt
#31
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How do you think this would look?
This was salvaged from my '85 Trek 830 MTB, which was also burgundy (hmmm...)
I have the whole BB as well.
This was salvaged from my '85 Trek 830 MTB, which was also burgundy (hmmm...)
I have the whole BB as well.
#32
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It would certainly modernize it, but it is by no means a bad crankset.
You picked the wrong fellow to ask though, for I yanked this identical crankset (a Raleigh pantographed example) off of my '84 Raleigh Alyeska for the fact that I highly dislike it. The "wind" pattern looked ridiculous (and cheap) to me in the first place, and secondly, I always thought it looked akin to a a 5-point swastika.
-Kurt
You picked the wrong fellow to ask though, for I yanked this identical crankset (a Raleigh pantographed example) off of my '84 Raleigh Alyeska for the fact that I highly dislike it. The "wind" pattern looked ridiculous (and cheap) to me in the first place, and secondly, I always thought it looked akin to a a 5-point swastika.
-Kurt
#33
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I agree, it's not the prettiest thing around; it just happens to be available to me right now. I prefer a lighter look, like this:
That's what's on the Fuji right now. 42-52, and I'm finally getting strong enough for it.
That's what's on the Fuji right now. 42-52, and I'm finally getting strong enough for it.
#36
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With different rings, this would be ideal (price, of course, is ridiculou - traded one off to a BF member recently for about $15 in goods):
https://cgi.ebay.com/SUGINO-CRANKSET-...QQcmdZViewItem
-Kurt
https://cgi.ebay.com/SUGINO-CRANKSET-...QQcmdZViewItem
-Kurt
#38
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Hmmmm.....
Did you measure the seat tube of the frame or the seat post that inserts into the seat tube?
On my '66 Super Sport the top tube is 1.00"(25.4mm), the down tube is 1.125"(28.6mm), and the seat tube is 1.16"(29.5mm).
I would think that all the Schwinn fillet brazed chrome moly frames from the sixties and seventies would be the same, but I don't know that for sure.
Did you measure the seat tube of the frame or the seat post that inserts into the seat tube?
On my '66 Super Sport the top tube is 1.00"(25.4mm), the down tube is 1.125"(28.6mm), and the seat tube is 1.16"(29.5mm).
I would think that all the Schwinn fillet brazed chrome moly frames from the sixties and seventies would be the same, but I don't know that for sure.
#39
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the seat post itself. The actual seat tube is the same as yours, so that backs up your theory. So what should I look for when I go out hunting a replacement rear derailleur? The two free bike clinics near my house have TONS of old bike parts, and I'm reasonably confident of finding something period-correct, if I know what I'm looking for. Right now I'm thinking of doing a fix-n-flip on this one, but I have to get it rideable first. The rear rim is bent, the chain is slack, the rear brake is stiff, and it doesn't shift at all. I may not get to it before I'm out of school for the summer and have the time to work on it.
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BTW, the Brooks B15 was indeed the original saddle for the Super Sports of this vintage. They can be easily found on ebay for not a lot of money. They usually sell for less than the similar B17.
#41
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Suppose I wanted to do a stock restoration. What do I look for then, besides a straight Weinmann steel rim?
#42
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Not to butt in, but I believe the SS had alloy rims most years (Arayas?). Not that other things aren't possible of course.
I found one this Spring too. I like it. (here's "as found")
I found one this Spring too. I like it. (here's "as found")
#43
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I'm pretty sure that what's on there, except for the "Le Tour" rear derailleur, is OEM. The wheels have the high-flange hubs; maybe the higher line of Schwinns-the Super Tour, was it? Had alloys. If I decide to keep the bike, I'll do a BB conversion to 3-piece alloy, alloy wheels, alloy bars, and more gears if I can sneak them in. If I decide to sell it, I'll want to do an OEM restoration, which means also that the B-15 will go back on. What a delicious dilemma...
#44
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Just curious, as I don't see much of a point in Schwinn utilizing two different steel rims. Then again, they might have been wise to the fact that their S-6 rims were nothing short of trash.
-Kurt
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All of my S/Ss & S/Ts have weinmann alloy rims.
It was a real puzzler seeing the oval badge on a fillet brazed frame, but then I remembered reading about a non-catalog bike Schwinn assembled in the late seventies to use up all of the remaining fillet brazed frames, the Sport Limited.
https://www.geocities.com/sldatabook/...79sportlimited
If it is a sport limited, it should have a three piece crank and alloy wheels.
What are the first 2 letters in the serial number? Are there any decals on the top or down tube?
The rear dropout looks a little jacked-up, you should sell it to me.
It was a real puzzler seeing the oval badge on a fillet brazed frame, but then I remembered reading about a non-catalog bike Schwinn assembled in the late seventies to use up all of the remaining fillet brazed frames, the Sport Limited.
https://www.geocities.com/sldatabook/...79sportlimited
If it is a sport limited, it should have a three piece crank and alloy wheels.
What are the first 2 letters in the serial number? Are there any decals on the top or down tube?
The rear dropout looks a little jacked-up, you should sell it to me.
#46
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#47
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I dunno about the badge. I've never seen a sport limited besides this one.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/399703-schwinn-sport-limited-pics.html
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KofK's web site reference is the same spot I was going to suggest you take a look at. At that same web site is the 1971 Schwin Catalog.
https://www.geocities.com/sldbconsumer/1971/71cc1.html
Cool to look at - I have one of the '71 Racer models. (originally bought by my Grandfather in 1971)
https://www.geocities.com/sldbconsumer/1971/71cc1.html
Cool to look at - I have one of the '71 Racer models. (originally bought by my Grandfather in 1971)