I don't know who would do such a thing but a decision was made and someone welded cable stays to this PX-10 frame. Its an atrocity. I almost didn't want to show anyone but the people have a right to know what goes on behind closed doors.






I think it's about a '75 model but the headbadge looks out of place, and im not sure why there is no threading in the forged dropouts for the hubstay.

Was there a hanger that was chopped off of it? If so, this one makes absolutely no sense - fixie hipsters who whack off their hanger are not the type to be overly concerned about having a rear brake - much less, permanently brazed-on guides for one.

I also note the seat lug has been torched - were any repairs done around that area? That would expain the top tube stops having been done at the same time.

What is more, the guides are located for right-front/left-rear brake routing. Interesting.

-Kurt

Not to mention the derailleur hanger has been cut off!

I think it has to do with the simplex hanger not not working with non-simplex derailleurs.

In other words, you think that these modifications were done by a hack-job roadie?

-Kurt

It's a shame.... I hope that the authorities have been contacted about this.... have the culprits been apprehended

I shed a single tear...

The top lug has been torched, it looks like one of the stays got re-saudered

Don't blame the fixters for the hanger. That was a very common "fix" in the day to mount a Campy derailleur with a hook.

Yeah, you can tap the hanger and file a stop, but most bikes shops did not bother to do a finese job.

Exactly my thoughts - if that stay had to be re-brazed, then the finish would be ruined one way or another - adding stops wouldn't make it any better or worse so (though it would modify its stock appearance).


Indeed, though would it be reasonable to assume that the top tube incident and the derailer hanger both occurred at the same time?

-Kurt

Whoever welded the guides on didnt understand that you have to use a better welding anode than the material to be welded. This explains the huge burn section that goes through to the other side and the orange peel finish of the reynolds around the welding.

The hanger cutoff, however seems very well done, exactly matching the profile of the left side dropout, with the only evidence being the corroded finish.

My unofficial opinion is that these are two separate events.

The headtube sticker was added at some point after a large round decal was removed (residue pattern).

Thank goodness it was only a Peugeot.

Not sure what you mean? Has a hole been burned through the tubing wall? Can't tell from the photos. Generally these stays are brazed on, not welded. The brazing torch will burn the paint but shouldn't burn through the steel tubing if done properly.

It is trivial to hang a SunTour or a Campagnolo derailleur on a Simplex dropout tab. (Been there ... done that with my 1980 PKN-10.)

Quite right. If you ask me, tapping and filing the Simplex dropout hanger properly is miles easier then it would be to file the bottom round of a butchered dropout without removing too much of the surrounding chrome. Not much different in either job, except that you have to break out the tap for the proper method.

-Kurt

I don't know if anyone noticed, but this frame has been ridden so much that the paint wore through on the top tube due to the rider's knees. I think it needed a paint job either way.

I also suspect that the cable guides were brazed on at the same time that the seat cluster was repaired. The top tube was brazed, not welded, the person who did it seems to have known what they were doing. In fact, it looks like one of my repairs. Brazing looks nasty before it is cleaned up, particularly if there is paint involved. If the owner had gotten it painted, it would look like new.

You guys would probably be mad with some of the repairs I did back in the '70s if you saw them now. People would bring me bikes that were broken and needed to be brazed, and I would fix them for $5. That did not include a vintage restoration, filing, or paint. Lots of bikes lose their rear brake bridge for some reason, probably because the French stop working at noon on Fridays or something. Not sure what I would have charged for cable stops, not what I would charge nowadays, that's for sure.
That being said, I am not advocating anyone cutting the hangar off of one of these.

That brings up another point: Since when did the PX-10's come in fuchsia? I rather like it - a PX with variety, for a change...

-Kurt

Sorry for the picture quality (cell phone) but the frame is orange.

No idea what I'm going to do with it.

Build it and ride it for thousands of miles.

Don't sweat the details.

Should have put bottle bosses on it at the same time - if they cared so little about originality.

another fairly common repair (back in the day) was to have a Campy RD tab brazed onto a bunged-up Simplex drop out, sort of a surgical operation: cut and splice. Campy even offered the tab as a frame-building item, or so I gathered from the guy who did it to my old Gitane TdF. I even opted for WB bosses on that one and on a Follis frame years later. The "logic" back then was: since you're going to strip and repaint, now's the time to get any and all braze-ons that your heart desires or could ever imagine wanting, and the price was cheap enough that adding a whole bunch seemed well-reasoned...braze-ons were cool and the mark of a high-priced bike.

Orange? PX-10 doing competition against Kool Orange Schwinn Paramounts

-Kurt

Gah, that's a hack job, alright. I'd don't normally advise repaint, but in this case, yes.

There were PXs and odd variants built with different paint schemes. Oddly, no one here has commented on the Nervex lugging on what, by the decals appears to be a post 1973 bike. This points me to believing the bike is either a repaint or a workshop bike (peugeot had a custom workshop from about 1973/4 on. Built the team bikes and special orders). Stock PXs from this period lacked the fancier lugs. It could also be a 1974ish PX10e, which did use the nervex but had steeper head tube angle than the standard PX. However, that bike was available stock in either blue or white.

I've seen one before. Come to think of it, the headtube of this machine is pretty steep...

-Kurt

he he!



don't know if i'd really trust the metal in a welded frame anymore, if it really was welded rather than brazed.

maybe OK if it was a TIG i guess. someone once told me that some kinds of welding are nicer than otehrs for thin steel parts, and don't do as much damage as they're so localised heat-wise (was it TIG? Can't remember). i'm no welding expert though, but still... seems weird to weld when brazing is much nicer on the metal.



and right-front left-rear is of course the ONLY way to run brake cables, surely?

the stops are arranged like that on my recent TCR, so they must have cottoned on to that in bike land at some time.

I dont have another 62cm frame to compare it with but here it is next to a 65cm