I will have to get back to you about the effects of silicone on leather (can't find good info by Googling): it may be more superstition than science, but I'm still not convinced enough of the benefits to risk the consequences. Either way, I don't want the quick shine nor the slip on my saddles, so it's moot to me.
"Neet" or "neat" is an olde English term for a bovine, so neetsfoot oil is oil derived from the hoof of a beef, or a cow if you prefer. (at least that's what I've read)

Here's a quote from https://www.leatherique.net/leathercare.htm:

Of course, you need to consider that they are trying to sell their product.

Sno-Seal:
WAX <65%
MINERAL SPIRITS 8052-41-3 <35%

Only a slightly-related query, but it's been really bugging me for ages.
Someone once described the British and the Americans as 'Two great races of people, separated only by a common language!' And there's my problem.

I understand that Campy=Campag, Fender=Mudguard, Brifter=Ergo lever (and what a great description Brifter is!). Can anyone help me with the English translation of "Mineral Sprits"?

Is it "Methylated Spirits"," White Spirit", "Turpentine" - or something totally different?

I'd like to add to my knowledge and this is getting in the way!

Thanks.

mineral spirit= white spirit (or similar to Stoddard's Solvent) AKA "paint thinner" or just "thinner"
Methylated spirits is what we'd call "denatured alcohol" and the de-naturing refers to the addition of something like MEK to prevent alcoholics from drinking it.

On the other hand, pure neatsfoot oil will cost $4.95 a pint and last a long time and it's about as organic as they come.
Fiebing has both pure and neatsfoot compound which has mineral oil in it. I'm not so sure I would use the compound stuff.

OK here,s the deal,I just restored a "Brook,s Professional" and I,m just dieing (pardon the pun) to share my experience with you guy,s , (1) one old saddle,dry and faded,(2) applied "KIWI" kids scuff self shining polish in black ,its in a squeezee tube with a sponge on the end ,let it dry overnight then re-apply,(I gave it 5 coats), (3) rub in "Linseed oil" (an old Aussie horse saddle maker told me to) will put moisture back into the leather,then (4) rub over with "Clear Dubbing" which I believe you guys call "saddle soap" ? then a good polishing with a soft rag and shazzam it,s done ! (hope this helps)

linseed oil comes from flax, lanolin comes from sheep, neatsfoot comes from cows...they are all organic, but i prefer the animal based oils.

No, saddle soap is soap and dubbin is a dressing, closest thing we'd have is shoe polish or shoe creme, actually I think Proofide is closest to a dubbin.

Put Proofhide on your saddle and ride it alot. No kidding. Riding your saddle will shine it like a new penny.

My leather saddle looks like a chesnut with a deep, dark, rich shine. Gorgeous.

For those interested, you can make an excellent leather balm by mixing neatsfoot oil and beaswax 50/50 by volume.

Melt the wax, measure, return to pan, add neatsfoot oil. Heat until clear and stir. It will cool and solidify to the consistency of lard or shortening.

The application meathod is similar to Snowseal. You can either heat up the balm and apply it to the leather, or apply the balm cold to the leather and then heat the leather up with a hair dryer so that the balm soaks into the leather. You can also place the balm coated leather in the sunshine on a warm day which melts the balm and allows it to soak into the leather.

I have used this for years on all kinds of leather including leather hiking boots. It does a wonderful job of protecting the leather and gives the leather a deep rich shine. It WILL darken leather.

I do use the sythetic neatsfoot oil (or maybe it is a blend). However, I use natural beeswax.

I have collected WW1 militaria for a long time, and the last thing to use on leather is Silicone.
It will ruin it.

FWIW

The saddle makers idea is what I would follow... seems to me that there isn't much difference between the brooks saddle and a horse saddle... except the horse saddle costs way more. I would guess that the saddle makers have a great idea of how to best care for the end product... My vote goes to the saddle soap and what not....

sounds like a voice of experience, i withdraw my recommendation.

A lot of Collectors of WW1 and WW2 stuff use the products from https://www.pecard.com.

Just stay away from the silicone based stuff the sell as well, for whatever reason, I'm guessing its all part of the "waterproofing" thing....

Be careful with linseedoils, as they will dry to a varnish, it really is a wood preservative, and was very commonly used on Wooden Rifle stocks, thinned with Turpentine. I would not put this on leather.

Neatsfoot oil is indeed very popular with the collector crowd as well, I use that and Pecards Antique preservers.

Sorry for late reply, i forgot about this post

^boiled linseed oil, yes: it's a varnish for wood (outdoor use and tool handles, mostly).
RAW linseed oil is another kettle of fish (mixing metaphors), used for oil painting as well as an ingredient in many concoctions. I haven't knowingly used raw linseed oil on leather, but maybe I have in shoe polish or creme and didn't know.
edit: I must correct myself (again!) raw linseed oil is also used as a wood finish but it's considered a very slow-drying oil and provides a softer finish than boiled oil, once dried (or cured). Raw linseed oil is used on leather, but I personally would not make it my first choice.

I'm thinking that 5 coats of that Kiwi self-shining stuff may eventually crack. I sure hope not.

My experience with leather starts with shoes and combat boots. Yes, long ago they were black and you had to shine them.

Treat the leather with organics to get it supple and to protect it from cracking.
Smooth the leather surface physically if it's really rough. Emory, stone, ultrafine sandpaper.
Easy on the dye, just get color into the leather.
Polish to add color depth and protect it. Layers of thin polish, don't go overboard.
Neutral to cover the colored polish, or you'll wear it.
Then ride to butt-buff to a shine.

I never knew that I wasn't supposed to use Neatsfoot oil on it until a couple of years ago. I guess the first 24 years of mistreatment have probably shortened its life...

LOL!!!!

Erasergirl certainly knows her stuff! I've learnt a lot from reading this thread.

Yep, she knows her chemicals.
I guess all the smart women are on C&V.

Smart women know that age and experience hold more value than new and shiny.

Easy, there. Some of us are old and faint of heart.

Hmm. I use sno seal and a blowdryer and have never had any problems. *shrug*

So is there any big box store that sells Neatsfoot oil? Or do I have to
go to EraserGirl, a Tack Shop (there is one in Acton MA not far from where
I work) or online? Would a well equipped hardware store have it?

I have an old Ideale that currently is unrideable and missing the tightening screw
so I have something to experiment with.

i should be able to find neatsfoot oil with any shoe supplies..do you have any shoe stores?

You should be able to find neatsfoot oil in a shoe repair shop. Probably in hardware stores, supermarkets, and drug stores, too. .

Really?
I would be happy if I could find shoe string in a CVS and the shoe polish would
be the type in roll on bottle. Same with a supermarket. Nothing in Home Depot
that I could find.