I picked up a frame off Craigslist earlier today. It was my size, nearby, and fairly priced (I think). The information I have is:

Eightys, Motobecane Grand Sprint Frame, TA crank, Atom pedals, Campy headset, Weinmann front brake, Shimano front d, No dents horizontal drops with adjusters. Replacement chrome end Reynolds 531 fork.

I have pictures of the frame here: https://densspot-randoms.blogspot.com.

I'm new to cycling and know nothing about this bike, so any information would be helpful. Also, suggestions for my goals in doing a rebuild would be helpful. For example, is it meant to be a racer? My initial thought was to convert it into a fixed gear... is posting that here tantamount to sacrilege?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Nice one, unfortunately, it appears that the steertube is too short! There is no locknut on there. I think it would make a sweet fixed gear, Those are nice looking cranks (if you want to trade them for a set of shimano 600EX arabesque let me know!).

Edit: I hate to say it, but it looks like the top tube might be bent from a frontal impact which would explain the fork. However, i think there will be forum members lining up to buy that fork from you.

The top tube looks kinked behind the headlug. Would explain the replacement fork.

Sorry to say this, but with exception to the fork and components, I think someone unloaded a bill of goods on you.

-Kurt

Depending on how much you paid there is significant value to the fork, headset (even though missing the lock nut) and the BB and cranks, especially if it is a french TA BB.

Also, be sure to use a proper TA crank puller so the threads don't get stripped, they are 23mm in diameter rather 22mm (the current standard).

It's already been significantly altered from stock, so I doubt anyone here would have a fit if you converted it to a fixed gear. One more steel bike still on the road, you know...

Some things to keep in mind: Motobecanes of that era used Swiss-thread bottom brackets, so you'll probably need to keep the present cups and just replace the spindle with one suitable for a fixed gear chainline. Either that or use a threadless cartridge bottom bracket.

As you note, the fork has already been replaced, but originally it would have had metric threading (25 x 1M). It's quite possible that a previous owner swapped the fork for an English thread fork to use a more readily available English thread headset. This would also eliminate the issue of a metric (22.0mm) steer tube, requiring a metric stem rather than the more common 22.2mm diameter steer tube.

IIRC, the "Grand Sprint" was an entry-level model with generic "sports/touring" geometry.

Can you ballpark 'significant value'? I've ridden one bike, changed little on it and never sold a single component. Thanks for your responses. Also, does the kink in the top tube 100% disqualify it from further use?

Thanks for the honesty

Well you could use it (not with that fork) but it might handle funny, it's probably not going to break or anything. I am really unsure of the value of all those parts but I would say somewhere from $100-200 all told.

Thanks it's nice to know the ruling on that. The common understanding here now seems to be that the frame itself isn't usable. I'm going to bring it into my LBS later this week to have it looked at closer before I even think about converting. Also, thanks for the back history on the bike. It's nice to know what's sitting next to me!

I'm not the Moto expert here, but based on a limited experience I'd say you might even have a French threaded BB rather than Swiss...that's what I've noticed with Motos and other FR bikes with those Nervar 3-pin cranks. As everybody says: the fork is the most valuable thing in the pics, and only of value to somebody with a different frame needing a 531 fork of that size.

The frame is still rideable. You just need to replace the fork. I am pretty sure that the Vitus frames are french thread.

Get a new fork and you should be fine. Tange makes a nice looking chrome replacement fork for not that much. Or you could seek out a used one. There is a buckle in the top tube but that doesn't mean it will self destruct on you.

The joy of steel is that you can ride cosmetic blunders, unlike carbon fiber. Your frame is not garbage.

The fork looks like it came from an early '70s Raleigh International. If there are still any shops in your area that can cold-set steel, that kink in front end can be pulled out.

I'd hit.. err, I'd ride it. Kink and all.

The consensus seems to be that it's French threading. I'll look at it (once I figure out how to tell the difference), but I think you're right. I guess I'll also be taking off and selling the fork.

A few have now said that the frame is still good but the fork needs to be replaced, and that it can then be sold. I'm not sure the reason, though. Why won't the fork work with this frame?

I'll ask around, thanks

1. Don't sweat it about doing the "right thing" with it.
2. Don't put $ into refinishing until you get a chance give it a test ride. The kink might be a big deal, but then again, it might not. It will take some $ and effort to get what you need to make it rideable, but you can either re-use, or recover expenses on most of it if turns out you can't use the frame.
3. If test riding proves it to be unsatisfactory, then consider whether you feel like trying to have it fixed or not - unless the idea of riding it like that is more than you can tolerate. In any event, I'd not pour cash into it until I removed that doubt.

The fork needs to have a steerer tube that's long enough to accommodate the headset as well as fitting in the head tube. If not, you won't be able to have the fork properly secured to the bicycle, and you'll be riding a time-bomb, if you can put a stem and bars on it at all. The consensus is - it is doubtful that the steerer is long enough for the size of your head tube.

Thanks a lot - makes sense. Also, thanks for the tips on how to decide whether or not to keep the frame. This is all helping me to plan out what I'll do. I'm also bringing the frame into an LBS today to have it looked at more closely - will post later to let people know what the outcome is

To add to that. You are missing two vital piece of the headset, the washer and the locknut. WIthout these the headset will just come loose (quite rapidly) as you ride the bike. So you need a fork that is about 7-10mm longer so you can install a locknut and washer. Any locknut and headset washer will do. The important thing is to make sure you keep the crown race if you sell that fork. The crown race is pressed on to the bottom of the stear tube, you'd need to take it to a shop and have them remove it or use a hammer and big flat screwdriver and be careful to go easy and switch front to back with each hit. You'll want a block of wood to rest the stear tube so you don't damage the fork for the floor.

And when you do get a fork and headset...Go for a stronglight needle bearing if you can find one or a Tange Levin. They are worthy of the price.

Selling the fork, you might be able to recover what you spent for the whole shebang. I'd recommend an ebay auction. Run it over a week and post a buy-it-now price that reflects what you'd really like to get for it. Find out what a new quality replacement steel fork would cost at your LBS, and as for a bit more. You just might get it from somebody restoring an old Raleigh.

Post at least two photos, showing the Reynolds 531 decal, some crown detail, some dropout detail, and the overall lack of damage, and list the steerer length and thread length so buyers are postitive about what they're bidding on. It'll show that you know what you're doing, too. Good luck.

I took the frame to my LBS today and spoke to the manager there, a guy whose opinion I definitely trust. He took one look at the frame and said he wouldn't ride it. So, I called back the guy who I bought it from and told him that the frame had been in an accident. He's buying it back from me and I'm moving on. I'll hang on to to all the useful info everyone's provided, though, thanks very much!