I have an original, early 80's Univega Competizione (fork and frame) that needs to have the headset replaced. Pitting and grinding are from the originally installed headset. Since I'm quite new to all this, I really enjoyed partially dissembling the headset to find the races in a condition (pitted, irregular grooves) that called for a replacement. I look forward to repacking the (still good) bottom bracket into a tough-as-nails, newly-powdercoated frame.

My plan is as follows: today I'll have the only LBS in the area with the appropriate tools remove the head/crown races, rather than pay to have it chisled out, or do the tapping myself.

Following that, I'm going to bathe the inside tubing of the fork and frame in oxalic acid, and neutralize with baking soda solution. While it sets I'll schedule and appointment for the color.

Then to the Powdercoater. There will be no hardware on the bike whatsoever. Is there anything I need to know other than making sure the threads are taped off? Should I concern myself with preventing any powdercoat from covering the fork crown and head tube areas where the races will be affixed?

Next, I'd like to (have the LBS) replace the 20+ year old headset (do Tange Falcon HS commonly last this long?) with a 2Nut Chris King. Yes, it is %89.6 overkill, but it's time to replace the headset anyway and I don't want to have to worry about it. I don't want to install any of the CK HS races BEFORE the powdercoating because I'm concerned with what the heat will do to them and I know that area will (PROBABLY ???) need to be taped off anyway. As I understand it, the CK 2Nut should work on my JIS 1" headtube, plus allow for some spacing. Does anybody have any experience with this or wish to provide confirmation?

Recommendations? Contingencies? (Prudent) Warnings???

Your powder-coat guy will not want anything on the frame so installing headset races is a bad idea. It should be nothing but the frame and fork.

An oxalic acid bath may not be necessary either as many powder coat places will dip the item in their own acid bath to get out any substances that could screw up the process. A glob of grease in a tube would ruin the entire process so many of the better places won't chance it.

You should also clearcoat the frame once it is back from the powder coaters. I used some Krylon clear coat that is made for plastics and it worked really well.

I believe that if you take it to a powdercoat shop that does regularly motorcycles, they should be able to strip the paint and do everything right. Motorcycle frames are not that different from bike frames except that they are bigger and they have even more doo-dads and threaded holes. The motorbike customers are probably just as demanding too.

I had an old bianchi powdercoated and was nervous about it until I walked in the shop and saw a number of gleaming motorbike frames all perfectly powdercoated that had been carefully masked in all the right places.

Yes, the headset goes in after the paint, powdercoat, etc.

And yes, it isn't unusual for any reasonably decent headset to last 20 years. This is the part I don't get about the Chris King fetish, you ask guys why they're spending all that on a headset and the answer is how it'll last forever. They all last forever. Yeah, not all are quite as well sealed, those need fresh grease every dog's age or so. For a 5 to 1 cost differential I'll repack some bearings after the presidential elections. I have exactly ONE headset that has failed to hold up for decades and it was previously owned by a crack head and then the crack heads dealer, then an incompetent mechanic mis-adjusted it and I mis-adjusted it and then a mechanic at a race moments before the wave off mis-adjusted it. That's what it takes to hurt a conventional headset, crack-heads and morons. CK isn't gonna survive that either.

</rant>

You might want to get the frame headset and BB faced by a shop that knows what they are doing after painting. That goes a long way in the bearing adjustment department and makes a huge difference between "Ok" and "Swwwweeeeeeettttttt". Another thing we always did prior to build (along with the facing) was to chase all the threads for everything and slightly hone the the seat tube. All overkill probably in some eyes but man it made the build go nicely and the results afterwards were always spectacular.

Just tap the old cups out with a hammer and punch if you are pcing. It is not worth the cost.
Install with a rubber mallet or a block of wood and just tap slow when the of is done.

Why rattlecan the powder coat?

Ooops, I should have clarified that---a clear-coat on top of decals must be done with a clear-coat that is intended for plastics. I have used a regular automotive clear-coat and it didn't stick. In fact, it peeled off almost immediately but thankfully, the decals were unharmed. I think that this may be dependent on which brand of powder-coat is used, but I am not 100% sure.

I've also been told that powder-coat is slightly porous and that water can get in under the coating. I don't really believe that but it probably wouldn't hurt.

Lastly, if you have to remove a powder-coat, use an automotive gasket remover.

Thanks for the replies folks. I wrote an in depth review of what the LBS tech did and what my plans consist of, but the ether repo'd and sucked it into the obscure web-regions. In any event, cheers. Thanks for the dropping the knowledge.