I'm repairing an old mid-50's Schwinn Traveler 3-speed (metallic forest green with the word Schwinn in eagle feathers - very cool!!!), as a favor to Mrs. Road Fan's workout buddy. I think it will need a headset. Don't care about NOS, but what are the requirements for headsets for these old Schwinns? Sheldon's site seems to say that BMX headsets will fit. Is this what he's saying? Is it correct? If you've found a replacement that works, please tell me about it.

I could also use a seat post that fits the original saddle, with a very narrow bracket.

Thanks in advance,

Road Fan

If it was mine I would rebuild it by throwing away the bearing retainers and fill the cups with as many balls as will fit minus one. With proper adjustment you will never have to touch it again. You will have about twice as many balls to spread the load. The good early 3 speed had a unique headset and I doubt you will find anything off the self that won't require modification. Roger

Since BMX basically got started with modified StingRays, BMX bikes adopted the Schwinn standard for headset sizing. So yes any 'old school' BMX headset should fit, with one caveat. BMX bikes and post '65 Schwinns used a 21.1mm stem, pre '65 Schwinns used a 7/8" (22.2mm) stem. As a result the hole in the top nut of a BMX headset may be too small for the stem on your Traveler. You may have to reuse the original Schwinn locknut or open up the hole in the new nut a little bit.

Rhenning's suggestion to use loose balls is a good one if the cups and cones are still in decent condition. But if not, any of the better BMX headsets would be a reasonable substitute for an original Schwinn. Hatta, Tange, and Tioga all made some very nice BMX headsets that were easily the equal of (if not substantially better than) the Schwinn parts. Unfortunately NOS vintage BMX parts can be quite spendy these days and would probably be more expensive than NOS Schwinn parts.

For the '60s Electro Forged Schwinns, what's now know as "old school BMX" will work. For mid '50s, I don't have a clue. Ebay has headsets for Schwinns. At $5-15, it might be worth it to try one.

thanks, all, that clears things up a bit!

Road Fan -- leaving to watch ebay ...

Anyone have the seat pin for this?

I give up what is a seat pin? Roger

I might have some of those parts in the basement but they're attached to an old Schwinn that I haven't had time to take apart yet. If you haven't found anything in a week or two, PM me and remind me to look at that. I should have it apart by then.

seatpost, seat pillar, the stick the seat gets stuck on?

Thanks, sailorbenjamin, that's a kind offer!

The seatpost you want will be 13/16", any bikeshop will have one for under 10 dollars.

The bearings and cups on this traveler I think should be the same as the varsity/continental. They can wear out, but most of the time they just need a cleaning and regreasing.

Got any photos?

Yes, I measured it, it's 13/16, but my local shops are all too performance oriented. Besides, the lady who owns it doesn't want to put extra $$ into it. I don't have a picture, but there was one on Ebay about 5 weeks back. I didn't find one on Bob Hufford's site. I want an old one, not clean and shiny - the rest of the bike has patina. Mechanically in surprisingly good shape! Good old Chicago Schwinn! I could even true the rear wheel with a spoke wrench!


I just started dismantiling the bars/fork. Can't see the condition as yet! The fork has play in the straight ahead position, but no play when turned 90 degrees. Not a sign of a headset in top condition!

Road Fan

I have an old Schwinn seatpost. PM me your address and I'll send it out next week. No charge for the patina! LOL!

Update time:

I think the seatpost problem is getting solved, thanks to Pastor Bob's generosity.

Headset is still an issue. I have it all apart, and all the bearing surfaces look amazingly good. Problems: the crown race spins on the fork (but the key lock works!!!), and the lower fixed cup does not want to come out. On a trial reassembly the fork still binds when I turn it 90 degrees from straight, and the bind point moves around. The fixed cup seems very flimsy compared to those on high-end bikes, and I think it's rusted in place near the alighnment key, while loose elsewhere. There is a gap between the bearing cup and the frame edge at the back of the headtube, that is not present at eth front (rusted) edge.

Due the welded-in alignment key I can't use a standard "rocket" tool to force the cup out, and I think I'll need a replacement anyway. For the crown race I think I'll see if the LBS is up on the knurling technique.

Anybody tried to get a Schwinn replacement for these parts?

The BB seems rough, too, but Harris has a Tange replacement available.

Road Fan

In regard to the BB, do you need bearings and cups?

I'm having a hard time visualizing your headset challenges. Could you take and post some pictures?

Road Fan,

Stop by, I *may* have parts around. I was going to call you yesterday, but got too busy, and then hit the hay.

I'll have to get back to you on the BB - it feels not too bad, but pedaling is jerky even after lubing the Sturmey-Archer and the chain. If it just needs balls, I'll buy used ones, but if it needs cups, I'll let you know.

We were out visiting the mother in law yesterday. I can swing by tonight after work?

Road Fan

Latest update:

I've test fitted several crown races and can't find one that fits snugly or shows the usual interference fit. I'm going to use the old one with some type of gap filling - Loctite 680 has been suggested, as has Mylar film shim, brass shim, and JB Weld.

Knurling or center-punching may help, but it seems like the crater edges could collapse or even fragment. Is steel "real" enough to hold up after all that?

This bike will not be used for hard riding of any type. Mrs. Road Fan's 64 year old exercise buddy is going to ride it to the gym and back and around town. This old 3-speed will be used as originally intended.

Any further ideas would be welcomed!

I'm getting a Wal-mart chain for the bike, and I will probably want some Schwinn-threaded BB cups or races, whatever it takes. I'll again use loose balls rather than try to get the original caged ones. Short of new rims and serious cosmetic work, that should bring this old Schwinn lady back into very usable condition.

See my answer in the bicycle mechanics section. Roger

Got it, Roger, thank you!