Tubular Tire Sizing

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06-24-08 | 03:46 PM
  #1  
One of the bikes I picked up came with Wolber Profil 18 rims (super light 310-330 gram rims). After a bit of digging around I noticed that they were usually found on time-trial or specialty bikes. I have two questions about them:

1) What size tires are most appropriate on them? Do I have to buy 18mm tires? Can I go a little wider? What are my options (sorry if this sound dumb)?

2) Are these rims ok to ride on streets that aren't smooth as a track? Are they safe for taking out on a spin and using for training or would you really only use them for special occasions?

Guy
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06-24-08 | 03:58 PM
  #2  
Quote: Are they safe for taking out on a spin and using for training or would you really only use them for special occasions?

Guy
I was lucky enough (right place, right time) to pick up a NOS set of those laced to Campy C-record hubs a few years ago. Haven't tried them out yet since I haven't found a special enough occasion...but I would think that they are fine for road use since the triangular cross-section of the rim is stronger than the usual box cross-section. Having said that, I think that mine were also intended for time trials since there was a SunTour Winner Pro 5 speed straight block on it.
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06-24-08 | 03:59 PM
  #3  
Hey Guy,
You should be able to go to 21-22 mm tires. Just make sure that the tire sits well in the rim and makes contact all the way when it is fully inflated.

I use tubulars on the road occasionally. There are a few disadvantages with that, though.

1) You'll have to carry a pre-glued spare tire, in the event of any flats. If you do have a flat and have to use your spare then:
a) You have to pray that you don't flat again (or carry two spares).

b) You have to corner gingerly since the replacement will not be stuck well.

2) You can carry a patch kit, but that involves removing the tire, base tape and stitching; then patching the tube, and then reversing the process, followed by sticking the base tape and tire back on. It can be done.

3) Cheap tubulars tend to be not be round enough or straight enough. Good tubulars can cost a LOT of money.

4) You can run them at very high pressures, but you probably will not want to do that when just riding around.

5) Gluing tubulars is easy, but some people do not like to do it.

That said, I like them.
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06-24-08 | 04:08 PM
  #4  
Quote: Hey Guy,
You should be able to go to 21-22 mm tires. Just make sure that the tire sits well in the rim and makes contact all the way when it is fully inflated.

I use tubulars on the road occasionally. There are a few disadvantages with that, though.

1) You'll have to carry a pre-glued spare tire, in the event of any flats. If you do have a flat and have to use your spare then:
a) You have to pray that you don't flat again (or carry two spares).

b) You have to corner gingerly since the replacement will not be stuck well.

2) You can carry a patch kit, but that involves removing the tire, base tape and stitching; then patching the tube, and then reversing the process, followed by sticking the base tape and tire back on. It can be done.

3) Cheap tubulars tend to be not be round enough or straight enough. Good tubulars can cost a LOT of money.

4) You can run them at very high pressures, but you probably will not want to do that when just riding around.

5) Gluing tubulars is easy, but some people do not like to do it.

That said, I like them.
Great, so I can probably run 21-22mm tires. In a previous life I used to only ride tubulars until I crashed out of a crit on the final turn (will post pics someday). Clintchers since. I have since forgotten about the pain they provided me and now long for the silky ride. I forgotten about the tubular addage. One flat bummer, two flats screwed.

Guy
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06-24-08 | 04:08 PM
  #5  
I have the same rims which I'm going to lace to C-Record hubs for my de Reus.
I'm probably going to run a 20mm tire, maybe 22mm on them depending on what I have
laying around (stretching).

Marty
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06-24-08 | 07:48 PM
  #6  
Quote: Hey Guy,
You should be able to go to 21-22 mm tires. Just make sure that the tire sits well in the rim and makes contact all the way when it is fully inflated.

I use tubulars on the road occasionally. There are a few disadvantages with that, though.

1) You'll have to carry a pre-glued spare tire, in the event of any flats. If you do have a flat and have to use your spare then:
a) You have to pray that you don't flat again (or carry two spares).

b) You have to corner gingerly since the replacement will not be stuck well.

2) You can carry a patch kit, but that involves removing the tire, base tape and stitching; then patching the tube, and then reversing the process, followed by sticking the base tape and tire back on. It can be done.

3) Cheap tubulars tend to be not be round enough or straight enough. Good tubulars can cost a LOT of money.

4) You can run them at very high pressures, but you probably will not want to do that when just riding around.

5) Gluing tubulars is easy, but some people do not like to do it.

That said, I like them.
I'd like to comment on some of these comments. IMO, carrying 2 spares is not commonly needed, but is not difficult if you have a very long ride planned, such as if you carry a Barley bag. Plus, in-tire sealants can reduce the number of tire replacements, and get you home.

Field-patching of tubulars is IMO not thinkable.

IMO cheap tubulars (I ride exclusively on Conti Giros, Vittoria Rallyes, Servizio Corse, and Gommitalias) are adequately round, flat-resistant, and repairable. I had a set of classic Vittoria CGs on one bike, but the Rallyes run as well. I assume thta if I bought Veloflexes or (RIP) Dugasts for $200 a set I would notice a difference, but $150+ worth of benefit? Consider the value of a buck, we are Vintage cheapos, here, after all.

There is no reason not to use 23 mm or 24 mm tubulars on your Wolber track rims, that I can think of. Correct glueing is needed no matter what.

High tire pressures tend to enhance rim protection relative to lower tire pressures. With the low rim mass and hence strength, I would recommend tire pressures toward the high end. That said, best ride quality at high pressure (say 130 psi) will occur with narrower tires, not wider. Your optimum set up (note I do not say necessary setup) is probably a narrow 20 mm tire running at 130 psi. I might suggest a set of Tufos.

Road Fan
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06-25-08 | 01:51 AM
  #7  
what road fan said.

apart from the servizio corse from yellowjersey: i bought a set of three some time ago. they're ok for roundness, but flat easily. i've also had lots of trouble with sidewall damage on them, had to replace one from scuffing it in a gutter groove, and just literally popped my last one yesterday. fortunately nothing exploded until i was very nearly home (but i had just done 50 miles of climbing and descending in 40 degree plus heat). it was a spare that i had been running since i flatted my preferred evo corsa a fortnight before.

one flat bummer, two flats screwed (and 30 km to home going bump-bump-bump very slowly).
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06-25-08 | 04:42 AM
  #8  
Actually, I have managed to completely repair a flat on the road. I was a loooooong way from home, and riding solo when the flat happened. My wife was at work, so the only real way to get home was to fix the flat, which took me around 20 min. So it really is possible, though it is definitely NOT recommended.

Bear in mind that this was not the first time I'd fixed a flat, though the rest were done at home.

Field patching --- possible, if you don't have a choice.

About those Servizio Corse tires, are they really that bad? I bought 3 of them last week and am hoping they can be used for commuting.
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06-25-08 | 05:06 AM
  #9  
no, they're not that bad. they fit OK, they're fairly round, they just flat way too easily for me (but that's in comparison to kevlar belted stuff, which they just aren't). and the sidewall damage is partly due to road damage (dropped the back wheel into a one inch wide groove on the road), but the last one may have been from the thing living rolled up under my seat for a year or so... so i guess that's not fair thing to blame on them either. just never had much luck with them: i repaired a couple of them, though, both of the ones that eventually died from sidewall damage, so i suppose they last long enough tread-wise.
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06-25-08 | 05:29 AM
  #10  
Quote: Actually, I have managed to completely repair a flat on the road. I was a loooooong way from home, and riding solo when the flat happened. My wife was at work, so the only real way to get home was to fix the flat, which took me around 20 min. So it really is possible, though it is definitely NOT recommended.

Bear in mind that this was not the first time I'd fixed a flat, though the rest were done at home.

Field patching --- possible, if you don't have a choice.

About those Servizio Corse tires, are they really that bad? I bought 3 of them last week and am hoping they can be used for commuting.
You are good! I can't even repair a sew-up in 20 minutes at home at a comfortable table!

Actually I had no Servizio flats in about 150 miles here in Ann Arbor, but I just took teh bike up to Northern Michigan this weekend and had a slow leaker after a short excursion off the shoulder. It's flat, but I'm not sure yet if its due to debris or a valve-tube failure. I do like the ride quality of these tires, a little more supple than a Rallye or a Giro. But I think the Rallye has Kevlar. So this is my first flat of the season!
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06-25-08 | 08:29 AM
  #11  
Thanks everyone for your replies. Not to steer this topic too much off topic but where do you buy your tubulars? Do you have a set place? Do you wait for sales then buy 'em?
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06-25-08 | 10:01 AM
  #12  
Quote: Great, so I can probably run 21-22mm tires. In a previous life I used to only ride tubulars until I crashed out of a crit on the final turn (will post pics someday). Clintchers since. I have since forgotten about the pain they provided me and now long for the silky ride. I forgotten about the tubular addage. One flat bummer, two flats screwed.

Guy
Why ?? I always folded up 2 spares side by side and used an old toe strap to secure them under my saddle. 1 flat bummer, 2 flats bigger bummer, 3 flats screwed.
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