This is my World. It's a '85 I think. When I bought this it was to flip but it was in such nice shape I ended up keeping it. Now it's become my daily rider. It's a tank and I really should put some alloys on it but it rides so smooth like it is I jusk can't bring myself to change anything. I personally like stem shifters and don't think that DT's are a advantage. I think it's really a personal choice. Sometimes I wonder if it's really just a form of bike snobbery, but everyone's got an opinion,right?. No offense I hope taken. Anyway the World isn't high on the Schwinn lineup but it's a hellava workhorse and should be a great bike for you. And you got it at a good price. Some maintainence and it will be around for a long time.
I read somewhere that these are Giant built frames and the derails,brakes and hardware are sturdy units. Find a saddle that works for you and adjust the post hieght and bars for preference and have fun riding!!!

https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hwinn%20World/

None of it is my stuff. I just rent a room in the basement of the house.

JMO and YMMV but it looks like a low end Schwinn in very good condition, and would work out just fine if you replaced the tires/tubes, get all the bearings (BB, headset, and wheels) cleaned and relubed, rewrap the bars with Cinelli cork ribbon, and find a comfortable saddle. I base this on your intention to use it as a commuter. However, I suspect a little bit of closet bike mechanic trying to get out and thus trying to find a new wheelset. Whatever you do, you have a pretty nice bike for a small money!

geek

That wasn't cool.

After reading this post last night, I found a couple of Schwinn World's at the bike co-op I volunteer at Saturday mornings. So I grabbed one and started working on it.

As noted, it is a chromoly 4130 with heavy components. However, good alloy wheels. The total weight was only about 26-27 pounds, which is reasonable.

Overall, I was very impressed with the bike. It would be a great candidate for a "keeper" bike... something you could keep for years. I would see eventually replacing the crank and possibly moving the stem shifters up to bar-end. The frame is very good quality... not the most elegant lug work, but nothing to sneeze at. To me it seems like a frame to build on.

This would be a great bike for getting around town. I've worked on a lot of Schwinns and find that these Japanese or Taiwanese models are a lot nicer... much lighter and definitely worth upgrading.

It's supposed to rain here tomorrow, I'm going to try and start the disassembly and cleaning then. I'll post back with updates when I start getting things done.

Geekrunner- yes I'm a bit of a wrench, its been a LONG time since I've done much wrenching on bicycles though. Most of my current wrenching goes into my YZ450F.

I can't wait to get out and really try this bike out. I'm hoping it makes a good substitute for running. I'd much rather go for a 60 min ride on two wheels than go for a 60 min run to get/stay in shape.

Thanks to everyone who replied, I've already learned a lot and feel very welcomed here on bikerforums.net

"As noted, it is a chromoly 4130 with heavy components. However, good alloy wheels. The total weight was only about 26-27 pounds, which is reasonable."

I'm getting confused here now. From what I have read elsewhere the "World" was not a chromoly frames set and did not offer alloy rims. Am I wrong in seeing the "World Sport" as a step up in the linage and outfitted with lightweight items as opposed to steel rims and the such. I know both versions offered alloy cranks but doesn't the similarity end there?

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/56975-schwinn-world-traveler.html


The bike I worked on was a World and tagged "Chromoly 4130". It looked like a mid 80s bike. I've seen other Schwinn's from this time period, particularly the Tempo, which is a very nice bike... a little lighter than this "World".

Here's one I just rebuilt:



Yea, yea. I know. Stem shifters with aero levers.

I like it! Is the frame moly or hi ten steel? I'm dying to know what the break off is between the two. Ya know...Is a World with moly metal really a World Sport....? If not then what is the difference between two models?

Not sure. No markings on the frame as to what tubes are being used. My guess, hi ten.

+1

Those wheels are alloy. Unless they're bent, there's no need to replace them. I'd start off with adjusting the bar position, new bar tape, and a new saddle-- the saddle is going to be your most important upgrade, because you will need to be comfortable on it. Tune it, lube it, replace the tires and tubes, and true the wheels, and you're good to go.

You've got a good, solid bike in excellent condition, and for only $25! Congratulations!

Schwinn wasn't sure of they wanted the Schwinn name on these bikes, so they sold them as "World" bikes te first year. They were a success, so Schwinn slapped the Schwinn name on them. If the World is cromoly, I'd guess the Schwinn World is too.



Those aero levers make a nice upgrade. Stem shifters? Really, I don't see the problem. They'll be just fine for the OP's commuter.

My wife's World - I took the running gear and wheels off of a Super Le Tour.

The specs for both the World sport and World (87 models) are here - https://www.trfindley.com/flschwinn_1...0/1987_17.html

World Sport Chro-moly, the World Hi-Ten Steel. Yet the weight was not much different. ( I have a 80 Continental with alloy rims, weighs the same as my 73 Super Sport, both 34#s, and both ride great, smooth and straight)

The "World" name on many Schwinns from the early 70s on was used to help identify bike made overseas. The mid 80s was a period when Chicago was building less, the second plant in Mississippi were producing the name plated models, and yet Schwinn imported models to try to stay competitive with the demand for bikes also produced overseas, now including Giant, Fuji, and Panasonic name plate models.

Still the World had alloy rims, and some better than low end components at the time, yet likely better than many components or other brands.

Price break factoring started to play a major factor in bicycle marketing, and also competition from new start-ups, and do not forget the MTB interest.


FWIW, I like the World being discussed here and know it will be a good ride for the purpose the OP desires it to serve, and more likely even other duties. The White is sharp as well.

in the mid / late-80's, the world was hi-ten, the world sport was cro-mo main tubes. Full cro-mo frame started with the traveller. The serial number of the OP's bike starts with "G", indicating it was built by Giant. The lack of indexing makes me believe this bike was from '87 or so. I believe by '89, it came outiftted with indexing shifting. It was an OK bike, but if I had one, I wouldn't bother purchasing new wheels for it, I'd use it as is. I believe that the OP's bike has 5 speed threaded freewheel, meaning an upgrade to a 7 speed freehub will need to include cold setting the frame to accomodate the wider hub. And to the OP, sorry for not explaining, F.Q/R stands for Front Quick Release, pertaining to the front hub.

Also to the OP, one other thing I wanted to throw out was to take a look at the rear chainstays for a white sticker aprox 1/2" square that says "Giant" followed by a four digit number. If it's present, that's the date code that should also be stamped into the head badge (the numbers that should be in the head badge are very tiny).

Still a nice bike for $25.

GregG

I just found the numbers in the head badge. 1017, so it was built in 1987 correct? You guys weren't kidding, those numbers were stamped very small and very lightly.

I re-greased the front hub and installed a new tube and tire last night. I hope to conquer the rear wheel soon. Do I have to take off the cassette to lube the bearings? I would assume that I would have to, and I also would need a special tool to do so correct?

Thanks,

Ace

Hey, Ace-

It's presumably a freewheel, not a cassette (which goes on a freehub), and yes, you'll need a special tool to take it off. It's possible to repack the bearings without taking off the freewheel, but it's easier w/ freewheel off (getting the cones properly reset after repack is the hard part if you don't remove freewheel).

There are several different freewheel remover tool standards. So, if you want to take it off, you'll need to take it to a bike shop or coop, or buy your own tool (take the wheel with you to the bike shop to get the right tool if you want to do that--or post a well-lit pic here and folks will tell you which tool).

Eric

1017 = April 11th, 1987. Yes, you will need a freewheel removal tool, if it's the original wheel. You also need to know which one you need. If you plan on working on bikes in the future, you might consider buying one (bring your rear wheel to your LBS, and they'll tell you which one you need), if not, bring the wheel to your LBS, and they can take it off for a couple of bucks (you don't need a tool to reinstall it).

Freewheel removal tools are cheap, like 5 bux. Its a good thing to have in your toolbox and its an easy thing to do.